radon mitigation in full basement (no sump, no interior drain)
countingblessings
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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countingblessings
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agofsq4cw
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Backup Sump Pump
Comments (1)I think a backup pump with it's own piping and wiring is a good idea. My neighbor was recently away...the pump came on, but the hose from the pump developed a tear....water all over...had to tear out the walls in finished basement, etc.. A backup pump with it's own piping would have saved her. I've heard of pumps with battery back-up and it makes sense. I really don't know any good brands. The thing that bothers me from what you are describing is..."a back-up pump outside the pit." I don't know what you cellar is like, but it sounds like the water would have to rise about 5"-6" before the pump would kick on. That is the reason for having a pit...the water drains into the pit and is pumped out before there is any accumulation of water on the floor. I'm assuming you have a full basement??...See MoreFinishing basement/radon concerns
Comments (1)You have room for improvement. All cracks should be sealed in some way. For the walls, foam board sealed with foil tape as your insulation, then caulk the tops and bottoms will do the trick. For the floors, caulk the cracks with concrete crack caulking. Broken up concrete should be replaced. Radon system can achieve greater pressure with a 3 inch pipe. Some install 4 or even 6 inch assuming greater airflow is what gets the trick done. Higher pressure is better for active subslab mitigation. If you have a French drain, often they can hook up a second radon fan to that and suck from that as well. Your current radon fan might need to be upsized. This is a double edge sword, you get more suction but the fan is louder so there is a trade off....See MoreDivert soil water away from crawl space & mitigate crawlspace Radon
Comments (3)Once you landscape, you should solve most of your water problem. Adding exterior water proofing and drain tile around the entire foundation to exit on the down hill side will solve the rest of the intrusion into the crawl space.There really are no shortcuts in dealing with active water intrusion into a crawl/basement space. Preventing the water from entering is really the only sure way to maintain a dry space. As for the radon abatement, there are lots of solutions. Passive abatement is the least expensive long term. That means installing a grid of drain tiles(holes downward) and a stand pipe(extending to a height above the roof) under gravel. Then the plastic you mentioned and pour the concrete floor. The passive system is done without the concrete, with the plastic sheeting glued to the foundation walls and any pipes. Pouring a floor over it is fine., but the sealing is still very important, as concrete alone will not effectively seal against the gas. Which is forced from the earth naturally by pressure in the earth. Even though radon is heavier than air, the passive system does not allow the gas anywhere to go save into the piping and eventually up the stand pipe and out into the outside....See MoreFull slab on grade of Full basement option
Comments (39)It's best practice to use perforated PVC (NOT PE black slinky) around the outside of footings/bottom of basement and retaining walls. This pipe is wrapped in a filter sock, clean gravel and protected by thicker geotextile fabric like a burrito. It's best to backfill with clean gravel on top of burrito and against buried walls. This gravel is also protected by fabric. A cap layer of less pervious soil and good slope away from the house redirects surface water, the drainage stuff below is for times of heavy rain and increased groundwater. The perforated pipe transitions to solid pipe as it leaves the gravel burrito at house. It's pitched to drain by gravity, just like downspout drains. Some sites may need to trench 100' or more to drain to daylight. Cleanouts should be provided as needed, same as with waste plumbing. It's also best practice to have a drainage pipe in the slab gravel layer that maintains a consistent slope to daylight, usually requiring a penetration of the stem wall on the downhill side. Very few residential monolithic slabs in our area, but those might need the pipe to go through or under footing. A dry, monolithic slab site may not need a drain if built up well. If basement is a top design priority, and gravity drainage is not possible, then I would specify an airtight sump cover and look into battery backup if in an area of frequent power outages. The wetter and more remote the site, the more nervous I would be without gravity assist. Power failures often coincide with the big weather events that require drainage....See Morecountingblessings
2 years agoSuper Lumen
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agofsq4cw
2 years ago3onthetree
2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago3onthetree
2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years ago3onthetree
2 years agocountingblessings
2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago3onthetree
2 years agoCharles Ross Homes
2 years ago
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