Rose canes cut by pest - looks like with pruning shears
Chip
2 years ago
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rifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)
2 years agoChip
2 years agoRelated Discussions
New cane looks injured. To prune, or not to prune?
Comments (4)jerijen:I hadn't thought about Elmer's Glue, even though I use it when pruning, but I think that would be a good precaution to anything taking up residence there. seil:Fingers crossed Eden does make it through the winter. It's in a protected location and prior to purchasing it I had read that others in my zone had success overwintering it year after year. We'll see : ) michaelg:I think I will take the wait and see approach since it is healthy. The Moo Poo Tea this summer may have spurred on the growth spurt. Maybe too much of a good thing. I'm learning. Thanks All for your help. I appreciate it!...See MoreBest Pruning Shears For Raspberry & Blackberry
Comments (2)The caneberry types you mention are not typically sheared, but are selectively pruned one cut at a time. Rasp and blackcaps should be easy to cut through with any basic hand pruner; some erect blackberry types are a tougher cut. All I can say is, my dull 20-year old smallish hand pruner works just fine, if you use a circular motion around the larger canes, scoring or cutting through the outer cane layer by pinching the cane with the tool and rotating the cane or the tool around the cane circumference, they cut through quite easily. It would take brute force or a more advanced sharp tool to cut straight through in one squeeze--many such tools are common....See MoreIt does not look exactly like a 'cane barers roses' problem.
Comments (13)Forgive my ignorance. I repeat, I never had borers in the reeds of my roses. From what I understand the process is as follows: an insect enters the cane of the rose by the cut that was made, ie by the top. Then make a gallery down to deposit the eggs. And it keeps coming down ... Then there is something I do not understand: why in my reeds, these galleries are not drawn continuously. I explain ... if you look at the photographs you can see a piece with galleries ... then the reed are healthy ... down there are more galleries ... other healthy centimeters ... As an explanation I think that the galleries formed in this way, could only be formed if the insects penetrate in addition to the top, also by holes that make at different heights of the cane. I'm wrong And if I am right ... the problem of the borers is not solved only by sealing the cut that is done when pruning at the end of the cane. If the insects also penetrate at different heights ... then I do not see the solution !! Sorry if I am not understanding the problem of borers but looking at my photographs is very clear that it is not a single gallery formed from above continuously. They are discontinuous galleries and should therefore penetrate the sides ... Do you get me out of my error with your explanations? Thank you very much....See MorePruning CLIMBING ROSES (main canes)
Comments (6)My advice is to wait to prune until the large flowered daffodils are underway in your area. Prune all climber growth basal canes as well as laterals, until white/cream colored pith is encountered, AND the stem thickness is minimally as thick as a wooden writing pencil. At this point what's left can be further pruned to accommodate the support structure restrictions if necessary. What guidelines I have given are subject to your interpretation. Once blooming climbers are pruned differently. I will defer to those folks knowledgeable on their pruning to chime in. Very old looking basal canes on climbers are left in place as long as green, vigorous growth emerges somewhere ithem,, even well beyond the crown. My Lady Ashe, which recently succumbed to Rose Rosette Virus, had a 4" diameter trunk on her, from which about 4 laterals emerged which were a good 6 years old, quite old looking, and pumped out beautiful, thick additional laterals from themselves. My Lady Ashe was about 12 years old, own root. Climbers are not pruned like hybrid teas, whose basal canes loose productivity at about 4 yrs. age, and are cut back to the crown. I believe climbers growing in more mild climates are pruned more aggressively, but how I have found my climbers to respond best in W. Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, zone 6, is as I have recommended. Moses...See Moretsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
2 years agoChip
2 years agoChip
2 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agoChip
2 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
2 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years ago
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