Do dwarf trees really stay dwarf their whole lifetime?
Heruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years ago
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Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Rootstock Preference (Dwarf, semi-dwarf, or standard)
Comments (3)Thapranksta: Your question is a bit difficult as most orchards do not plant all their apples on one rootstock. Often they use several different ones based on what was available when they bought the trees, what pruning/spacing system they wanted for that orchard block,ect. Sometimes hardiness is an issue. For example hardy standard rootstocks (antonovka, prunifola, ranetka ect) are necessary in super cold regions such as ND,SD, WY,MT ect. Most other areas abandoned standard rootstocks years ago as they grow too tall to easily prune/spray/pick. Easier with dwf or semi-dwarf rootstocks. Often spur-type or low vigor varieties (Jonathan) need to be on a less dwarfing rootstock or they runt out and never amount to anything. I hate the terms dwarf or semi-dwarf as too generic. Orchards years ago in WI where I live switched to using M7 as semi-dwarf and free-standing, however they pruduce tons of root suckers. Now the hot rootstocks are Bud 9 & Nick 29 but these trees must be staked for the life of the tree. M26 is still used (8'-12' tall trees) but more prone to fireblight and can tip in heavy clay soils. Every rootstock has advantages and disadvantages depending on climate, soil type, low density planting or high density planting (Tall spindle) ect. My 17 tree hobby orchard has apples on M7, MM111, and yes even 4 on a standard rootstock. I vase prune heavily on some for height control. Others seem jsut fine. My site is weird as very low nitrogen levels. I have to fertilize heavily on new trees and even lightly on old ones or the leaf color is poor. I find my apple trees do not grow as tall at my site as other sites I have grown at. Hence my need for more vigorous rootstocks. Nobody can make you a good suggestion unless we know what soil type you have, are you willing to stake each tree permanently or want free standing orchard ect. Can you provide more information? When you do purchase your trees, watch out! Many mail order and almost all retail outlets will either list them as dwf, semi-dwf or no listing at all. Always ask what rootstock they are on. Don't buy if they can't tell you. A Mcintosh on M26 will be quite shorter than one on MM111. You cannot properly space your trees if you have no idea what rootstock they are on. In fact, one mail order place I called had Cortland on two different rootstocks. After the trees were harvested, they are all mixed together since both rootstocks are "semi-dwarf". Big difference though when some were on M7 and others on Bud 118....See MoreDwarf Fruit Tree -vs- Pruning Standard Fruit Tree?
Comments (18)Fruitnut, I have 2 methods and I'm sharing my trade secrets here (what the hell- I'm 6 months from 60 and hope to retire in 25 years anyway). I start some plants straight in the ground, planting them way too close in a fenced off area. Planting them close makes maintenance per plant much less expensive given that it's all done by hand (don't ask). For apples in my climate it takes about 3 years to size them up to about 1.5" diameter- at least when planted this close. I carefully dig up these BR and put them in short 20 gallon pots (wide and shallow) in a mix of 1 part peat, 1 composted wood chips or stable waste ( almost pure humus with some carbo lumps) and 1 sand, plus a little wood ash. They limp the first season but I sell them the next for around $180 per. At this point they are bearing, 12' tall and well branched and the foliage is back to mormal. Other trees I transfer to Carl Whitcomb grow bags in real soil and let them grow about another 3 years and sell them for $250 per, or less to contractors. The grow bags I use are his last edition because they allow more root out of the bag and I can grow them without any irrigation at all- even through drought. Irrigation would reduce production by about a year, I'm sure, but in my operation only my potted plants get any and they are set in the soil as well. I always take some trees in the grow bags, remove the bags and put them into 25 Gallon pots with the soil intact but surrounded by my potting mix which allows me to sell some larger trees during the growing season. Surprisingly the soil surrounded by potting mix works very well and you might want to try that method for your trees as the soil gives you much more bang per square inch and costs less. Repotting would require only replacing the artificial soil on the edge of the soil ball. It makes things real heavy though, and my soil is not too fine so I don't know how it would work with a more clay soil but I bet it would work just fine. I'm sure my prices seem outrageous by your regional standards but I'm less than an hour from NYC and here it's more than competitive- it's the best deal around- because I have scores of varieties and they're actually properly shaped for fruit production. They also plug in better than the competitions BB'd trees, especially the ones I have in pots....See Moresemi dwarf apple trees
Comments (6)If you are routinely getting mostly good apples without spray then you are an exceptionally lucky guy. If it were really that easy none of us would waste the time money and energy spraying our trees. Around here, the feral (unsprayed) trees will frequently yield some nice apples, some more so than others. But it rarely adds up to much. 90+% of the fruit will be damaged by insects and disease. If they are not hit too bad, some of those damaged apples can be eaten right away with a bit of carving, and they are great for cider. But you can't store them. and the "passable" ones will still account for under 50% of the yield If you want a consistent supply of clean fruit then you will almost certainly need to deal with spray or bags or both. DR cultivars might reduce the number and types of treatment you need. If you plant a whole bunch of trees and then do nothing to treat them, you may also find that your "old reliable" trees stop giving you any good fruit because your pest/disease pressure is going to rise exponentially from all the new "forage" you supply....See MoreHow well do Standard citrus trees (non-dwarf) do in pots?
Comments (11)Kristimama, Citrus are nearly carefree in the Bay Area, so there is no reason not to grow as many as you like. Fill up your whole yard with them! The only real problem that most people run into is infestations of sucking insects (particularly scales), vectored by the omnipresent Argentine ants. Other than that, you basically just plant them and let them go. Give them some acidifying fertilizer in the winter, and keep your soil healthy through mulching. That's about all you need to do. Calamondins are small, sour citrus fruits. They are generally used for their juice, much like you would use lemons, etc. (You wouldn't eat them out-of-hand, unless you *really* enjoy tart flavors!) Calamondins are essentially everbearing, meaning that they should carry ripe fruit just about all year long. This is a very nice characteristic. It is very handy to be able to pluck a few fruits for squeezing into water, over a piece of fish, etc., at any time! I haven't been following this forum that closely, so I'm not sure why folks here prefer to put citrus in smaller pots. However, I would say that most participants on this board probably don't live in areas where there may be absolutely zero rain for months and months on end. Keeping potted plants going when it is extremely hot and dry can be burdensome, and using large containers like half-barrels will at least minimize this problem....See MoreEmbothrium
7 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years agoForm and Foliage
7 years agoEmbothrium
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agoSara Malone Zone 9b
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agowisconsitom
7 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
7 years agowisconsitom
7 years agoEmbothrium
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoEmbothrium
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoTodd C
7 years agowannabegardnr
7 years agowisconsitom
7 years agoEmbothrium
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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