Help with grout lines and tile cracks in ceramic tiled shower
3 years ago
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- 3 years ago
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BATH...Cracked tiles, cracked grout & moisture in wall
Comments (2)Actually, good chance the wood DID dry out. As it dries it contracts, which would explain the cracking tile. One way or the other, there's movement due to moisture getting to the framing, whether it's from being wet and drying, or after drying out, it's now getting wet again. Either way, it never should've been covered up wet. You don't know how long it was wet, and how much damage has been done top the wood. Sometimes, there's more damage than can be seen while it's wet. No real way to tell for sure without opening up the wall, but then again, it's certainly a moisture/ movement problem involving the framing, and the only way to solve that is to pull it all apart and redo it....See MoreHelp Please-grout cracking/tile separating in new bathroom
Comments (9)Curb movement like that is typically from a wood-built curb (stacked 2-by lumber, for example) that is absorbing moisture and expanding/swelling. How is moisture getting to the curb? Could be one of several things. Not sure how conscientious the installer was in terms of making sure the shower pan membrane is sloped (versus laying the membrane flat on a flat subfloor), or how he detailed the membrane over the curb. It's possible there are nails through the top or inside faces of the curb (and thus through the membrane) and moisture is getting through the nail holes. It's possible that he built you a perfect curb but used wet pressure-treated wood and the PT wood is warping as it dries. Or your house is on a slab, and he put the wood right on the slab. Moisture through the slab is causing the wood curb to expand. So it could be one of several things. It should be fairly easy to diagnose though, as the tiles are popping off on the outside face of the curb. They'll have to be removed eventually to diagnose and repair. When they are removed, take a look to see what's in there. Post photos if you can. To give you a bit of an education as to how a typical CPE-membraned shower with a wood curb is built, check out Harry's pictorial. Note that Harry's membrane is "draped" over the wood curb. That there are no nails/screws on the top or inside face of the curb. That the lathe (wire mesh) is bent in a "U" shape and it's simply the inverted "U" bends that hold it over the curb. Again, there are no fasteners through the lathe and into the top or inside face of the curb. I have seen instances where the membrane gets draped over the wood curb, then the installer nails cement board on the three faces of the curb and tiles on the cement board. Not good. Again, nails through the membrane on the top and inside face are a no-no. I don't see screws through the bottom track of your door frame that go into the curb. That's good. Best, Mongo...See MoreGrout issues with shower floor tile and wall tile installs
Comments (8)Ok so, so sorry but here: Master- 1) Lay-out is awful. You shouldn't have that small tile at the inside (a pro balances the lay-out prior to install). Yes your concerns regarding uneven and improper slope are valid. Pretty basic standard for tile installation, especially on a shower floor where proper pitch to drain is imperative. Being concerned about the damage occurring from tearing it out is a mute point as you will have major issues as it is. 2) As others have stated, that should be caulk and always caulk at change of planes, not grout. And no, it isn't common for professionals to install on a surface that isn't plumb and flat. If either the general or the tile contractor do not shim and level to prepare for tile, then standards are being ignored and you have a problem. It's poorly done. 3) That is the very cheapest drain assembly available (if it was speced and this was a very low end build, then maybe that was to be expected but as a customer you should be aware of the quality of the product being used). Very unprofessional job around the drain. It should be cut so nicely around the drain that you don't even notice the grout. It is definitely not an "average job". In the tile world, we would call it a "hack job". Guest - 1) Multiple possibilities for the grout pinholes, all related to skill and craftsmanship. Could you dab grout in those places and hope it looks a little better? If you bought a new car would you ask them to fix the paint or dents before you drove it off the lot? You shouldn't need to do patch work on something new. 2) Caulk but remove grout first. 3) Caulk and color match, not clear. Clear is a bad idea there. Now, I'm sorry if we sound harsh. It's an exciting time to move into a new home. If consumers do not hold the builders to basic standards, there will continue to be builders that take short cuts and perform sub-standard work. ALL builds should adhere to basic standards and there is no excuse for what you are seeing. (I hate to say it but I'd be concerned about the methods used to build and waterproof the wet areas, what you can't see, based on what you can see). One place to start is to ask your contractor to document how all aspects of the tile work conform to TCNA industry standards....See MoreTile shower curb grout cracked, hollow inside. What are my options?
Comments (8)The problem is that they used grout at all, especially on a surface that's got some flex. You should always use sanded caulk when you've got a change in plane like that. Check the tile section of your local box store-- they'll have many colors and you'll probably find a close match. Check online for reviews of the color you're thinking of buying before you go to get a sense of the true color-- the labels aren't very informative. They should also have colored silicone in the same section which would work too and will probably last longer, especially if that curb gets a lot of water. Silicone is a little harder to work with though, and doesn't have the sand in it to replicate the look of grout....See MoreRelated Professionals
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