I'd be interested also since the samples that I have of Kempas are all beautiful and are about the same price as Brazilian Cherry so I am trying to decide between the two wood species. I have to go with Engineered so I have found only three companies that have Engineered Kempas. I love Brazilian Cherry but I like Kempas for only have a medium change in color and not a dramatic change in color. But I know the Brazilian Cherry is a harder wood and I still do not understand how the Kempas is easier to scratch on my Hartco Valenza Engineered Kempas Sample while the Brazilian Cherry sample from the same company resists scratches much more so when I thought it was the finish that determined the scratches while the species determined indent marks. It looks like both are important? The Kempas is about 1710 Janka Hardness while the Brazilian Cherry is about 2880 Janka Hardness. I love the BR-111 samples but they only have Brazilian Cherry which I am still leaning for but I still have been considering the Kempas if it will not get as dark and be a little more red and orange. My big fear is the problems I had with Stanley Furniture coming from China Last year and coming so damaged. I had to send it back with so much stress for 2 weeks. It also came 6 weeks late. I ended up going with Durham Solid Maple wood furniture for my bedroom from Canada that came to me in good condition and came in a few weeks. But China is not Malaysia or Indonesia where Kempas is grown. But is China where Kempas engineered wood is created? I would have to buy Hartco Valenza or Bella Hardwood Floors or from an unknown company I found on the Internet called KempasUSA.com that offers three types of Kempas with no price listed for the Engineered Version. I do not understand how there can be a Red Kempas, a Golden Kempas and a Natural Kempas with the Natural being more and very pretty. At least I know the BR-111 Brazilian Cherry will be of quality based on reviews of the engineered Triangulo Version being a sawn cut and the samples show me that it is nice.

I think soapstone would make a beautiful contrast to the tumblewood corian! How about cabinets in an espresso glaze for the perimeter? Check the link below to see it with chestnut...I really like it! Here is a link that might be useful: Chestnut with Espresso

We are installing a QS red oak floor and QS white oak cabinets. I guess we are doing the opposite of what you are proposing... The floors will just be sealed with no stain and the cabinets will have Miniwax red oak stain. We wanted the wood to complement each other but definitely be distinct so they didn't "blend into" each other.

On the other hand, if you're asking what's generally the best way to make a good quality cabinet regardless of the finish (or assuming you're going to paint it just like the one shown), then it has less to do with the application, how it matches the decor, usage of the piece, etc. Not being a cabinetmaker I'll just throw in that high quality plywood like birch is probably considered by most to be superior to particleboard or MDF. Solid wood isn't really necessary and in fact plywood is more stable and well behaved. The only advantage of solid wood is if you stain and varnish so you can look at it, so if' you're painting, Baltic birch plywood.