Any ideas for a burnt-on mess?
sjerin
2 years ago
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Seed selection - reseeding burnt lawn
Comments (19)Scott, I'm a little confused about the watering/well issue, but I'm hoping you'd be able to keep the seeds moist for at least a month. Also a little confused about the trees issue. I would not recommend this blend for even light shade but you say your lawn is all sun. I take that to mean daily rotation still provides plenty of sunlight despite the trees on both sides. Very possible, so I wanted to make sure shade is not an issue for several hours a day. Midnight Princeton Kingfisher You can purchase from Pawnee Buttes Seed pawneebuttesseed.com 800-782-5947 ask for Glenn Tell him you want sod quality seeds You only need about 2 pounds/1000 sqft A little more to have some left over It hurts to know you're planting these seeds into a mixed lawn. LOL 1. Get a soil test (scroll down for info). Call your nearest county extension service for a test kit and sampling instructions. It will likely take two weeks for results. If you need to apply sulfur, lime, or any other amendment per test recommendation (that is not applied in Step 5), you can do it after seeding if you don't get results back in time. 2. Mow to within one and half inches, but mow it down gradually. Cut off 1/3 the grass blade and another 1/3 three or four days later. Repeat if necessary. 3. Rake it up 4. Core aerate or cheat and apply Nitron A-35 to relieve soil compaction. 5. Fertilize 6. Sow seeds (slit seeding is best) 7. Topdress 1/4 inch layer compost, peat moss, or clean straw (weed-free). (One cu. yard/1000 sqft). 8. water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week. Starting off, the schedule supplies roughly 1/4 inch of water, then increases that amount while decreasing frequency of application at the same time. Like practically everything that concerns lawn care, this schedule is a general guideline and should be modified to accommodate your specific conditions. The lengths of time should be modified if you have an automatic sprinkler system since that will not take as long to provide adequate moisture. So, decrease amount of water (time) but maintain frequency as is. The tuna cans test is recommended. If it is still especially warm, you may want to irrigate 3 times a day (10-15 minutes if necessary) for that first couple weeks. Your objective is to keep the upper 1 inch of soil moist and not let the seeds dry out. 9. First mowing is when the new grass reaches two inches. However, the existing grass will be considerably taller. To prevent damage to the old and new grass, you'll have to mow down gradually again to the point of mowing 1/3 off the new grass. You do want to get the new grass mowed early at this time in order to promote tillering. Then, you want to gradually raise the mowing height to desired length of 2.5 inches. Higher if you prefer....See MoreWretched Mess is a mess!
Comments (15)Hmm, I was kind of attracted to Wretched Mess just for the adventure of seeing what it would produce. Not that I have room for another brug! Sorry to hear yours is behaving badly. With our unusual and violent weather I've had a time getting flowers, however, both Cherub and Heloise are budding now, and I expect Santa Rosa to produce another flush in the coming month. Peach Versicolor is doing absolutely nothing!! Of course it's anyone's guess as to how much longer they can stay outside. I could get a cold snap anytime now and have to drag them all in. Which is why, having seen some whitefly yesterday, I will give them all a dose of systemic insecticide to prevent bringing the nasties in with them. I am quite impressed with my deep pink mandevilla and lavender lady passionflower right now tho. They're going crazy blooming. Diane Oh yes, the tomatoes are finally hitting their stride too! Time to make another tomato tart....See MoreNew Walls a Mess - Any Ideas
Comments (1)You could get a better drywaller. Using the proper primer and paint will not help if the patching and seams are actual humps. The good primers and paint will only make them look worse. The best thing to use on crappy drywall is a high build primer or cheap flat paint with a high chalk content that will hide the seams the best because the paint film is thick. Anything with a sheen will highlight poor drywall, especially when the sunlight comes in....See MoreAny idea what is on this?
Comments (3)I have tried stripper...two kinds and neither seemed to get anywhere. And the problem is I really can't take the L shaped bench outside. It's too large and would require taking it apart and then it won't sit on it's own. Also, I don't have an area to work on it at unless it's in the driveway and every time I even thought about it, they would call for rain or something. It would take a few days to complete. DH and I have talked about it. I used the PolyShades on the dresser and we like it. I really only used it at that time because they didn't have the regukar stain in the color I wanted. The dresser looks great and I would use PolyShades again. Of course if I hate it, am I really worse off? I'll be back to square one basically. And there is always paint. We have a country style so I have even thought about doing the vertical surfaces in paint and leaving the horizontal areas stained wood. I probably won't start for a few days or so so I'll keep on thinking about it....See MoreKris
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