Door for impossible spot
Sarah Mickelson
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Sabrina Alfin Interiors
2 years agoSarah Mickelson
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Aura impossible!
Comments (36)A little late, but I'll throw in my $.02 worth. Whomever said that the VOC level is not responsible for the paint smell is partially correct. The ingredients that are regulated as VOC's may or may not have a smell. Acrylic, the main resin in paint and not a VOC, does have a smell. Many manufacturers add formaldehyde precursors that create a smell during the cure. Unregulated VOC's, such as ammonia, acetone and butyl acetate are quite odiferous. Thats why some zero-voc paints smell MORE than standard paint. Paint manufacturers also sometimes add chemical masking agents that help to cut down on the aroma, but these chemicals may be more dangerous than the aroma's they are negating....See MoreFridge for tight spot next to wall- single door or french doors?
Comments (31)Are you still working on this? I have questions about more than the fridge. This is an awkward layout and there is enough space there that I think you must have better options. Have you looked at moving the dining room entry to the right? Shifting an opening is not a huge ordeal, even if that is a load bearing wall (not sure if it is but someone mentioned the possibility in an earlier post). I'll try to post something mocked up best my crude skills allow here. As I have it, I think that would be a 36" fridge and there is a pinch point. I'm not sure of the depth there, but with a counter depth, an 18" DW or some other tweaks with proper measurements, I think you could improve the function of the space. On the dining room side, any crown would remain or be replaced above the opening and a good contractor should be able to adjust the baseboards. Keep working the plan until you get the kinks out. I lived with two horrible kitchens (we're talking 2 burners and they aren't flat or heat that well, dying ovens, DW tiled in and praying it wouldn't die -- even though it was so loud I hated to run it) for ten years between the two of them until I was able to do my kitchen. I learned a lot along the way and had time to explore outside the box ideas, come back and go off in different directions. All that exploration really paid off in the end, and I plan to use it long enough to make up for any delays. Anyway, here's one rough idea in case you hadn't though of it....See Morehard water spots on glass shore door?
Comments (15)Deluxe, thanks for the glass sealer link... and all their other products. Though like you myhaz I thought using the squeegee would be too much hassle... but I gave it a try n found it only takes maybe a half minute while I am in the shower drip drying myself and greatly reduces cleaning time later. My DH does not squeegee but it still is much, much better. Seven years later I still do it and my shower wall looks great. PS I only do the area that gets wet... of course.... :) I simply use a softscrub to clean... as someone else suggested Magic erasers really are... magic IMHO! Though have realized they can take a bit of shine off floors or finishes......See MoreStainless Steel Refrigerator has rust spots on doors - how do I fix?
Comments (9)The historical solution [sorry] used for automotive body refinishing used a phosphoric acid solution (Metal-Prep) as a cleaning agent, and zinc phosphate solution (Galva-Prep) as a passivating follow-up. The relevant DuPont part numbers were 5717S and 5718S. Or the more recent 244S could be used, if still available, but I'm uncertain whether any zinc is deposited on reactive ferrous surface structure with this solution. In any case, the Galva-Prep will leave the ferrous structure gray colored. This may or may not be noticeable if the nickel and chromium is sufficiently finely distributed in the steel. Newer replacement part numbers for similar liquids may be in use by now but can be searched for. Fine grained 300-series stainless steel should not rust in normal air unless rolling wasn't followed by a proper wash. 400-series stainless steel is less "stainless," and can develop shallow surface corrosion. 400-series steel is detectable by being magnetic, in general. I once used 5717S on otherwise unremovable fingerprints some acidic-fingered packer put on a then-new Wolf hood extension. The usual "Barkeeper's Friend" type cleaning agents were ineffective. No passivating follow-up was needed because the stainless steel was high enough quality to not rust in air. Use of phosphoric acid solutions assumes that all safety cautions and warnings are understood and heeded. Please search them out on the World Wide Web if interested in this approach. kas...See MoreSarah Mickelson
2 years agoSabrina Alfin Interiors
2 years agoolychick
2 years agoSarah Mickelson
2 years agoSarah Mickelson
2 years agoNaturalLight
2 years ago
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Sabrina Alfin Interiors