I understand you love the fresco walls, but they don't go with your other choices that you show. Since painted walls are the easiest to change, can you see your way to repainting them? You can fresco paint other walls in your home so that you still have the fresco walls you want.

I've edited the heading and removed 'Staining'. I'm looking to DARKEN the maple but not by much and perhaps I used an incorrect word. Thank you for your comments!

It’s not going to happen. It will amber a bit on its own. But any wood used as a food prep real butcher block can not be altered in color. Because regular maintenance involves sanding and coating with mineral oil.

If you want darker wood counters, you need a species that is naturally dark. Like walnut or cherry. But both of those have issues with food contact and technically should be decorative use only. Or very brief special occasion use as a cutting board only.

Mineral oil is the best thing to finish a countertop or cutting board. It is 100% food safe. Bees wax is also food safe, but not durable enough as far as I'm concerned. The mineral oil will ever so lightly, darken the maple, but probably not to what you are thinking of. Do Not use a standard stain on it like I've seen many people do. One cut, ding, etc, and you now have different coloured area as it will appear white-ish due to exposing the raw wood again.

Mineral oil can be purchased from pharmacies or it be be found in some finish suppliers. You can purchase smaller bottles from big box stores, but you typically will pay more than simply going to the pharmacy. You can also find it through Richelieu seen here (sorry, don't know if the US Richelieu carries it or not). You'll have to get a cabinetmaker or someone who deals with them to order it as they typically won't sell direct to consumer.

I haven't used it on large expanses of maple, but I have used John Boos Block Mystery Oil and their Board Cream on several cutting boards that I've made and they darken the wood a decent amount, and are food safe. You'll want to protect that butcher block counter anyway, and this might get it a bit darker and closer to what you're looking for.

Sophie, this past year I refinished an unstained walnut butcher block to use as a top on a coffee bar area. By refinish I mean that I removed all the previous mineral oil until it was bare (sanded clean) and then applied General Finishes oil based sealer (ARM-R-Seal). This coffee bar is not used for food prep, but on occasion I may place a croissant, piece of fruit, etc. on it. I have no fear of contaminants. Maybe I should?

So given this, here is my question as we see the OP's inquiry from time to time. If a person NEVER, EVER uses the countertop for cutting, chopping, pastry dough work, etc., why can't a finish such as the GF ARS be used? If the cook always grabs a cutting board to prep on, what is the harm that the apples, lettuce, etc. sit on top of the butcher block while awaiting their fate on the board?

I have never understood any countertop being used as a prep surface. Sorry, I just can't. Cutting boards are one of my favorite and most used tools in the kitchen.

Now staining that maple will be a big pain and it must be absolutely sealed with something like the ARS or another poly product. If you stain, you can use a pre-conditioner first (GF makes one) but even then it will not be fun. Don't close up the grain by sanding down to 220. The most you should use is 150.

Send the folks at GF a message on their Facebook page. They are more than happy to help.

https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/arm-r-seal-oil-based-topcoat

This does not answer your question....but can I just say how much I love the painted clavos detail in your whitish cabinets!!

Mineral oil will darken Maple somewhat, as will time and exposure to daylight.
You could try a Tea stain, which I have seen beautiful results on Cherry,
but given the dense grain of Maple it may not get much darker, but certainly worth a try!

Love your cabinets and details! Nice work!

Thanks to all of you!!

I should have explained: The maple is 1 1/2" wide cut on the EDGE grain. This is more resistant to wear, is a longer grain, won't be blotchy. Each piece is the length of the side. There are no glue joints within the work area.

Forty years ago, I used a product that was food grade and made the maple more golden, warmer, deeper. I can't find it any more. It was either based on Tung Oil or Mineral Oil. That old counter top is in great condition and being used in the laundry room.

I use unfinished unsealed wood cutting boards for raw meat, veggies, fruit. I roll my pastry and knead my bread on the counter - which is meticulously scraped and cleaned.

I have the underside of the butcher block to experiment with!

Cookncarpenter: I'll try the tea on a scrap. Thanks for your kind words on the cabinet work!

luckyblueeye: Thanks! The house is Arts & Crafts. There cherry clavos on the cherry, but on the island, they are stained black for a more furniture look.

aurora Tee: Thanks for the link!

Michael: I was thinking about the Boos! I'll try it on a scrap piece.

Design Loft: Good info. Rest assured, I would never use a regular stain. I'm leaning toward the Mineral Oil. I'm going to try that on some scrap and also try a Mineral Oil and Beeswax combo. And some Tung Oil.

Sophie Wheeler: All good points. I used to own a custom lumber milling shop. I learned that working with the properties of the wood you could often get away with the impossible. It's been a long time so I've asked the community for input and appreciate everything you have said.

You could research AFM Oil Wax, Osmo products or Rubio Monocoat. I just finished a cherry butcher block countertop with the AFM Oil Wax & it came out beautifully.

Good luck and show some pictures when you get done!