Not yet, though it's only been 8 months that we've had the tile. Maybe it's mind over matter: we love our tile! :) We also aren't cruising around barefoot all the time, and I don't do a lot of standing in one spot for extended periods. I've often heard the issues that you mentioned, but I sometimes wonder if part of the problems aren't due to individuals' poor posture, sinks/faucets/cooktops not being properly positioned (i.e., too far forward), etc. My elderly mom complained of her hard floors starting to bother her legs, so I picked up a couple of those foam floor mats -- she finds them very cushy, and they've helped greatly.

Durable is a relative term. What is "durable" in wood is considered defective in vinyl or porcelain. Wood scratches. It dents. It ages. It patinas. It can change colour and change shape. This is normal for wood. Even the toughest factory finish in Aluminum Oxide (9 layers of it) is still going to scratch and scuff and show that someone lives there. Again - totally normal. If scratches and the appearance of abrasions all over the floor before it is 1 year old is upsetting, then hardwood is probably not for you. That being said, you want to work with a nice, thick US, Canadian or European made product with a nice thick wear layer (4mm is a nice start...6mm is better). A nice thick plank is also something to look at. Multiple cross layers is a good thing. I've seen intensely beautiful engineered wood out of German that have 9 layers and is 3/4" thick with a 5mm wear layer. Lovely. Starts at $15/sf. Very impressive stuff. But again, as good as the Germans and Swiss are at manufacturing, they cannot stop wood from denting, scratching and etching. Because it is inherent with all wood products. It is what wood does.

Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors.

If you want something that is waterproof, they do make AquaGuard or NuCore laminate flooring that is made with recycled rubber. You could also go with a wood look tile option. But you could never really go wrong with a hardwood floor to increase the value of your home. Just throwing a few options into the ring. Check out Floor & Decor if you're interested in a waterproof LAMINATE. - Woodruff Floors, LLC