If you follow Citrus's instructions and do not over water at this time, it should be just fine.. You will get to know your tree well and it will respond to your care because you care and came here to be successful... The two main cause for twig die back other than being pot bound is over or under watering.. When you bring a tree inside, usually within a few days once it senses it is not in its favorite environment, it can take days or weeks for the roots to resume taking up moisture like before because they rebel and try to adjust..It is critical that at this time that the roots are in a very porous mix and not stay wet for days...Because growth has almost stopped, the roots can get damaged by rot. I always notice that at certain times my trees will all of sudden dry out slower than usual and stop taking up moisture as they once had outdoors..Once things resume as usual, usually within a few weeks, you will notice that you will have to water more frequently again.. It is important at this time that you do not under water... Hope this helps for the next time you have to do a drastic change to its environment or root disturbance.. I wish your tree all the best and I know it will respond to its sunny spot there and longer days..Even more so once put outdoors again) Mike This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Sat, Feb 1, 14 at 22:45

Let me add to John's excellent advice - I agree, not a fan of MG, and it's really not organic. Frankly, all non-organic fertilizers become organic as the break down. You don't need to use nearly as much with a non-organic product (so you save $$$$), and as long as you're giving your trees enough water, any salts from non-organic fertilizers that might possibly build up will be leeched out. Vigoro Citrus/Avocado is fine, but I do prefer Gro Power Citrus & Avocado Food. It contains a large amount of humic acid, which is very helpful if you live in S. California or AZ (you don't say where you live in you GW signature). Watering 24 inches is plenty - citrus feeder roots exist in the top 18 to 24" of soil. Also, you need to remove the grass from under your trees. Grass will compete with the Nitrogen, which is what looks like is happening to your trees. Citrus are heavy nitrogen feeders and so is grass. I agree with John, looks a bit like salt burn, but I also think you need some micronutrients as well. You can apply Grow More Citrus Grower's Blend as a foliar spray or soil drench to really give your trees a micronutrient boost. I haven't tried Bayer Bayfolan Forte, so I'll have to check that product out, John, thanks for the suggestion. We typically see this here in my area in January through February, when we get our cold rains. That causes our micronutrients to be locked out, and washed away, so you may see your citrus, especially the young citrus, get a little chlorotic looking. Make sure your trees are being drip watered, and not being watered by overhead sprinklers. Citrus trees do not like their trunks constantly wet. And for us here in S. Calif, our fertilizing times are March through October, to avoid flushing during times when we might still get a frost, thus damaging that new flush that can occur when you fertilize. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis: Backyard Orchard - Citrus

I can only tell you from my own experience and hope that it relates and helps. Your Valencia is looking good and I believe will be back to normal soon. [see below] Go real easy on the feeding and when you do feed, keep the fertilizer well away from the trunk. I'd also suggest moving the soaker hose much further away from the trunk. First of all, the Meyer and Valencia may be on different rootstock and so that may explain their different condition. They may have reacted to or tolerated something very differently. I have a Redblush and Sanguinelli looking very much like yours; that is, they are just beginning to bloom and with minimal and yellow leaves. They are probably a few weeks behind yours.My Valencia looks far worse, just new "nubs" trying to push out of the green bark. It still has about a dozen yellow leaves. I hear that this massive bloom may be the initial stage of recovery after a drought and or stress. All three mentioned above endured 3-4 moves as landscape plans changed over the last two years. However, these three were in a somewhat similar decline exactly a year ago (yellow, dry looking leaves and tips) but had turned worse. I did not realize that i was over-feeding until July. I stopping the feeding and began flushing the soil with copious amounts of water regularly. This seemed to stabilize them. They have stood in a coma until a few weeks ago when again began growing (they had been regrowing the roots i had burned by over-feeding i guess). My Lisbon did a major leaf drop and leafless bloom after a transplant; that is, just blooms no new leaves. [It was in its location for 5 years so i did have to cut the roots significantly to move it.] Fast forward 10 months and its pushing lots of leaves and all systems normal. There is plenty of nutrition in my soil and i am not feeding anything until i get evidence otherwize. I believe that root damage is the cause of my woes, and in my case it was too much fertilzer, and perhaps applied too close to the trunk! I hope this helps and good luck!

I don't think you have anything to worry about or to correct. You can chalk it all up to the tree still being pretty young. Valencias are generally good about not needing any pruning and setting the proper amount of fruit that it can bear. The oranges will sweeten up if you let them sit longer on the tree.