The question is always "what are you going to use it for?" Meaning, are you going to use it for cutting on? Or absolutely not? Maybe there are some here with much more experience than I have, but the one's I have done and the research I have found is that you can seal it off, make it last a good long time looking good....but you can't (or shouldn't) cut on it for obvious reasons. If it is going to be used for direct cutting, mineral oil. Quite a bit at the beginning, like twice daily. Then as it starts to saturate, spread out the maintenance. Once a day, then per week, then once per month to three months. If it's dry, then it definitely needs to be oiled. It's not much to do, it's very easy. Pour it on and get some micro fiber to spread it out. Simple.

Thanks to all of you!! I should have explained: The maple is 1 1/2" wide cut on the EDGE grain. This is more resistant to wear, is a longer grain, won't be blotchy. Each piece is the length of the side. There are no glue joints within the work area. Forty years ago, I used a product that was food grade and made the maple more golden, warmer, deeper. I can't find it any more. It was either based on Tung Oil or Mineral Oil. That old counter top is in great condition and being used in the laundry room. I use unfinished unsealed wood cutting boards for raw meat, veggies, fruit. I roll my pastry and knead my bread on the counter - which is meticulously scraped and cleaned. I have the underside of the butcher block to experiment with! Cookncarpenter: I'll try the tea on a scrap. Thanks for your kind words on the cabinet work! luckyblueeye: Thanks! The house is Arts & Crafts. There cherry clavos on the cherry, but on the island, they are stained black for a more furniture look. aurora Tee: Thanks for the link! Michael: I was thinking about the Boos! I'll try it on a scrap piece. Design Loft: Good info. Rest assured, I would never use a regular stain. I'm leaning toward the Mineral Oil. I'm going to try that on some scrap and also try a Mineral Oil and Beeswax combo. And some Tung Oil. Sophie Wheeler: All good points. I used to own a custom lumber milling shop. I learned that working with the properties of the wood you could often get away with the impossible. It's been a long time so I've asked the community for input and appreciate everything you have said.

Kats737, we love the butcherblock for food prep. I do a lot of cooking and the kitchen is small so the butcherblock island with sink is the surface I use for cutting, baking, etc. The other counters are pretty much filled with kitchen stuff, coffee stuff, onion basket, dishrack, etc. These counters were laminate and served well for almost 25 years but now has some problems. What has spurred us on to this remodel is the water/wood problem. The drop in sink has created a perimeter of mold and when hubby checked under the sink lip, the wood has rotted. After a lot of research and questioning of vendors as well as our contractor, the consensus is that even when precautions are enacted, water rots wood! The only iption was to forgo the sink and we both decided in a small kitchen where we often cook together the 2nd sink was really helpful. I decided on the leathered Silver Pearl granite, our fabricator picked up the slab yesterday. I don’t like the look of a mottled polished granite in a vintage kitchen and I would have much prefered soapstone but my main goas in the premodel were maintaining the vintage look while making upkeep as easy as possible and the soapstone care made me nervous. (I have to say the laminate did fit the criteria of carefree). The leathered granite is very muted and with only a sealer applied is more of a soft charcoal rather than a harsh black. So we have decided to keep the maple but edge the prep sink in the island with the granite. The other counters will be granite as well. I have seen photos of this and can’t say I love the look but in the end will have to compromise esthetics for practicality. Our fabricator doesn’t see a problem with shimming as necessary to even out the surfaces. The prep sink is at the end of the island facing the big sink/counter area so I am hoping there will be some visual continuity between the granite surround and the counters. Also for practicality’s sake the sink is an undermount so visually the sink will have a smaller profile. I have thought over this pretty carefully and decided that “can’t teach an old dog new tricks” applies to us. That maple wood surface is so practical for our kitchen habits. Here is a photo that sort of shows the result but in a modern kitchen. And a photo of the sample granite with our butcherblock. i will post a photo when the kitchen is finished as I spent hours looking for one that would approximate our kitchen. Let us know what you decide and post a photo of your kitchen now if you can.

That looks like walnut. Maple is harder and cheaper and quite a workhorse but walnut is MUCH prettier. You want walnut. :) A few years ago I ordered a small cherry countertop from https://hardwood-lumber.com/ and was really pleased with the quality and communication. At the very least, their website gives you prices and pictures to compare!