The term "dwarf" is relative, especially when it comes to conifers :-). The only characteristic that makes a conifer a dwarf is rate of growth - substantially slower than species will qualify but a true 'dwarf' is one that grows and inch or less a year. It is important to keep in mind that conifers (and most other trees and shrubs) never stop growing as long as they are alive. Growth will slow considerably once they achieve a genetically determined maturity but it only stops once the plant dies. 'Tiny Towers' (Cupressus sempervirens 'Monshel') is the perhaps the most commonly available 'dwarf' cultivar of Italian cypress but both the terms "tiny" and "dwarf" should be taken with a grain of salt :-) This can reach 25-30 feet in height, although growth is very slow and it will take a good many years to do so. 'Totem' is another but less common cultivar that will eventually achieve a similar height. Growing this plant in a container will also contribute to slow growth and a reduced size over time and it's a pretty good choice for this purpose. What size container you choose should be dependent on the size plants you obtain - you don't want anything too oversized to begin with so plan on potting up as the plants gain size. For example, I might go with a 7G container if I were purchasing 5G plants - this would extend the need for root pruning and/or repotting to around 2-3 years. And I'd opt for deeper rather than wider containers if I were attempting to form a screen. Here is a link that might be useful: 'Tiny Towers' Italian cypress

Someone had asked for clarification about whether these 15 cypress trees were Leyland or Italian Cypress. They are Italian Cypress--the narrow, pointy ones. And I also sure do appreciate all of the feedback and insights I received so far. I also, this summer, found many grubs in the mulch I put down this last spring (worrisome, for I hear they eat roots). The nurseryman recommended I keep an abundant layer of composted mulch to retain moisture through the long, dry, hot summer, which I did, by putting down 1-2 inches thick, under some heavy bark, to keep it from blowing away. Also, the trees became somewhat loose and rather than tying them, I found I was able to make the trees much more stable by compressing (actually punching) down the nursery pot soil medium around each tree. 2 months after doing this, the trees look fine. The ribbon of concrete & border blocks also has now made it possible for me to flood irrigate the trees deeply--and less frequently and I think this is good for it is training the roots to go down and spread. I mentioned these grubs to the same nursery people and they then sold me some Hi-Yield Kill-a-Grub, which I haven't yet applied because a recent inspection didn't turn any up grubs now (early October in the Sonoran Desert). I am planning the next deep watering late in October, at which time I will fertilize with a granular 13-7-7 tree and shrub fertilizer. What are anyone's thoughts? Should I hold of on applying the Hi-Yield Kill-a-grub until next spring/ summer? I have a good handle on the spider mites, washing the trees off once in a while with a medium-strong spray of water and an occaisional systemic Rose Food which contains a systemic pesticide. I don't like using this, for the mulch is now producing mushrooms ;-/ that the Cactus Wrens seem to enjoy. Thanks, everyone! Walt

insert finger 2 inches into soil .. and do not water again.. until the soil is warm.. or drying out ... and heck.. from what i know of seattle.. that might be next year.. lol ... same with a sunburn theory .. lol a lot of these small plants are grown in greenhouses ... one of the few conifers that can be rooted ...and when you buy them.. you should HARDEN THEM OFF .. to sunshine .... in the greenhouse.. they were misted.. perfect water.. peerfect humidity.. etc ... and we dont know how it ended up at your supplier.. etc ... so next time ... slowly introduce it to your ambient surroundings.. before you go slapping it in the ground.. and MAYBE this would be avoided ... see link below about watering ... my bottom line.. minor damage.. for a possible multitude of reasons.. and nothing to lose sleep over.. but dont try to kill it with too much water love ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

Gardengal's addition of genetics into the conversation reminds me....the reason redwood....or to a lesser but still impressive extent, an eastern white pine or a Norway spruce gets so tall is duration of main growth event. So, to take things in the opposite direction, a flowering crab will never be 100 ft. tall. The genetics of the plant don't allow for the rapid type of growth required in trees that eventually will attain great height. At the same time, the crab's growth will slow once it reaches its 20 or so ft., cultivar-dependent. A coast redwood has the fast growth of youth, but is able to maintain this growth rate far, far into its lifespan. That's how we end up with these very tall trees. They maintain "youthful vigor" long into their lives, growing at rates similar to very young plants. In fact, for a while, people with hidden agendas were talking about how old-growth forests were a "waste" of resources because they aren't growing, are not storing carbon ( as if these people care about such matters) like young forest do, blah blah.....Meanwhile, actual research has shown the opposite; Old-growth forests continue to store carbon-in other words, continue to grow- and in fact store more carbon than an equivalent patch of young forest or plantation. So what I'm rambling about this time is, trees' size is ultimately determined by genetic potential and an environment which meets its needs, the genetic factor allowing for an extended period of growth. But tailoring an answer to some landscape cultivar is obscure in the extreme. Plus, we can't really allow for happenstance; Who knows what might befall a plant in the landscape somewhere? Is next year going to be dry? Who knows? Is another Sandy-like storm coming to the east coast? Beats me. We can provide generalities, but all of the stuff discussed in a forum like this is subject to randomness. It's pretty hard to pin down that tightly.