If you want a truly maintenance free garden I would suggest that you choose grasses that are REALLY drought tolerent or ..... plant all together groups of those that might require additional water. Miscanthus & Calamagrostis are not the happiest grasses when grown on really sandy soil in really dry years. Once established, pennisetums should do fairly well. Panicums, Little Blue Stem & a few others will actually excel in a location like you describe! Lavender would definitely be a good companion plant. You might also consider Perovskia and any of the Amsonias. I LOVE the kind of landscaping that you are contemplating - for ideas & pictures you should try & find a book called Bold & Romantic Gardens by American landscapers, Ohme & VanSweden. They do some fantastic things with grasses & mass planting. Another garden to look at is the John W. Nason Garden at Swarthmore College, Pennsylvania (the picture is from thier web site.) In the attached link check out the Darien garden & the Kendale Farm garden. Here is a link that might be useful: Ohme & vanSweden Garden Design

If it were me and I was going to redo the front walk I would just do poured concrete in an oval shape to mirror the bed around the trees in front of the house. That's the least maintenance. Yes, remove the yews, they should not be trimmed in an unnatural box shape for a home as natural looking as yours. Don't know what the tree is next to the yew shrubs, maybe blue atlas cedar or blue spruce? Either way, it is going to get big so you may want to move it now while you still can. It's a "specimen tree" meant to be viewed from afar, so I'd put it in the back yard, "afar" from the house where I could take it in while sitting on the back patio or looking out the back window. You could take out the front set of birches with two trunks, that is the one that blocks the view the most. I wouldn't do that, but I am a tree hugger. Where the yews and that blue green tree are, I would put some flowering trees or shrubs that would remain small, and maybe something that smells nice to greet me as I walked up to the front door. You don't say your zone, but it appears to be a 4 season area so I'd put in some rugosa roses (but that's just me) maybe mixed with hydrangeas. That's what I have in my front entrance way. Roses can get buggy, so if you want something even less maintenance, shrubby cinquefoil and low growing spirea are just about as easy peasy as it gets. "Knock out" roses don't smell as great as a rugosa but are more foolproof, depending on your zone. BTW, there are small evergreens you could put next to your house. There are some small junipers that would fit the bill, or a bird's nest blue spruce (which I don't particularly care for but some folks love). But like I said, not sure what that is by the yew hedge, it may be a dwarf for all I know but it doesn't look like it from my casual glance.

Congratulations on your new house! It's cute, and having that large tree for shade is a real bonus. I agree with Christopher's comments about using small trees (or large shrubs limbed up to tree form) to provide privacy in particular spots such as the deck area rather than a tall wall of green along the road. A lower hedge or fence will help create a personal space to keep the neighbor's dog out. Plants close to where you want particular privacy work as well as those farther away and may make for a more attractive yard. In areas with snow that needs to be plowed (along with road salt considerations) you will want any shrubs or fence along the road set back far enough so as to not be damaged by heavy snow curling off a plow blade. So I would talk to the neighbors and find out if plowing ever happens on your road. (Doug obviously lives in a warm zone.) :>) In my area I can't plant closer than about 6' to the road, but I imagine that you get somewhat less. It is possible to plant salt-tolerant perennials, which will be underground when any plowing happens, in the area outside the fence. I also notice that the current flower beds by the house are really skinny. I would make them at least 5' deep (mine are mostly deeper than that) and I would get rid of all the rocks which are a hassle to mow and weed around. Advertise the rocks for free on Craigslist and you won't have to figure out how to move them. Edge the beds with a clean cut or a mowing strip of bricks combined with a buried metal or plastic edge to keep out grass. Or remove the bed all together and have grass up to the house except for the right side with the high window where a flowering shrub would be nice. I like 12 Gardens suggestion for framing the deck with either taller in-ground plantings or containers since I would worry about someone stepping off the edge who wasn't paying attention. And the suggestion to make the garage a garden focal point is excellent! As s/he suggested, before making a plan, figure out what you want to do with your yard and where best to put things to suit both the activities (veggies in shade doesn't work) and the space. Don't forget to consider winter appeal both from inside the house and outside.

I have to disagree with you, Emmarene, that the slope is too large for a single groundcover. A groundcover can be the LAWN where a mowed turf grass lawn is not possible. One must just pick the groundcover that works for such a size. Some "timid" groundcovers work best for tiny places. Some more aggressive groundcovers work well only when the area is large enough, considering that mainly, one is managing EDGES. An aggressive groundcover in a small area would be a constant battle, but in a large area it can be one's best friend ... making ground green when grass can't, or won't, do it. The place to begin is finding out what others in the surrounding area (town/county, etc.) are using to solve the exact problem in their yards. Then one knows it grows in the area and is probably well suited to the size & job. If one groundcover is used predominantly over all others, then it is the groundcover to use. This is not the place to "be different," trying to express one's individuality. This is especially true if there is groundcover in use in a neighbor's yard. It would be an impossible battle trying to keep two different groundcovers from mixing at a property line. If one type of groundcover flows from one yard to the other, then there is no edge to maintain at the property line, making one's list of chores less. As an example, while risking bringing the haters out of the woodwork on account of the mere mention of it, I'll say that if this property was in Atlanta, Ga., the clear cut choice of groundcover would be English ivy, as it is the one in predominant use there for hilly and shady large areas (and some surprisingly small ones, though that is not my taste.) While many froth at the mouth at its mention, it nevertheless proves to be successfully manageable by many. (For me personally when I lived there, I considered it easy to care for, a lifesaver ... more or less worthy of worship on a grand scale, as it was the most versatile, hardest working horse in the barn.) In the typical case, since it commonly flowed from neighbor to neighbor, there was not property line trimming of it. Where it met lawn, many people were happy just to let the lawnmower be the one and only edger. Where ivy grew into the lawn, the regular mowing kept it from being noticeable at any distance. That left the only edging to be done where the ivy met paving. There, it needed to be trimmed a couple times/month during the growing season. One trimming per year kept it from climbing trees if one so chose. At back alleys and buildings, its leading edge could be sprayed with herbicide (such as Round-Up) in order to keep its advance in check. Or it could be manually cut, if one preferred. (Another advantage of it is that it was extraordinarily cheap/free/easy to create massive quantities of it, if one learned some simple propagation techniques.) Insofar as dividing groundcover from lawn, one would mark out all space that is too shady for turf grass to grow, or too hilly for it to be mowed. And then apply some simple art to it in order to come up with a dividing line that looks pleasant. In this case I would leave an "L" shape of grass next to the street and the drive, where it is neither too shady or too sloped. A radius transition between the two legs of the "L" would work well around the tree. The tree would be in the groundcover section, a visually comfortable distance away from its edge. Speaking of the tree, it is well past time to remove the scruffy looking bottom limbs from its trunk. The "shade" should not be hanging down, obscuring any front portion of the house.