Confusion at the gas pump
Lars
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Confused heat pump duct work
Comments (1)are they upsizing the unit? what size do you currently have? hard pipe ducts won't condensate if they are air sealed & insulated. granted old hard pipe ducts weren't often sealed, but minimizing leakage at take off at plenum & at cut in ceiling to install the supply boxes does a lot to minimize leakage. if they haven't rusted out in 20 years... unless they have visible rust..it sounds like bs to me. but I haven't seen the duct system. if the ducts are in bad shape..then $2500 isn't a bad price, but I'd want it to include replacing supply plenum. and mastic seal of all duct collars, equipment to plenum joints, and supply box to ceilings. both new and existing R/A should also be mastic sealed for this price. it isn't that the material is expensive...it is the labor... I like the 15-17 SEER range for heat pumps. kind of the sweet spot for performance & efficiency without all the added costs to go 18-20 SEER. with this unit you'll have a decent return on investment. houses built in the 1970's usually have minimal insulation & are very leaky. sealing air leakage & insulating the attic would also be a good investment. and may lower size of hvac. staging the heat strip so that it isn't all used at once is a money saver. investing in a variable speed air handler is also a good choice. best of luck....See MoreSeattle- Heat Pump/Gas Furnace vs AC/Gas Furnace
Comments (13)You should definitely be pricing with just heat pump. I live in NC which probably is a bit colder in the winter. We get down to the teens but only 15 nights a year maybe. Our winter average low is about 30. Under 10 degrees is definitely a news story. I have 5000 sq ft. I'm looking at my NG bill of $30. I have dual fuel and seer 16 heat pumps. Last winter was very cold and I spent about $700 with $200 being gas. This winter is going to be $120 in gas. My electric rates are similar to yours without the first 1000 discount. What is my point? Your gas usage will likely be $100 a year. Even if that were replaced with all heating strips, you'd be saving $200 a year or so. Since it would probable be 80% heat pump still, the dual fuel is only saving you $40 a year. So a $2500 furnace to save $40 a year seems a little crazy (on dollars alone). Turns out for me, it is probably worth it but only marginally so. I have a 90% (which you should be able to do as mine is basement with horizontal PVC exhaust). It probably saves $60-$70 on an average year. Probably cost $2000 (new house - I can't remember). What is that a 30 year payback (or never if you count interest or NG rates increase)? You do get some flexibility and you can setback at will with dual fuel. That is worth something....See Moreconfused- heat pump vs. standard A/C
Comments (10)for Speedymonk speedy, I live in Southeast and also have a dual fuel Trane-same as yours, XL14i(R-410a) paired with an XV90 furnace. I really wanted the XL15i but it was just being introduced and only available in R-22 which I did not want. I probably should have gone with the XV80 furnace but kind of hedged as this was my first experience with a HP. I knew though that all was OK since my wife has never complained about the HP since it most likely performs about 90+% of heating chore based on my area's climate and relatively mild winters. I estimate I used about 60-70 therms of nat gas last winter. Savings over 100% nat gas heating vs heat pump heating est at around 35%. No regrets with the HP. Trane though is really falling behind in tax credit qualifying condensors both AC and HPs. IMO...See Moreheat pump/gas furnace or AC/gas furnace
Comments (17)The DOE has worksheets that can help you calculate the relative cost of heating and cooling with different systems using your current energy costs. Of course you need to predict the relative costs over the next decade or two to really tell what is best. How is your crystal ball working? I would like to clear up a couple of common misconceptions. One type of heat does not dry a house in the winter any more than another. Leaky house envelopes dry houses. Heat by flame of some sort might dry a house more because they draw more outside air in if there is not a source of outside combustion air. That would be the only mechanism. There is nothing special about heat pumps in poorly-insulated, leaky homes. No heat or air conditioning source works as well in that situation as well as they do in tighter, well-insulated homes....See Morefoodonastump
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