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Maple butcher block owners - love it or hate it??

11 years ago

I am looking for advice from those who have wood counter tops. I love the look, but everyone warns me against the upkeep. We are looking at maple butcher block for our island, which will have a sink and dishwasher in it. I've searched through the archives and can't find a thread discussing this topic - would love any advice on the reality of the upkeep. I have 2 little kids, and tend to bang around in the kitchen. I have no desire for something that stays pristine, but I don't want to have to worry about it warping or cracking either.

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Comments (6)

PRO
Salmon Falls Cabinetry
11 years ago
The question is always "what are you going to use it for?"

Meaning, are you going to use it for cutting on? Or absolutely not?

Maybe there are some here with much more experience than I have, but the one's I have done and the research I have found is that you can seal it off, make it last a good long time looking good....but you can't (or shouldn't) cut on it for obvious reasons.

If it is going to be used for direct cutting, mineral oil. Quite a bit at the beginning, like twice daily. Then as it starts to saturate, spread out the maintenance. Once a day, then per week, then once per month to three months.

If it's dry, then it definitely needs to be oiled. It's not much to do, it's very easy. Pour it on and get some micro fiber to spread it out. Simple.
breezygirl
11 years ago
This thread might help. Those of us with wood counters discuss how they're fairing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood counters usage discussion
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Comments (4)
I think it held up fairly well, as we did not cut directly on the butcher block. It did get stained from time to time but we were always able to get the stains out, or if there were some really bad ones, we sanded and re-oiled. Once or twice over a 30 year period we did a fairly extensive sanding. The only stains that were tough were berries (we grow raspberries and do a lot of processing) and the other really fatal mistake is leaving an ammonia bottle on the wood -- produces a dark ring that is hard to get out. But, I liked them so well that we are going to use butcher block again. I just like the softer surface for working on -- for many of the same reasons that many people like wood floors.
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Comments (3)
I have a butcher block island top. It is a movable island that i got from a commercial supplier. I have used it now for about 4 yrs. It only has an oil finish on it... I rub mineral oil into once in a great while. I love it. I do not chop food on it as I use it mostly for a bread dough working area and the odor of chopped food would taint the wood. I also have a teak countertop for the "L" of my kitchen that contains the main undermount sink and the gas cook top. It has a Waterlox finish that I have applied when the counter top was new, 9 yrs ago. It has seen very hard wear and has held up beautifully. Again I do not chop food on it. Waterlox is a tung oil base also. You might want to look at their web site and read about the product. There are several of us on here who have used it. Also several of us have various wood counters around sinks as well as islands and some cut on them and some don't. You will not find very many folks dislike the wood :) It is a great forgiving surface...all you do it sand and it is new..voila. If you would like pics you can go to my Photobucket acct...link below. Hope this helps. c ( the food pics album shows the island) Here is a link that might be useful: Final Kitchen pics
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Making a Butcher Block a Warm Slightly Darker Shade
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Comments (11)
Thanks to all of you!! I should have explained: The maple is 1 1/2" wide cut on the EDGE grain. This is more resistant to wear, is a longer grain, won't be blotchy. Each piece is the length of the side. There are no glue joints within the work area. Forty years ago, I used a product that was food grade and made the maple more golden, warmer, deeper. I can't find it any more. It was either based on Tung Oil or Mineral Oil. That old counter top is in great condition and being used in the laundry room. I use unfinished unsealed wood cutting boards for raw meat, veggies, fruit. I roll my pastry and knead my bread on the counter - which is meticulously scraped and cleaned. I have the underside of the butcher block to experiment with! Cookncarpenter: I'll try the tea on a scrap. Thanks for your kind words on the cabinet work! luckyblueeye: Thanks! The house is Arts & Crafts. There cherry clavos on the cherry, but on the island, they are stained black for a more furniture look. aurora Tee: Thanks for the link! Michael: I was thinking about the Boos! I'll try it on a scrap piece. Design Loft: Good info. Rest assured, I would never use a regular stain. I'm leaning toward the Mineral Oil. I'm going to try that on some scrap and also try a Mineral Oil and Beeswax combo. And some Tung Oil. Sophie Wheeler: All good points. I used to own a custom lumber milling shop. I learned that working with the properties of the wood you could often get away with the impossible. It's been a long time so I've asked the community for input and appreciate everything you have said.
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help with maple butcher block?
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Comments (34)
Thanks for the update, sorry to hear it was such a painful experience! I used to use mineral oil and got tired of applying it once a month. Highly recommend the Real Milk Paint Company's Half & Half product (Pure Tung Oil cut with 50% Citrus Solvent, see link below). No tint to it, and the finish lasts longer than mineral oil. In my experience, you just don't want to cake on a thick layer all at once, so I apply a couple thin coats once or twice a year. Would you mind sharing the name of the tinted product you had used? Just curious to know what it was. The Real Milk Paint Company - Half & Half
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User
11 years ago
we put in a Boos maple butcher block island top in our last house. Used it and did not baby it. Cut on it sometimes, the kids did crafts there, etc. Just kept it well oiled with mineral oil. I would use it again.
hosenemesis
11 years ago
I have 2" thick maple. I have had my kitchen for 12 years and have sanded and refinished once. Three counters are polyurethaned with a satin finish and they need no care. The small section near the stove is oiled for cutting and prep work, and I re-oil it about once a year now. I have lived with tile, stone, and formica, and these are by far my favorite counters for ease of care, functionality, looks, and warmth.
oaktree_35
Original Author
11 years ago
I am not planning on cutting on it, so I think I would seal it off. I was thinking of having it on the island, and granite on the parameter, but maybe I should consider doing wood on the perimeter (away from the water) and granite on the island. Does anyone have an opinion on that aesthetically? It seems like wood is usually used for the island, but maybe that's assuming the sink is on the perimeter. Thanks for your input!
pirula
11 years ago
if you search "tung oil" you'll find a lot of discussions as well.

I've had cherry counters for over 6 years. Zero issues.

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