Opinions on Silver Granite vs Butcher Block for Island
cercis47
3 years ago
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megs1030
3 years agocercis47
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Wide island with butcher-block top- can Boos be joined??
Comments (9)Thanks folks. I just spoke with a local company who can make the whole thing for me for a lot less than Boos (they also sell Boos). I can get either end-grain (like the typical butcher block) or plank. He recommended plank, as it looks more like a big farmhouse table, which sounds like a nice look. Our kitchen is quite small (an L shape about 10 x 10 at one side of a 20' by 16' room with fairly low ceilings...) and this island is going to be pretty massive in the space. So maybe a farmhouse table look is more appropriate? Do you think a 5' x 4 1/2' island is just too big for this space? I am considering cherry, on cherry cabinets, with a 10" overhang on the outside for stools. Prices quoted were $725 plank; $925 endgrain... about half what granite costs around here. So I'll do granite on the regular counters only. What do you think???...See Morewill kids trash a butcher block island top?
Comments (8)Hah, Budge, I could have written your post, down to drilling on it! That's the one thing that still stands out after 20 years, the 1/4" wide drill bit hole! But I put hot pots on it all the time and it hasn't scorched. Our hard maple slab (not end grain BB) looks really warm and nice, at 20 years old. It isn't perfect looking, but we never tried to keep it that way. We gave up oiling it a few years after we bought it and have only sanded it once. As Budge said, many things have been spilled on it and it just fades after a while. As far as it being unsanitary, some years ago people believed that and everyone was switching over to plastic cutting boards. Then studies started to show that wood was actually more sanitary than the plastic. Unless you're going to put raw meet on it, I wouldn't worry about it. I think some people go overboard with this sanitary thing anyway. The liquid antibiotic soaps you see everywhere now are actually leaving us more vulnerable to germs. They succeed in killing off the weak bacteria, eventually creating superbacteria that are resistant. The soap goes down the drains and gets into the waterways, affecting everything. My 2 cents....See MoreButcher Block vs Corian Countertops
Comments (18)I will try to get a picture taken here in a couple days. We've got the countertops off right now so we could cut out the sink holes on the router table. Another beautiful thing about wood. They are light enough that I can move the perimeters by myself, and two of us can move the island top. I think it weighs around 90 lbs. We've had them out a few times now for construction projects so they wouldn't get dented and scratched with tools and such. We used a marine varnish (can't remember the name off hand) just right around the edges of the sink where we thought water might be an issue on top, bottom, and edge, no problems when we took the drop in sink out, but will be doing undermount with the new sinks. If it looks like we might start having problems, we'll do something other than oil over the entire top, but I don't see it ever being a problem. I'm pretty religious about oiling in the most used area. Less often on the seating side. I think there are 3 different logs in our kitchen, and the darkest was kept for the tops, but walnut fades unlike most wood, so my floors are already lighter than when they went in a little over a year ago. I haven't noticed a significant change in the tops yet. I do believe oil makes for a deeper darker finish than the polyurethane which brings out the oranges and reds more. The knotholes in the floor are by far the darkest and prettiest areas. I took a picture of the most used area of the kitchen floor, where we had the table and chairs. We moved them to the kitchen when we ripped out the dining room floors and just now moved the table back to the dining room (procrastination is what we do best). Now that the table and chairs are out, I will probably lightly sand and recoat that area of the floor. All scratches seem to be in the finish (oil based polyurethane) and not into the wood itself. I can't feel any of them when I rub my fingers over them anyways. Not to bad for 5 chairs being scooted around every day. I'm sure there are thousands of tiny scratches that aren't noticeable to the naked eye, but if I can't see them with the sunlight beaming in, they don't exist lol. The countertop scratches aren't as noticeable, most likely do to the fact that the oil actually soaks into the surface, whereas the poly sits on top of the wood. I'm sure there are probably knife marks where I've neglected to reach for the cutting board or where I've slid a heavy cast iron pan, but I certainly don't go looking for them and none are big or deep enough to draw attention. I'm pretty sure at one point I found a child's drawing somewhat imprinted into the top, but I've either forgotten about it, or it's gotten enough abuse that it blends. I circled the biggest scratches in the picture, because I'm not sure how big it will be when it posts. They are where the two chairs that were unknowingly missing a pad on a leg sat. There are other smaller scratches that don't pick up in the picture, but again, not noticeable unless you get down on your hands and knees and look for them....See MoreButcher block island top -- Advice needed!!!
Comments (39)I have an thick end-grain square butcherblock that sits next to the sink and is the non-meat cutting/chopping worksurface we use on an almost daily basis. It gets wiped off several times and then gets a more vigorous cleaning at the end. I have another thinner board I use for cutting meat that is easier to scrub clean in the sink. When I first got the block I drenched it in pure tung oil thinned with citrus solvent. Let it soak in. Put more on. Repeat, repeat. Let it dry until it didn't smell. What happens over time is that the center area where I work the most starts to look "dry" like untreated wood. There's enough tung oil in it that I don't worry about it drying out or splitting but aesthetically it looks like a well-used block. Maybe twice a year I apply a coat of thinned tung oil over the whole thing to keep it sealed. I much prefer the soaked-in protection that the tung oil gives than the surface protection that frequently-applied mineral oil does. So to me there are two considerations: how well sealed is it to protect it from splitting and how does it look. The tung oil will give the best long-term protection but if you use it it will look used. If you want it to look "wet", then mineral oil and/or wax will give that look on the surface....See Morecercis47
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