uh oh… basement LVP
JLCR
2 years ago
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JLCR
2 years agoAnne Duke
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Uh-oh! Aloe rot! Did I manage to save it?
Comments (25)Tym, As Pirate Girl said, you're too concerned about watering these. They'll be fine. They are drawing resources from their lower leaves in order to live, but this takes months. As the resources are depleted, the lower leaves dry up. You can remove or not. This is a natural process, especially when they're in growth - as new growth appears, old growth dies. As you note, until there are roots there is no reason to water them. The only condition where you would is one you can't supply right now - lots of sun and warmth, a broad expanse of sidewalk or a heating mat, and the plant sitting in pure pumice in a pot that will warm easily. Until you have those conditions when an Aloe is rootless, watering is fruitless - or rather it's worse than fruitless, because it will kill the plant. Just be kickin' it with the Aloe - stand it up in a nice sturdy vase/container (a 155mm shell casing works great), or leave it potted in dry soil, and spritz as needed. It will be fine until growing time. I hope this has convinced you, because frankly I'm out of words....See MoreUh... was I supposed to water these over winter?
Comments (5)Scully, not necessarily, check your tubers if your tubers are not all shriveled up and dried out (hard) they should be fine. I had a friend who used to dig her tubers and wrap them in newspaper, she stored in cardboard boxes in a cool cellar. It's a good idea to check your tubers a couple of times throughout the winter to make sure they are not drying out, this usually happens when they are stored in a place to warm. If the storage area is cool, not freezing they should be all right. I'm in a warmer zone than you but the method of storing I like best is to dig a pit below the frost level in the veggie garden or.... line the bottom with peat or shavings put the tubers in, top with shavings or peat, bury, then cover the top of the pit with some kind of lid to keep the rain off them. They get enough moisture from the sides to stop them from shriveling and in my case this really works and I don't give them another thought all winter. Although I'm in zone 8 I can't leave them where I plant them, we get way too much rain throughout the winter, they just rot. Annette...See MoreUh-oh... Freezer won't open...
Comments (21)OK, an update... The blow dryer method didn't work, it had overheating protection and kept shutting itself off. I removed the door. It still took some doing even after taking off all the screws/bolts. The freezer was almost full of ice/snow. I used some to line a cooler and transferred the food... then took much of the food to a friend's house, she had room in her freezer. Some of the tomatoes had freezer burn so threw them out. A batch of sauce we make still looked excellent so saved it. About 50lbs of deseeded, dejuiced maters in freezer bags that were in a big coated box look great still. If they defrost I'll run them thru the Spremy. It's not like I don't have enough tomatoes on the plants still, which are still flourishing... Now to get her back here later today to get at the 3 screws that go on the bottom of the door... Mark...See MoreUh oh! New roof, same old ice dams and leaks
Comments (30)Okay, here's where we now stand. The roofer who oversaw the roofing job (not the roofer of record), seems to feel he is responsible, since I first contracted with him. He feels that the reason the water got under the drip edge where it did is that the gutter had been raised in order to pitch it the "correct" way, and it was not low enough, that the drip edge was going into the gutter instead of sitting above it. He wants to either cover the fascia board with aluminum and run it up under the roof with a bead of caulk, or, place the "flap" of the drip edge against the fascia board and put the gutter up against it so there is no opening for the water to get into. I had the rep from Tamko at the house. He feels that the color problem resulted in the run between colors not being discarded, told me it RARELY happens , and is suggesting that the roofer swap about five sections with other sections from an upper roof, and hand seal them. He insists the integrity of the roof will not be compromised, and that it will look perfect. He also says that Tamko has no liability for color, that their warranty does not cover it, and he spoke to both roofers, partly in my presence, and partly while he "hid" in the driveway. I have to assume Tamko is going to pay for this work, but I was not told anything other than that someone else from Tamko would come to the house to look it over, and make arrangements. He then said that I would be asked to sign a release after the work is done. Interesting, in light of the fact that he is saying Tamko has no responsibility, that they simply want a "happy customer". I am not sure I am happy about them pulling out sections of roofing and replacing it, so I would like some opinions here. I had another roofer come in to give me some ideas on the ice damming and backup situation. He also mentioned aluminum on the fascia, he did not get up on a ladder so he can't comment on the drip edge, but he also mentioned another product which is "sticky", like the shield, which he feels he could put on the edge of the roof behind the gutter. Will this work with everything that is already in place? I feel like I have just spent over $13,000 for a nightmare, and I don't want it compounded, but the only reason we even did the roof was because of the backup of the water after a snow, and this problem has not been remedied....See Morekandrewspa
2 years agoJLCR
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