Help Please! Pedestal Sink plumbing roughed in about 1" too high....
mlankala
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chispa
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need help with sizing a pedestal sink
Comments (7)I changed from a 24" vanity to a 26" pedestal. (To be honest, I measured so long prior to ordering, I didn't realize I was ordering a larger sink. Oops.) You want to make certain you meet code with the distance between the sink and the toilet. I believe 30" is the building code (though someone with actual professional experience is welcome to correct me). Other than that, you should take into consideration the location of your plumbing (and whether you can move it), how close to the wall you want your sink, and whether your walls are square. I ended up moving my plumbing slightly in order to meet the specifications of my pedestal sink. Because a pedestal sink exposes more of the wall underneath, having the plumbing neatly tucked behind the pedestal (as much as possible) is nice. I also chose to have a mostly 1" gap between the wall and the sink because the wall is not square. This was a powder room (can't recall the dimensions off hand) and I used 16x16 set on the square. In my opinion, larger tiles (12x12+) can add a feeling of spaciousness. But, I also like small mosaic-style tiles. It's really just a personal preference. You could look for inspiration pictures (such as on sites like Houzz.com) to see different sizes of tiles and how they visually impact the appearance of the room....See MorePlease help me shop for plumbing accessories
Comments (10)All waste & overflow kits that are listed with maximum dimensions are the slip joint type which have telescoping pipes for the drain and overflow riser with a compression type slip joint to adjust the size. The tub you specified is a built in tub, which means the waste & overflow kit will ultimately be concealed under the tub once everything is complete therefore even if you do find a waste & overflow kit listed for the dimensions your looking for it will do you little good when your Plumbing Inspector hangs a red tag on it for being code prohibited. The Plumbing Codes strictly prohibit using compression joint type waste & overflow and P-traps unless you will ultimately have a dedicated 12" x 12" service access panel either through an adjacent wall or up from underneath. For a concealed location you are required to use a glue-in type or if you insist on brass, a solder-in type waste & overflow kit. Personally I fail to see what advantage you might gain from insisting upon a brass waste & overflow in this application. While some people might be lulled into the notion that brass will last longer than PVC, in the real world such is not the case. The brass waste & overflow kits are constructed of DWV grade thin-wall brass tubing which is notorious for corroding through in 25 to 30 years whereas the PVC type are impervious to the acids present in DWV piping and have a nearly indefinite service life expectancy. In addition, the brass waste & overflow kits are about $150 whereas a PVC glue-in kit is generally less than $20. Of course you could get a brass solder in type kit for about $130 to $175 and an additional $50 to $100 labor for installation. The PVC waste and overflow kits principally have three main components; 1. The cast "overflow body", which is the PVC casting that fits behind the tubs overflow hole. 2. The "Tub Shoe", which is the female threaded casting that fits directly under the tub drain hole and into which the tub "Drain Basket" is screwed into. 3. The Tee. The pipes which connect the overflow body and the tub shoe to the tee are supplied by the installer from 1-1/2" PVC stock pipe an custom fit to length. The kit also contains a brass drain basket, brass overflow trim cover and whichever stopper assembly you might desire, whether it is a toe-tap, lift & turn or a lever lift type. The Danze-D490637RB you mentioned above is not a waste & overflow kit, but rather it is a waste & overflow "trim kit", which only contains the overflow cover, drain basket and the lift and turn stopper. It has no pipe or fittings to make the connections below the tub however, The dimensions of the trim kits is an industry standard, therefore you could go to your local hardware or home supply and purchase the cheapest PVC "Glue-In" type waste and overflow kit they have, then you could use the PVC components but discard the trim-out components and replace them with the Danze trim out kit and you will ultimately have the correct waste & overflow to meet code, complete with the "oil rubbed bronze" finish you are looking for all for about $75 in total....See MoreDWV Rough In Plumbing Help
Comments (2)Wet venting a toilet is just asking for trouble. I have no scale to judge from, but your red vent line is far from the WC. You should take a 2'' vent up the wall adjoining the water closet. You will be happy you did. It is open now. Do it right. You can backfill the soil pipe with sand or with the gravel. Just don't let large rocks lay against it....See MoreConverting 2 sinks to 1? New house, plumbing roughed in.
Comments (16)Our plumbing cost was $420 to change from two sinks to one. An additional sink, faucet, and sink cutout by the fabricator would have been at least that if we had replaced our original two-sink vanity with the same setup. The offset single sink option is cheaper as you'd only have to cap off the second drain and water. You could do a double light over the sink and the counter so there'd be no need to change your electrical boxes. I considered the offset option and have several photos in my Vanity and Mirrors Ideabook....See MoreJ Sk
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