For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

I feel qualified to comment on this issue, as we had a similar problem occur in our build with respect to the finish carpentry. To make a long story shorter, the trim carpenter did a horrible job - placing way too many nails in the trimwork, many unnecessary holes in our closet walls, and putting on chair rails upside down, etc. The excuse was that since our trimwork was to be painted, all of the nail holes (sometimes over 30 in a 5' piece of trim) could be puttied and covered. But it was so bad, and our painter wasn't happy about having to do all that nail covering work. So we insisted that the trim be replaced where needed and attached properly to the walls. Painted trim is not an excuse for shoddy workmanship. We thought we would encounter some resistance with our builder, and initially, we did, but once they saw how bad it was, they ordered a new trim package and fixed all of the problems, including recutting all of our poorly cut window ledges. We asked that the original trim carpenters not come back to do this, and we are now very happy and very satisfied with the replacement work. If you don't ask, it won't happen. We are not "picky" people, and we do not wish to engage in unnecessary whining and complaining, but consider the fact that you have paid a lot of money for this and that it is not what you asked for. Your builder is responsible for the work of his subcontractors. I hope that you can get the issue resolved. When subcontractors are working with such expensive materials, they need to be careful and professional in carrying out their work. Jan

Hi Sooz -- I happen to love the kind of tile you had; I grew up in a 30s house with strongly-colored tiles in that pattern carried around the room. So while there are many, many options out there I sure wouldn't rule out a variation on the theme. One thing re your window -- have you really checked to make sure there's no rot around the window or into the walls? Because now would certainly be time to replace things. We're wrapping up our bath reno so I do have some photos of what we did plus a few inspiration photos I can share -- none are exactly what you're looking for but some have the elements you mentioned. If you're committed to just keeping the tile in the shower/tub area vs carrying it around the room, I think keeping things simple is probably best. Simple can be serene and gorgeous! Good luck with your project! 6x6 Tile on the diagonal (inspiration pic) Think this is 4x4 field, with grout blending in (inspiration pic) Contrasting grout (inspiration pic) More rustic approach to grid, with wide grout lines (insp. pic) Know it's tough to see -- white 4x4 grid, window (insp. pic) ********** My bath, Before shot (ceiling dropped to 6' over last 1/3 of tub) My almost-done bath (1905 house), done in DalTile's pale yellow 6x6 in a running bond vs grid pattern My bath, window area -- we removed double-hung and did a tiled-in aluminum below, awning window above

Yes, the plumbing needs to be done first. Yes, you may be able to just get another acrylic shower wall to cover over everything, if the wall is not moldy or wet behind the tile that you are looking at. There is no need to replace the tub itself if it is in good shape, even if you do decide to take down the wall tile and replace everything from the studs out. Just make sure the workers cover the tub well to protect it while the work is being done. I am with Monicakm_gw, get some more bids for the work. You might want to have them bid on just replacing the walls with new fiberglass, and on doing the whole new tile job, too. You can see new walls at Lowes, Home Depot, and Menard's online. There is also the whole Marbleite wall option to look into. Local dealers for Marbelite are supposed to be cheaper than buying from big box stores, if I remember right. While you are fixing plumbing, you should probably put in a proper mixing valve to protect from scalds. It is the code now. No one will be able to turn the water too hot to burn themselves and flushing the toilet or using the water elsewhere in the house will not burn the person in the shower anymore, either. I have read the experts here on the forum say that the Symmons Temptrol system is very good and is a good value. Here is one that comes with the shower head and tub spout for under $100. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Symmons-Temptrol-1-Handle-Tub-and-Shower-Faucet-in-Chrome-S-96-2/100643619