I'm not sure of exactly where you plan on putting the additional cabinets. If it's on that wall across from the DW and next to the door, you won't have clearance for traffic at all. For the fridge, the cabinet that is over the fridge looks to be a 36" or 39" cabinet, which is appropriate for a 36" (standard) sized fridge. Your fridge looks to be a 30" sized one, and this would leave you (and any future owners) without the option of getting a standard sized fridge in that location. Are you sure you want to imprison yourself to that small a size fridge forever? And, to get a deep cabinet and (very) small broom closet there, you'd need to increase the soffit depth, and go right up to the molding on the door frame. That would leave you with about a 6" exterior sized broom closet (with interior dimensions of about4 1/2" if you chose FRAMELESS cabinets only), because you would need a bit of spacer between it and the fridge. That would be a LOT of money spent on very little gain of usable space. Please post an overhead scale schematic so that we can look at the total layout of the kitchen and indicate exactly where you are talking about putting the desk area. This will help others to help you and also help you to visualize the changes you are proposing and the consequences.

Here is a suggestion for the second floor: The master bedroom itself is a little smaller, but you still have the basics -- a place for a dresser and/or TV and room for a king bed with comfortable walkways all around. I added windows on a second wall of the master for better light and a cross breeze. This is something that is easy to add and will tip your hat a touch when it comes to appealing to buyers. The more rooms with windows on two sides, the better. Especially big-selling rooms like the master. I also removed the second master closet that you don't need, but the one that remains is now a bit larger and neatly separated into his and hers sides with no corners to contend with. My guess is this is still more than you need, but, again, nice master amenities make buyers happy, and you were concerned with resale. The master bath is also a bit larger, and the way it is laid out now will also feel roomier. Big shower and more counter space. You have a little laundry room upstairs now as well, plus an extra, generously-sized hall closet for linens, extra toilet paper, baby stuff, etc. Especially with bedroom #1's small closet and lots of kids planned, I'm sure you'll easily find a need for more closet space. You'll notice I also created a new closet for bedroom #3 so bedroom #2 could have double the closet space. You'd mentioned the possibility of two more children, so I thought it might be nice to plan ahead and make one of the bedrooms work for two kids. I am picturing having a pair twin beds lined under the sloped ceiling in bedroom #2 similar to this: I am going to work on the downstairs now. I'm going to try to make it a little smaller so you don't have to have low ceilings in so many places upstairs. Upstairs is clearly where you need the square footage and is driving the addition, so I think it makes sense to make part of the downstairs a covered porch or similar (whatever doesn't count against your gross square footage) or maybe part of the upstairs can overhang the downstairs a bit.

Donna, I am glad you shared the pattern you are seeing. You do have a shrinkage problem and a respect (aka taken for granted) problem. I don't come across this often but it happens. Forgive me for micromanaging a bit but details are important. Ultimately, you will be able to make a informed decisions. Please, have that meeting I advocated for and set up a proper table and few chairs for your office on site. You are the boss. You are the homeowner. You do not read minds. You control the purse strings. Three large signs are needed before you have the meeting. All work must be approved through a signed change order with face to face meeting. The Boss Lady's Office. Anything removed from job site needs to be visually checked and noted by homeowner. You need to have your second sink in your hands by week end or a cheque cut for the amount plus handling costs. Not negotiable. You need to have every change or problem brought to your immediate attention before any work is done. This is normal on most reno sites. Listen, ask questions, and look at all the parts being discarded. Take photos. Educating the client is part of the job. A new QUOTE, not an estimate, should be written up for each additional requirement on the job. i.e. change order. Your heating could have very well gone. That is a separate contract. Ask the GC to give you an estimate and get two more. You are the MRP; Most Responsible Person on the site for the entire home and yard. You choose who gets the work. You pay directly when the contracted job is done with a cheque or e-payment that can be tracked. If you are still challenged, call me on my page. I'm off recuperating from surgery right now but my brain needs a work out. There's no charge. I will put a 60 minute limit on it. But please call PST office hours. One of my recommends is from a woman whose project I was pressed to take on with a manufacture I represented. SOS.

My advice would be to repaint the kitchen in a lighter color, maybe a warm white, before you do anything else. I think the reason this is feeling a little blah is because there isn't much contrast between the cabinets, the tile, and the walls. It's all too monotone. Once that's done, I bet you anything you'll feel much better about how it looks.