help with maple butcher block?
3 years ago
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Butcher block counter help
Comments (5)Thanks so much. This site is so helpful! We will not do what we were asking. We were thinking of buying a maple table and cutting it in half for counter top. We are now planning to get proper butcher block....See MoreHelp with butcher block thickness
Comments (8)Following. Jess, we are also insetting a working butcher block in our granite. However you wish to install it is a personal choice regarding aesthetics, but I think Joseph's comment regarding the overhang sounds excellent. We intend for our butcher block to rise above the countertop approx 1/2" - 3/4" - no more as I don't want it so high it's uncomfortable to prep on (this was pointed out to me when I posted a question on the subject). Remember to acclimate your butcher block before installation - about 5 days I think, as it is similar to hardwood. This link might be informative regarding installation: LINK Joseph, thank you for chiming in. I've a question for you which might also help the OP: I've read it's important to be able to reach under the butcher block or, with a 'closed top' cabinet, be able to remove the butcher block to oil it underneath. What is a closed top cabinet?; and is the silicone used as you mention a requirement, impeding me from removing the block on occasion to oil the underside? Also, I prefer the look a a straight edge rather than the 1/4" round where the 2 material meed - is that possible or advisable? Thanks for any help!...See MoreBest way to refurbish maple butcher block table top
Comments (6)I'd plane the surface because it's so much faster and more pleasant than sanding; but if you don't have a good smooth plane that you know how to sharpen then sanding with a random orbit sander--preferably one with a vacuum attachment to contain the dust. Use one of your better N95 masks while sanding either way. If there are deep stains that you need to remove start with 80, then 120, 180, 220, 320 grit. (I'd do one farther than Klem, but his suggestion will work too, it comes down to personal preference) If the damage is superficial you can start at 120. Don't try to skip grits as it will end up taking forever. (and use your sandpaper as if someone else is paying for it!) Be sure to sand with each grit untill all of the sanding marks from the previous grit are gone. Check by wetting the surface with denatured alcohol or water; if you see swirls keep sanding. When you get to the last grit dampen the entire surface, let it dry and then sand very lightly with fresh paper at the same grit to knock off the "fuzzies" that will pop up -- better than than when you apply a water-based finish if you go that route. This is a long, unpleasant task, expect to spend many hours sanding. An alternative is to take it to a cabinet shop who has a wide belt sander to do all the initial work. You'll still want to do the finer sanding steps by hand. Finish will depend on intended use. For a durable utilitarian finish I'd use polyurethane or a traditional varnish like Waterlox. I prefer oil-based, but that will give you an amber tone like the table has currently. Target Coatings and General Finishes make water-based poly's and conversion varnishes that look a whole lot better than the big box store brands; some can be brushed on some need to be sprayed. Not staining is a really good choice on maple! Klem-- I use a card scraper when I want the surface to look perfect!...See MoreMaple Butcher block - photos?
Comments (4)People generally recommend you use mineral oil, or use oil and bees wax if you actually use it (as opposed to having it as a table surface. If you put regular finish on it, some color will change with the finish and over time, the maple under the finish will golden. The finishes are causing some pictures of maple to be different. Maple is a natural product, so some color differences between pieces are to be expected - John boos has some magnificent maple - looks like every piece in the counter was cloned. John Boos also makes commercial counters with lesser color standards. Other companies may also, but I'm only familiar with Mr. Boos. Some makers that I've seen over time allow knots and other wood defects. Naked maple is the lightest but also the weakest at resisting stains. Whether you can have that depends on both the weather and the natural tidiness of the family. Cleans up with water or light soapy water and a scrubby. I live in a high humidity location and have steam heat and I can get away with naked. Every once in a while, I will hit it with very hot water, let it rest a minute, then scrubby and rinse. Maple is naturally disinfectant when dry - meaning that as the counter dries, it all dies. Oil, or even better oil and bees wax, will protect the surface from humidity issues and also staining. Still cleans up with water, or slightly soapy water - cloth or scrubby. I would suggest a more through cleaning once a year or so - equivalent to a light sanding - to strip old wax and oil off. It will also remove any aging from the finish....See More- 3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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