Unfortunately, there are so many unknowns for us to consider that unless a participant here lives in your area, any thoughts posted here regarding price may be off-base. Cost of labor...cost of materials...type of stone...hand or machine digging...terrain...distance from off-load to building site...weather...experience of contractor... All of these things and more will play into setting the price. I have no idea what the cost of labor and stone are in your area, but here in Massachusetts, I'd tend toward the higher side on price.

Thanks LiveWire Oak. What landscaping can be done during the winter has been done ( we planted grass ). We're in a water source watershed so can't touch the dirt until June. The Ikea cabinets are already stored on site along with all faucets, sinks, light fixtures and appliances. But I was mainly looking for an estimate on drywall installation. All electrical outlets are in as far as you can do that before drywall. Heating ducts have been run and plumbing up to the point of install toilets, sinks and faucets, etc.

"Brick Veneer" and "stone veneer" properly defined is a single wythe of real brick or stone that must be supported on a foundation or other structural element and must be tied back to the "back-up" wall with ties that allow for differential movement between the masonry and the wood building frame. This kind of cladding is often called "masonry veneer cavity wall construction" to distinguish it from a solid masonry wall. "Brick/stone veneer" has been a common construction term for about 60 years. About 30 years ago brick manufacturers began sawing the face from their bricks to be used for interior decoration. The name they adopted was "thin brick". The same was true to a lesser degree for stone. Probably in the last 20 years thin brick/stone has been adhered directly to the face of wood framed house sheathing and called thin-brick/stone veneer. Since the manufacturers don't like to use words like "thin" to describe a product they often call this cladding system "brick/stone veneer" which understandably can cause confusion in specifications and even casual communication. Then manufacturers started making this thin cladding material out of cast stone and synthetic materials and calling it by too many names to list. The OP called the material in question "stone siding" so I can only guess what it is. This directly adhered cladding system was so late in developing because it had to wait for the EIFS (Exterior Insulation Finish System) industry (Dryvit, Sto, etc.) to develop (through a process of costly mistakes) a directly adhered cladding system system with a modern inexpensive drainage plane to replace the time tested brick veneer cavity wall system. So, before choosing the style and appearance of the cladding ask to see the installation details showing how water drains to the outside instead of into your house. If you are unsure of how that is properly done post the details here.

/sigh... This is one of the problems with internet advice so be careful that you don't cost yourself a fortune following the advice of people who don't fully understand your situation and are just making a lot of assumptions. First, let's talk about acclimation... The required acclimation time for flooring is zero minutes. It would be better to think of it as acclimation when needed (though usually needed). If moisture readings were taken when delivered and were at the baseline moisture content for your geographical region, then they don't need to acclimate. That is rarely the case, but it does happen. In my area there is a flooring retailer with an acclimation room which helps get flooring to the baseline for our area. So the “delivery guy took a reading of the wood and the floor where they were stacked and said they were good,” would be acceptable so long as they really did the readings, and it would be sufficient to charge you for those workers taking the day off. Next, yes, what you are describing is customary in a lot of areas. In reality, flooring installation just isn't hard. The hardest part about laying hardwood flooring is squaring up the layout, which again isn't really hard but does require you to have some basic understanding of the process. It is completely doable by someone who has never installed hardwood before and is willing to take extra time. In hardwood installation experience gets you speed, any amateur willing to take their time can install hardwood floors, any finish carpenter or apprentice finish carpenter should easily be able to install it properly. This is not taking anything away from flooring professionals, the ease and speed at which they do what is time consuming for others is impressive. However, even the hardwood companies around here will often send their less skilled workers to install and reserve the skilled workers for finishing. Finally, be careful about insisting on methods after the contract is signed. That is a great way to simply hand your checkbook to your contractor and dare him to do his worst. You get a lot of control over results, but few over the methods used to achieve those results. If the floor is installed properly then you can't insist that the installer have any experience that wasn't in the contract or required by regulation. The moisture content thing is a great example of this, you can't force a contractor to stop work because he didn't take a moisture reading, you can force a contractor to stop work because the floor he is installing is not in an acceptable moisture range. As crazy as it may seem, being right doesn't require intentionality. You either suffer damages or you don't, and stopping work without damages actually damages your contractor and gives him recourse against you. So if you insist on a flooring professional install, you should expect to pay the entire amount he was going to pay his people to install, plus the entire cost of the professional installer, plus any markup on that professional install that is in the contract. Since he has to pay his people for doing nothing, you have to pay his people for doing nothing. Not that this will be the case for you, but anything less would be a gift.