overhead fixture in 1950s post and beam
Pamela
2 years ago
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Dave
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Cable lights vs. track for post and beam construction
Comments (5)Thanks for the input. I like the way the sparseness to the cable lights in the store, but the ceilings there are 10ft and white and we have 9ft covered in wood! gslgal - I like the suggestion about using tracks by pointing the heads up and having them on separate switches. dim4fun - I had to smile at the suggestion for antique bronze b/c we choose that for our window hardware. The picture link is to a house built by someone else and I'm assuming that they did not build to plan b/c there must be space for those ceiling fixtures - I didn't see any conduit running. So that's a little misleading. Built to plan, as our house is - the ceiling is 2 inches of pine that IS the floor for the upstairs! We could hide some junction boxes in the floor of closets and mechanical spaces but those are 1)already small and 2) not conveniently located to have symmetrical fixtures. I guess we got this far along w/out a real lighting plan because we just loved the floor plan and style of house and knew that we would find a way to make it work. thanks for your input. It sounds like wall mounted track lights with thought devoted to how the light will project into the room will be the way to go. . . although I am very tempted to buy some of the real cheap cable lights from Ikea or Lowes to try .. . . :-) I hope to post some pictures of what ever the outcome is!...See MoreNeed some help/advice for kitchen lighting with beams
Comments (9)You can look for families of lights... You will have pendants, flush mounts and wall lights all coordinated.... And you can keep the soffits if they style nicely like these: Or tear them out and put lighting on top of them if you don't want the taller cabinets to go to the ceiling with crown: Are you working with a kitchen designer? They should be able to put the plans into their design program so you can see the space 3 D. This is important - there are a few changes I would make to the plan... I would strongly urge you to get a full 36" lazy susan in the corner. I have seen the 33" ones and they are not great. Most garbage units are 21" wide ( there are a few 24s) - you don't need t balance the lower cabinets when you turn a corner on each side of the stove - just balance the uppers - the island blocks that visual anyway. Your wall cabinet all the way left of the hood and the pantry right of the ref. will need to have a filler next to them or an odd overlay on the door or extended style - the contractor needs some forgiveness to install level. Even though you are doing a counter depth ref. you should do panels on each side. or the pantries need to be 27" deep.... Just some suggestions! Good luck! Looks great so far!...See MoreLayout help - 1950’s dump/ranch
Comments (18)If the only issue with the tile between windows is the color, I would just remove and replace with something more aesthetically pleasing and cohesive to the end layout. I would think replacing the window would be an expense you could use elsewhere since budget is a consideration. I know people advise on 18" dishwashers but I live alone and find that my standard 24" dishwasher is not large enough to hold everything especially if I have actually cooked or baked so that it isn't just a plate and coffee cup but bowls and Cuisinart and Tupperware etc. I wouldn't deliberately install a 18" dishwasher just as I wouldn't deliberately install a super small refrigerator. I am not a KD but I think your kitchen is large enough to accommodate normal appliances - I have an 10 foot galley kitchen which held a 30" stove and 24" dishwasher. Since you have counter over the dishwasher all you would gain would be 6" of lower storage. While not ideal, I stored stuff I didn't use frequently like holiday cookie cutters in storage away from the kitchen - not really that different from people who store stuff in their garage or basement especially since the distance to where I kept infrequently used items was actually closer than my friends' attached garages....See MoreWhite washing knotty pine walls and high beam ceiling
Comments (25)Hmmm...I have an idea. Never tried before, so please do a sample board. Disclaimer, may fail, too. Ok.... So, since whitewashed knotty pine has a tendency to come out pink, maybe using the opposite of the color wheel to counteract the pink would help. Adding the opposite color into the 1st coat of wash, then a 2nd thicker coat of white wash on top. I use this opposite color application a lot in watercolors to tone colors in my paintings which is similar process in whitewashing. Please note again, it is a concept. Please do a sample board 1st. My process before doing walls for clients.. I get 2-3 sample boards to experiment with to test the products & application before going into doing a whole wall. I highly suggest practicing on samples until application works. Then test it on actual wall, let it all dry. see it in daylight & night lights. Once it passes all the tests to client's liking, then go for it full force in confidence. It's a lot of extra steps & precautions, however a lot less unforseen problems later. Hope that helps. Whatever ends up working, would appreciate seeing. Please post after photos. Good luck!...See MorePamela
2 years agokudzu 9 --yes, it is a vaulted post and beam ceiling in a midcentury modern from 1951 with the tongue and groove directly under the roof. The former owner, my father in law, had a swag pendant with a chain --and I just might do the same for now. He had three globes attached to an ugly fan Those globes today could cost about $1000 altogether. I can just use the globes and swag the wiring to the wall --see this shot of what was..... you can even see the fan blades.
Pamela
2 years agokudzu9
2 years ago
BlueberryBundtcake - 6a/5b MA
2 years agoOur lights are mostly swagged in the post and beam section where ceiling mount lights are most practical; other rooms just have lamps or wall mount (bathrooms) ... in our case, the ceiling is literally the floor joists, so no option to go though. Drilling to get the electrical up to the second floor was an ordeal when the addition was built ... the electrician actually refused to deal with drilling through some of the beams (24" thick ... had to be drilled carefully from both sides).
Alternative is to run a wire cover:
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