We too had bad wallpaper covering plaster in our entire house. In one room, the wallpaper was a "pre-pasted" removable kind and came off easily. It would have been dumb to paint over this paper because it was so easy to remove. However, in all the other rooms, the wallpaper was VERY difficult to remove because it was the old variety that came off only in one inch strips. We got several quotes from professionals who refused to touch the wallpaper. At least one professional recommended that we paint the wallpaper. We then tried three different solutions. First, my husband removed the flocked wallpaper in one room. It was very difficult to remove because it was not "removeable" wallpaper but older, heavily pasted paper. He tried every tool for removal, including steaming, scoring, etc. The only tool that worked was a 4 inch razor blade scraper (not 3 in or 5 in according to him!). That was a long process and the walls were in such poor shape that we had to wallpaper over the plaster when we were done. Second Approach: In two other rooms we painted over the wallpaper. In one room, a bedroom, the paint looked great. The painted wallpaper has held up fine for 20 years. Just last year we painted it again with no problems. The second room where we painted over wallpaper was the bathroom. It bothered me to paint the wallpaper in this room because it was poorly wallpapered in the first place. There were several corners where the wallpaper was not flush with the corners, but "wrinkled", for lack of a better term. Because every inch of the room, including the ceiling, was covered with wallpaper, we just painted it. It too has lasted 20 years, but it does not look as good. The paint made the wrinkles more obvious to me. Also, we must have had a leak, because the wallpaper on the ceiling is beginning to bulge. It will have to be redone soon. I am not sure any outsider would have noticed the flaws in this room, but I did. It was a second floor bath, though, so I just lived with it. Third approach: In our dining room, I think we again stripped the wallpaper, but then my husband attempted to plaster the walls himself. BAD IDEA. Although he is very handy, this was a job that he could never get to look good, no matter how many coats he used and how many times he sanded it. (By the way, the sanding made the entire house a mess!) After weeks of trying , he finally gave up. Instead of hiring a professional plasterer, he applied a special wallpaper that was meant to be painted. This wallpaper was like canvas and smoothed out any irregularities and made the wall ready for paint. It still looks great. My advice to you would be to look into the cost of hiring a professional to either plaster or apply the coat of the substance named above and sand it. I am not sure if we ever got a quote for plastering and sanding. If it is cost prohibitive, get the wallpaper that is intended to be used on plaster walls and then paint it.

IMO... You'll have to prime & paint that ceiling! Use a good, Flat white, or LIGHT coordinating color in Flat. Don't put any water or oil Poly up there!! It would be very messy, & impossible to get even. Rule out the Gardz for this as well, although it CAN be used as a primer. Traditional primers would serve better here though. >>> One option...C2 has a "Dead-Flat" paint that might be useful on this ceiling. You could have the White-base tinted to a very light color, and in "dead-flat", it would be very rich up there! I just wouldn't leave the ceiling as smooth Joint-compund only. It's not plaster...it needs to be coated with primer & paint, or any cleaning would be a dusty nightmare! Definately use a 1/2" or 3/4" roller to apply! You'll be re-loading every 5 seconds if using a 1/4"!! These will leave some stipple...unless you're gonna have it sprayed?! Faron

I skim coated a room with great results but a lot of work. Any hints or procedures or references from anyone on how to skim coat? Here's what I did: I thinned all-purpose joint compound to the point where I could use a paint roller and tray to apply it. I used a 24" knife for smoothing; smaller ones as needed. I learned to leave any ridges formed at the ends of the knife to dry and sand out, rather than smooth them out while wet. Additional coats with sanding in between were required, to eliminate bubbles and other blemishes. A light bulb held at the wall helped me see imperfections.

We did veneer plaster for a couple of reasons. In our regional area, no one does it. We had to go to a specialty supplier and order it in. We found someone who trained in Maine to install it and the only reason it was a bit more expensive than drywall is because our original framing was uneven and we ordered 5/8" thick sheets. I had a pretty strong aversion to drywall after the adventures with mold. Veener plaster is freakin' gorgeous, perfectly smooth and we would do it again in a heartbeat. The feel of it perfectly matches the rest of the house - which is all 1920's plaster. Here, people call the supposedly water resistant drywall "blueboard", so I was surprised by what it looked like (gray, gray and more gray) and that it was made up of two slightly different layers and that it is much harder and denser than drywall. It works pretty well as a sound deadener too! @casey Wow, that is really nice!