It is difficult to get oranges to fruit when left indoors all year. Have you tried to give a dose of high nitrogen fertilizer? Usually fertilizing stimilates a citrus tree to bloom. Oranges usually prefer cool nights, which it isn't getting if left indoors all year. Try putting it outside on a patio in late spring through early fall after all danger of frost is over. Be aware that if the temperature and humidity outside it is very different than inside, the tree may go through shock when moved between the two. As for the leaf drop, it is not normal. One of my valencias lost leaves like that last summer. It turned out to be underwatering. Once I increased the watering schedule, the leave drop stopped.

Bulldog, njoasis mentioned something that he does that is VERY important that many Northern folks mess up with when growing Valencia indoors. Not with all Citrus, like Key Lime and Meyers Lemon, but WITH VALENCIA, I have found that you HAVE to give Valencia a cooling off period. I had my tree for two years in Zone 5 Kansas. I asked a guy in Florida what I was doing wrong. I told him that I would bring it in, in October and set in inside in a warm spot in the house. It would lose ALL it's leaves, then I would put it out again in March and it would leaf, but not flower. He Suddenly stopped me and told me to, "DO NOT BRING IT IN AND LEAVE IT IN A HEATED HOUSE". He informed me that the furnace heat in the house makes the air far too dry for the tree, and it actually needs temps around 40 degrees with no watering. I thought he was badly mistaken, but I had nothing to lose since I had the tree for 2 years and NOTHING. So I put the tree out in the garage and forgot about. I went to look at the tree in the back of my garage in March and to my surprise, I had lost MAYBE 5 leaves all together. By late March I had about 50 blooms on a 3' tree. As of today (Jan 2, 2008) I have 7 Valencia oranges that will be ready to pick in a month or so. If you have a garage, set it out there RIGHT NOW and forget about it. I know it sounds dumb, but it works.

Mike, Sorry to take so long to supply the information, but I have been out of town. My soil is basically sand with a neutral PH. Actually checked by the Universiity of Florida extension. I water twice a week unless there is some rain on or just before watering days. We have had an above rain this year during the "dry" season I am not actually checked for pests. Yes the branches go bare and dry out. I did fertilized in late February. I have not sprayed anything yet.

Judging from the low cut graft, clausens will label these as semi dwarf. Quite honestly, semi dwarf or std can always be controlled with pruning. From what i have been reading, most root stock from most citrus nurseries uses c-35 and carizo where some will label them as standard or semi dwarf. Where i see the difference is on std graft, the main stem/branch is longer before it starts to branch out where semi dwarf has multiple branch shoots growing near the graft line. Logically thinking, the root stock has to work harder to feed multiple low branches, that the tree will take longer to grow taller making it semi dwarf. With some top pruning and training, it will bush out more and limit its height. It may be worth noting that dwarf citrus grown on flying dragon rootstock tends to grow very small even when unpruned. However, low production and fruit size may be an issue due to its slow growth. Fruit Size can easily be remediated with thinning while sacrificing production. Regards, John This post was edited by johninator on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 19:44