I think if your house is millions of dollars and considered luxury, you should definitely match the quality with a high end wood product. However, I don’t think replacing outdated floors. With trendy lvp could devalue a home? If you stage and do you colors right with what people are looking for in you area should only increase interest. My home is a 5 bed 2.5 bath family house in a middle class neighborhood. I plan on doing lvp through the whole house. I like the fact that it looks like wood and is waterproof. Of course if you can afford wood do it, but the real estate market In my area is crazy homes sell in days. Any type of updating you do adds value in the long run.

OK, so let's get our terminology working here. There are two thicknesses that *seem to be getting in the way. The term 'mil' and the term 'mm'. 1. 'mil' = 1 THOUSANDTHS of an INCH (very small...wear layer thickness) 2. 'mm' = millimeter = 1 thousandths of a METER (1 meter = 3ft) = very close to 1/32 of an inch Great. Now we have a definition of 'mil' vs 'mm'. The LifeProof (sold ONLY at Home Depot...ahem....Home Depot...) is 7 mm thick (the website says 6mm or more). That means it is more than a 1/4 of an INCH thick (it's almost 1/3 of an inch...but that's a weird thing to see). As vinyl goes, that's a middle of the road thickness. The 12 mm THICK vinyl is the SPC stuff like CoreTec (the mineral core makes it thicker). And 12mm is almost 1/2" (it is SUPER close to 0.5 inches). OK...now on to wear layer. The wear layer is what I was talking about with 12mil vs. 20mil. That is the MICRO COATING (super thin....thinner than a piece of paper thin...can't be measured using a hand held tool using the naked eye). That's where I was going with the statement '20 mil' wear layer thickness. First thing's first...please work with a reputable independent flooring company. Home Depot sells toilette paper, paint and chewing gum...and in the back they sell flooring. For me this isn't a place to go shopping if you have many quality requirements for look/feel/wear. If you can by Christmas lights and lawn gnomes at the same store where you purchase your flooring, you might be looking in the wrong place. To be clear, a FLOATING FLOOR is what causes the feeling of 'hollowness' underfoot. That's why the subfloor needs to be flattened to within an inch of it's life! A flat subfloor = a solid feeling floor. Wood can be used in basements so long as it is floated (ahhh....again with the floating = can still bounce and feel hollow under foot). You can have wood so long as you have humidity CONTROL (humidistat built-in to the Heating/cooling system because A/C doesn't always cut it). But again the floor would need to be floated and that is the BIG issue. Floating = hollowness (when done POORLY). So...here are your options: A PERMANENT floor (such as tile, carpet, sheet vinyl, glue down wood, etc) will give you the FEEL you want (solid feeling without being hollow). A permanent floor gets tricky in a basement setting where ground water is an issue. But it still can be done. As Patricia points out, you can use something like DriCor underneath and then nail down the wood. That is totally acceptable. This decision is best done before doors are hung...but it doesn't have to be. Please get out of 'big box' stores and go shopping at your high-end flooring stores. They will not deal in junk. And for a quality vinyl/floating floor product you will be looking at prices that are 2-4 times HIGHER than Home Depot.

Here is the Ravenswood installed. You can see more on our Instagram account. It sometimes pull pink and sometimes gray, but it's a nice saturation. Not too light, not too dark. I don't love the bevel and how wide/long they are, but they are very wonderful overall. We have lots of green trees around the house to counteract the pink in the floors, so they look pretty natural in our house. The one downside of the Ravenswood is that is does seem to change color a lot based on natural and artificial lighting, so I would suggest getting some long planks of it before you buy.

Karastan LVP over tile. I wouldn’t if part of it is over tile. We had ours installed and the installer didn’t level it properly. There was a split pour when the condo was built. Normal. That caused a downhill drop. The planks over the drop were coming up within 3 months. The store ripped out the entire 700 sq ft floor and had another installer come down. A better job but still a small drop. Within 6 months, a plank coming up. The store sent down its master installer who spent 4 hours replacing that one plank. He put carpet padding over the problem area and then replaced the plank. That appears to be a good fix. To answer your question. The luxury LVP is very rigid and I think less rigid planks would be a better choice for some uneven areas. We had a downhill area in our previous home. We had less rigid Pergo installed and nothing came apart. FYI. The repair. The expert, with 40 years experience at this family owned store, used a power saw to cut the middle of the plank, lengthwise. That allowed him to remove the plank without damaging the surrounding area. It was a very time consuming repair. Four hours for one plank. The alternative was to rip out the floor a second time. My dealer guarantees satisfaction and certainly honors that warranty,