Tips for front yard landscaping, plants and trees zone 6
Dan
2 years ago
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cecily 7A
2 years agoDan
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Please offer suggestions: Best yard trees in Zone 6
Comments (25)Hi amanda_t, from a fellow Kentuckian. I currently practice here in Scott County and in Louisville. I've lived and gardened in Nicholasville, Versailles, Lexington, and Paris. Which best approximates where you are in KY? You mention you occupy a "large urban lot." Give us an idea of what that means (since in NYC that could be a 1000 square feet): 1/4 acre, 1 acre, 2.5 acres? Lexington has quite a few properties near the middle of town with 5 acre parcels. If you have a 100+ year old ginkgo, do everything you can to preserve/protect that youngster against all potential damage from new work you intend. That is a plant to treasure. All that said, here's what I'd offer based on your initial set of likes: Beeches: There simply is nothing to match the grace and beauty of an American Beech (Fagus grandifolia) in most seasons. While it is not my favorite large shade tree, I can see where it is one to invest in and love for life. Much of my career in Louisville revolves around managing the historic and wondrous landscapes of the old parks that are blessed with fabulous specimens and thick forests of American Beech. Don't "settle" for an import. Maples for fall color: There are many native species (Sugar and Red Maples already mentioned) and myriad introduced species (Acer griseum, Acer triflorum, Acer palmatum, Acer henryi among them) that offer stellar fall color. Decide which category (large, intermediate, or small) that you'd like to invest in. None will be immune to ice damage; that is easy to observe around Lexington and Louisville. Catalpa: I agree with you on this one - it is too seldom used for its bold branch architecture and impressive leaves/flowers. People focus too much on "litter". I defy anyone to identify a tree that doesn't drop something at sometime. Biases indeed... Crabapples with pretty flowers: There are numerous excellent selections in this category. Pretty flowers are a given. Consider only selecting the highly disease resistant forms, and then decide if you want white, pink, or reddish flowers. Forms can be interesting, from the standard big rounded trees to erect, pendulous, weeping, and dwarf. Finally, the best combine all the above choices with small persistent fruit. This provides winter-long interest until spring leaf-out and/or arrival of the hungry robins to strip them. If you are serious about this species, I can provide a separate (long) list for KY. Redbuds and Dogwood: These are never bad choices. There are numerous fine performers for KY. Trees with wide stretching branches or shapely branches: Hmmm. This is hardest to answer, since it is rather open-ended. I'll second the votes for Nyssa sylvatica and Picea orientalis. These are two that there can't be too many of. I'll offer some tree ideas that haven't been mentioned previously above. Cercidiphyllum japonicum, esp. 'Amazing Grace' Gymnocladus dioicus Carya cordiformis Ilex opaca Abies nordmanniana Quercus michauxii Ostrya virginiana Franklinia alatamaha Halesia diptera esp. 'Magniflora' Viburnum rufidulum Asimina triloba Chionanthus virginicus Cladrastis kentukea It is interesting that no one above asked you what the site was like that you garden on. Some of the suggestions are outstanding - provided the growing conditions are good for that plant. Depending where you are in KY, white oak may be a rather poor choice. It doesn't occur often in the inner Bluegrass region, preferring instead the somewhat more acid soils surrounding this area. The favored trees of the Bluegrass landscape include Quercus macrocarpa, Quercus muehlenbergii, Quercus shumardii, Gymnocladus dioicus, and Fraxinus quadrangulata. I do and would continue to plant any/all of these (and spit in the eye of EAB)....See MoreAdvice Needed - Ornamental Tree for Front Yard (zone 5)
Comments (12)I made a really stupid mistake, and I'm very embarrassed to have to post my experience but could use some advice (so please excuse my poor decision). I found a handyman that offered to move the red maple tree in the front yard to the back for the bargain price of $75. The only thing is that the tree had a monsterous root system, and he had to move it with his truck and a rope around the trunk. The bark scratched, which I didn't think was a big deal...and he said he thought it would be ok...until I researched on gardenweb after he left. The tree is very scratched, circling 75-80% of the tree's circumference, so it may take years, but the tree won't make it. I called him back to tell him that the tree would eventually die/break and he felt bad and offered to plant another tree for me. Last week, after my initial posting and reading the feedback, I ended up purchasing an autumn gold ginko (it's not planted yet and is actually still at the nursery). I had every intention of getting a kousa, but I'm just not seeing any that look good in the nurseries (and I've been all over in two counties). Plus I'm finding most are no-name varieties. Plus the branching structure starts out low -- just 14" from the base, so while it's a tree, it's a low branching tree (and I guess I'd prefer a higher branching tree in the front yard). I'd like to try a kousa if I can find the right spot, just not the front yard. Sorry, I'm being particular, but I'm trying to make the right decision that dh will be happy with as well. I realize that the ginko will get 40', but it's such a beautiful tree, so I figured that perhaps I would put that in the front. In lieu of what happened, and as much as I love the ginko, I'm thinking that I should plant the ginko in the back yard where the red maple (the only tree in the backyard) had been planted. I'd also like to get a Blackgum to put in the back yard (maybe next year, or this year if I can find them on sale). One of the local nurseries has a serviceberry tree that is $259 -- a nice tree, but out of the range of what I wanted to spend (I'd love to wait for them to go on sale, but I'm not sure when that will be and if they will still be around). THIS YEAR: I really need to have a tree in the front yard (part of the agreement I made with dh when I told him I was moving the front tree). Should I plant the ginko in the front yard or will I regret it when it gets too large? OR Should I plant the ginko in the back yard and get a smaller tree for the front (as per my original plan, but I just haven't found the right tree for the front in my price range). On a good note, my dh did not say "I told you so" or anything to that effect, but I do feel like I'm in an "I Love Lucy" episode at this point....See MoreSuggestions for a zone 5/6 front yard tree
Comments (4)Hello fellow St. Louisian, I'm over on the North Side of the County but have an older house with different soil and limited wind exposure. Bradfords and their close are hated by many but useful for temporary trees. Are your power lines buried like is the new style? Would something like (but maybe not) the Amur Maple I put up a link to seem right in that spot? I picked it because: I've seen a few in parking lot islands this fall looking excellent, one site claims good wind tolerance for them, if they grow in parking lots they probably will tolerate your soil, they don't get so big. That's important in this case because EVENTUALLY someone is going to need to dig up that pipe or power line and if that happened 4 feet from the big oak in my front yard I'd be real worried about the big fella's chances. With a smaller maple cost of replacement would be limited. Here is a link that might be useful: Amur Maple at Hort.uconn...See MoreNeed ideas for flowers/landscaping for my tiny zone 5 front yard
Comments (8)Based on your last picture, I would begin removing lower branches from the tree in an attempt to regain a view of the house and so that lawn can be maintained easily below the tree. To not remove lower limbs encourages the upright oriented limbs to become future trunks and compete with the main trunk. Not that that is bad in and of itself, if that's what one wants. But it often results in a trunk formation that is less attractive when trunks branch below the canopy. (Unless it's a multi-trunk tree and then it looks best if it "branches" at the ground.) It's already happened and when allowed to go too far, is too difficult to correct without maiming the tree's appearance. Also, the one low branch on what looks to be a weeping cherry at left corner of house seems odd and out of place. I would get rid of the white gravel mulch and replace it with wood-based mulch. Plan so that plants eventually cover everything and there is no longer need for mulch. In my drawing I'm showing an idea for creating a landing off of the stoop. It's not a finished plan, but you could create a workable plan that improves the approach to the entrance. I'm surmising that the slab continues behind the hedge, in which case, I'd get rid of the hedge and all plants in front of it and bring only grass to slab ... the purpose being to make a welcoming entrance instead of a secret, purposeless hideaway. It is not necessarily the case that ADDING plants is the key to improving your property. The large shrub left of walk seems too close to the walk. If you can't relocate it to in-line with the window (about 4' from the wall,) I'd scrap it and get another shrub for that location. I'm showing only groundcover around the weeping cherry. It looks a bit junky to have those other plants coming up under it....See Morececily 7A
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2 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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cecily 7A