The good news for you is that some of the best agricultural sites in the US consist of red clay soil. As long as your property DRAINS sufficiently, it's no big deal to tame this stuff. Trust me, I know from personal experience! Rather than looking at the big picture, why not focus on one small portion of your landscaping....one area that will make you happy each time you look at it? The ordeal of it ALL won't seem so insurmountable if you attack it a little bit at a time. Eric had the right idea in his earlier comment. I'd surely suggest that you turn as much of your property into something useful (and easier to take care of) instead of grass. Large landscape beds and tree collections can all be mulched to keep weeds down and to add to their attractiveness. Assorted mulches eventually break down and begin improving that soil, too. When we moved to our present home, this yard was pretty discouraging, too. I was horrified at this brick hard stuff we were supposed to grow stuff in. We tilled in a fair amount of aged bark fines and compost ONLY into those areas where we planned to add landscaping (shrubs, perennials, and annuals). The several trees we added, as well as the grass (mostly weeds when we got here), simply had to make do. Guess what? Trees planted directly into that hard red clay, with no amendments at all, grow like crazy! Those beds were amended once. We top dress with mulch and compost annually. We aerated the areas meant for grass heavily, then sodded with a hybrid Bermuda. After a very brief growing in period, the grass began to thrive like crazy on top of that red clay. Again, with very little watering (and we don't have an irrigation system). Come to find out, there's nothing difficult about growing in red clay soil. Well, we use a heavy duty auger to plant things rather than a shovel... but so what? ;-) Our plantings have thrived with less water, less fertilizer, less fuss than I have ever experienced in all of my years of growing! Go figure.

Well to be honest he doesnt seem very interested at all. The first doe that he has breed before, her name is Gypsy. Gypsy was the first one we put in with him thinking that familiar would be better for the first one. She came into heat, was Urinating at him and flirting... and I think they breed... didnt witness it but she stopped the behavor for 24 hours, the next day hubby saw the buck ramming her into the fence and she was taken out.. that was a little over a month ago, not sure if she was breed but is looking a little fat in the right areas. But with the new ones he shows no interest... at least not when we are around... which is alot. The first female Gypsy we saw him romancing her, but have not seen him doing the same with any of the others, not even the doe I know is in heat. He is def not in full rut because when he is that is rather obvious... Im wondering if Im jumping the gun and its just not his time to go into rut/breed. I think Im gonna try hand breeding, and Im also gonna try putting the whole herd together again. I put him in a pen by himself because of safety reasons for a few of the herd. [one was his wether brother he was taking advatage of, and the other a doe we arent breeding that doesnt have live babies] But put him with the rest of the herd does and wethers too because thats how he was before.

If the screened porch had an exterior door to grade it would be a legal "emergency escape and rescue" path under every building code I have used but it would not be considered a "means of egress" unless it was one of the 2 exits required from the ground floor of the house. Emergency escape and rescue opening requirements are entirely separate from means of egress requirements even though both might be satisfied by an exterior door. Normally the required "means of egress" would be back through the house and therefore a door to a porch would be considered a "supplemental exit" with no particular requirements and also an emergency escape and rescue opening" with quite different requirements. For an emergency escape and rescue opening, the requirements usually say nothing about the "exterior" of the building and they even allow passage through the opening into a below grade areaway or into an enclosed bulkhead with similar very small opening requirements. These small openings can also have protective bars, grilles, and screens covering them as long as a tool or a key is not needed to open them. Exiting through a door and a screened porch would be far easier and safer than squeezing through a small window and areaway or covered hatch that could be accidentally blocked. Of course, there might be a local ordinance that is contrary to the national codes or the building officials are fearful that a screened porch will later be enclosed without an escape door or window and without a building permit. That seems silly since anyone can do this just by nailing a required door or window shut or locking it with a key from inside.

It is not "normal" for a puppy to be defensive, but he is a little guy and only just started receiving kindness when you got him. I don't have an opinion on whether this pup is really aggressive. There are so many different reasons for a dog to respond with snarling, etc. Resource guarding is very specific behavior and may not be an issue beyond resources. Resource guarding is different from dog aggression and you would need an experienced trainer or behaviorist to determine that and the strategies to deal with it. He should be neutered as soon as medically possibly. That would be at 6 months, I think. One key in dog training is to set up the puppy for success BEFORE you need to correct undesirable behavior. Raising your voice is not a correction for an untrained dog, and verbal corrections don't need to be loud, anyway. So instead of just putting them together and verbally correcting him, supervise their interactions and reward him profusely for appropriate behavior. Just putting them together on one bowl is not really training, and a moment could go south in a second. And he would not apply the experience of "sharing" a bowl of food with "sharing" in general. He might instead learn that he has to compete to get what he wants. He should learn to eat only on command, and that really needs professional guidance with a trainer if you are not familiar with how to train this. Training a puppy is very complicated. It is way easier to train proper behavior than untrain bad behavior, so doing this now is a good investment of time. Do NOT apply Milan-style training ever. Trying to train a dog by copying Milan is like trying to drive a race car after watching NASCAR. Dogs, especially puppies, learn more with positive reinforcement than negative corrections and domination. Good luck, and thank you so much for seeing how important this little guy's life is.