You have valid concerns and we take extra measures to acommodate steam vapor escape by treating the ceiling and/or adjoining painted surfaces outside the shower with usually an oil based primer and sometimes topcoat of paint . Steam rooms require a few things to be just right and if so you shouldnt have excessive release of vapor. Starting with the proper sized generator for the "adjusted cubic ft" A proper glass install with the acceptable tolerances ( we use sweep and bulb gaskets to compensate for minor inaccuracies and zip our steam showers up and then utilize the transom.) A transom smartly placed in relation to the Fan that also needs to be the proper CFM for the room and other hvac concerns,. Our fans are always on a timer, and preferably jumped on the same circuit as the showers interior light. You want the fan on from the start of the shower and remaining on for 30 +/- mins after you get out. I always suggest opening the transom and swinging the shower door IN to the shower when done. On this steamer ceiling we used the existing bathroom fan and planned ahead and had the painter coat our cedar install with sikens marine grade topcoat. Hope that helps a bit in your effort to rectify your concerns.-best

Glass is not smooth when viewed under a microscope, it's actually full of dimples and pits. That's where lime and other minerals can build up. You can order your shower glass with a super glossy coating that's applied after the glass has been tempered. The coating fills the dimples so lime and other minerals have nowhere to hold on and run off with the water, so your glass will stay clear longer. I your glass is coated, do not use acid based glass cleaner such as Windex etc., repeated use will remove the coating. Personally I'm glad we have the coating. Our MB shower glass is as clear as when we bought it, 8 years ago. DH is in a hurry in the morning, so he usually doesn't use the squeegee, while I do. The coating let's you get away with intermittent use of the squeegee. But don't skip too many times, Lime eventually will build up despite the super glossy surface and once there, it's really hard to remove without an acid-based cleaner, in fact it takes lots and lots of elbow grease. Best to not let that happen, and clean at least every other time. I was given a half a dozen specialty shower glass foam spray cleaners by my installers, Well, in 8 years I've only started using one of the bottles. The last time I used it, all I did was remove dust and finger prints on the outside of the shower glass.

Thanks for the input. I just measured my master shower door and it's 28.5". I think I will plan for a 26" door, swinging inward and outward. I like the idea of the pony wall being a little bit longer and just leaving the 26" space for the future door. My contractor is very thorough and will be sure to block for a door and grab bar to be installed in future if desired. Definately will put the controls in the pony wall like we did in master. The depth of the room right now is 64" from the current finished shower tile to the wall. So without encroaching on the 30" space for the toilet, we could get a 34" depth shower. That's still pretty small, but don't see a way to make it deeper without expanding the scope and $$ by stealing space from adjacent attic. If money were no object we would look into doing that. I'll ask the contractor about it, but I don't think budget will allow.

Hi, did you do this? I'm debating acrylic pan or tile floor and would like a frameless shower enclosure/door.