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Minimal finish to skim coated ceiling - preserving plaster look

16 years ago

I've just finished removing the popcorn ceiling in the upstairs rooms of our new house (I'll post pics and a narrative of the process on the renovation forum in the next few days). I asked my wife what color she'd like me to paint them, and she replied, I thought you were going to leave them as they are! I have to admit, after three skim coats of joint compound put down with a trowel, they look pretty darned good - not quite the burnished look of real plaster, but close. So what should I use to keep the look? I'd like to preserve some of the natural variation in tones that the ceiling now has, although I might want to dial it back a bit in some places; I suppose I could hit those areas with another coat of joint compound if needed. I've seen Gardz mentioned in the other popcorn posts; what does it look like when dry (ie, flat, semigloss, gloss)? Can I add pigment to Gardz? Is it put down with a 1/4" roller like any other primer? No harm in experimenting, I suppose - if it doesn't come out well, a coat of eggshell on top will be a snap.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Ian

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Comments (5)

randymeyer
16 years ago
Gardz dries to a clear low sheen - not flat. I never left it uncovered so I don't know what will happen over time when exposed to the elements and light. If you want clear, try the lowest sheen waterbased polyurethane you can find. I doubt anyone makes a dull waterbased poly.

1/2" roller for priming a ceiling - not 1/4". 3/4" nap is not uncommon.

Flat is best for ceilings - not eggshell - due to the way light washes across ceilings showing every imperfection.
ianb_co
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks for your help! We'll see how it goes...

Ian
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Skim coating the last coat over wallboard was popular in our area in the early seventies, though it wasn't referred to as a level 5 finish. Level 3,4,5 finish wasn't in the terminology of those days. It was popular for a smooth finish as well as the popularity of wall paper hanging. Imo, it never compared to the plaster over blueboard smoothness that Mongo refers to in the n.e. I witnessed plaster over blueboard on cape cod in the eighties and it is awesome. Skim coating over wallboard phased out with texturing and is rare to this day to see a smooth finish out here. Appearently we have an in experienced crew + builder on the op's project and can be corrected by getting an experienced finisher to skim coat the entire project as mentioned by Dumaspup. It doesn't sound like it is a scratch/brown coat/skim coat used, but rather a sordid attempt at skim coating over wallboard with joint compound by inexperienced finishers unfamiliar with the process. Get an experienced finisher in there to clean it up!
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"Skim coating with drywall knives is a nighmare." Yes, we learned this the hard way. A trowel would be easier, although it takes some time to get used to using it. "3. has anyone tried this "Dustless Drywall Hand Sanding System" (see link below) from Home Depot? It attaches to a shop vac and uses a 5 gal tank of water to trap the plastet dust." We rented this machine from HD. We were pleased with the results. It sanded large surfaces smooth with very little effort and kept dust to a minimum as long as the bag is not full and the hose attachments are properly connected. If we should tackle this project again in another room we will use the trowel method or perhaps slightly thinning the compound and rolling it on with a paint roller.
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"The ratio of plaster (a lime based compound that hardens by chemical reaction) to gypsum (a 'mud' made of gypsum and water which dries by evaporation) determines the time one can apply and finish the mix before it chemically hardens." Setting type joint compound hardens by chemical reaction (the same as plaster) and not by drying. There would be no reason to add plaster to a setting type compound. Gauging plaster is mixed with retarders or lime putty to slow the setting time, snce it is very short (less than 10 minutes) and not workable for finishing without being slowed down. The combination of lime putty (weeks to months to fully sure) with plaster produces a reasonable setting time.
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You might run this by the paint forum as well.
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Faron79
16 years ago
IMO...
You'll have to prime & paint that ceiling! Use a good, Flat white, or LIGHT coordinating color in Flat.

Don't put any water or oil Poly up there!! It would be very messy, & impossible to get even. Rule out the Gardz for this as well, although it CAN be used as a primer. Traditional primers would serve better here though.

>>> One option...C2 has a "Dead-Flat" paint that might be useful on this ceiling. You could have the White-base tinted to a very light color, and in "dead-flat", it would be very rich up there!

I just wouldn't leave the ceiling as smooth Joint-compund only. It's not plaster...it needs to be coated with primer & paint, or any cleaning would be a dusty nightmare!

Definately use a 1/2" or 3/4" roller to apply! You'll be re-loading every 5 seconds if using a 1/4"!! These will leave some stipple...unless you're gonna have it sprayed?!

Faron
brickeyee
16 years ago
Plaster does not actually have much (if any) color variation.

It may have a slight tint but is usually a very flat uniform white, unless color was added.
Tinted plaster is very hard to repair and get to match.

Even the poor man coated his plaster walls.
Calcimine was a common cheap finish.

Bare drywall compound is like a sponge and absorbs any liquid that touches it.
It cannot be washed without damaging the surface (AKA 'wet sanding').
If it gets dirty enough it can even be difficult to get primer to stick to the surface (since washing it is going to damage the finish).
ianb_co
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks all. Looks like we'll be painting after all! I'll check out the C2 paints, but in any event, just having the popcorn gone is an unbelievable improvement.

Ian

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