How do we fix outlets after we accidentally tiled over flanges?

2 years ago

last modified: 2 years ago

We just redid our kitchen in 2019 and because of issues with backorder/discontinued materials it took FOREVER after that to get our backsplash tiles. My husband got overexcited once we did get the tiles, and in the process of hurrying to put it up he tiled over the flanges of some of the outlets without thinking. We didn't realize the mistake until everything had dried and now we have a couple of outlets that we can't put standard covers on because the flanges are sitting under the tile. Is there some kind of special cover that we could use instead or a decent way to finagle the outlet flanges out? I would really appreciate if there an answer out there that does not involve removing tile, our backsplash tile was hard enough to get in the first place.

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Comments (9)

kayozzy
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
What size are the tiles? Should be easy enough to pop the tile out and cut a new one appropriately. Another option is to get a dremel with tile cutting blade and notch out the spot in place. Actually, you could even try a drill and just drill that spot out. How to Drill a Hole in a Tile - TOO EASY! - YouTube
HU-867564120
2 years ago
Get a diamond blade for a 4" hand grinder and delicately trim the overlying tile away from around the outlets.
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I'll go with Brickeyee's method...quicker, faster, easier. Most of all its the better one. Use a proper carpenter's knife or a lino knife to cut along the bottom and top then use a drywall saw to come down each stud. (buy a couple or three drywall saws, you will need them) You only have to smack out the tiles that are in the way of the up/down cuts. Less broken tile bits flying about, the better. (I'm assuming you don't have power tools...me, I'd tape/cover/protect the counter top, etc*. and use a recip saw with short blades...those blades will have Demo stamped or marked on them, wood blades won't work very long)((Actually the Demo blades may not either, depends on if its mastic or thinset right now)) I'll also back up his suggestion to lay ply or at least hardboard on the counter tops. *I'd also bag the upper cabs, paper the lowers and use a movable sheet of ply or board right under where I was actively smacking tile, lean this up against the lower cab faces, between you and the cabinets. I'd have the floor covered with paper and mover blankets in that order at the least. Then a sheet and a half of cement board re-installed where the drywall used to be, set your electrical boxes back in, thin set, tile, grout, caulk, done. Going over the old drywall is not a long term fix. Two day affair and that only to allow the thinset to set up overnight. If you spring for modified thinset with accelerated dry time you could do it in a long day. I know mastic works but I use thinset anywhere water is present. Even a backsplash.
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Once you said you needed a translator there was no reason to go any further. If someone cant speak the language of the country they are doing the instal in how do you expect them to read a guide? How can they read instructions? How do they know what l a quality job is if they have never seen one? People defend this off the corner worker and this is what you get. They don't have a clue as to the standards or guidelines yet they get hired based solely ON PRICE undercutting the real educated tile person. Anybody not understanding what I wrote come to San Diego or LA and see the absolute butcher jobs these people do every day. Houses are ticking time bombs as they do everything from electrical, plumbing to drywall all without speaking word of English or know one single guideline. Then add all the flippers who also undercut the materials and these house all look like crap. They are designed to look good from a picture on Zillow. Sorry but hire a real tile person who you can easily communicate with. It doesn't matter what their ethnic background is it has to do with being educated in the country the install is being done. By the way the key to cement tiles is buying them that are polished. Look on Cle Tile's website and you will see that they polish their tiles which eliminates the majority of install problems by sealing the tiles surfaces.
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So, to be clear, I wasn't really talking about the drywall - I was talking about the backer-board behind the tile. That should be 1/2" cement board or something similar. You won't be able to feel it, you will need a visual. If it's a bad install, two things that can happen: 1. There was no waterproofing and so the water seeps through the grout and such and into the backer board. 2. The backer board sits too far down on the tub, without an air-gap. And because of that it is wicking up water from the edge of the backerboard. You will only be able to determine that (without taking the tile off) by getting a visual of the back side of the backer board. If the bottom edge of the backerboard looks dark from moisture, it will have to be redone. ____________________ Since you say that the door is properly caulked, the other place I'd look is the junction between the tile and the tub. That appears to be grouted when it should have been caulked. Anywhere there is a change in plane it should be caulked, not grouted. To do a better job, fill the tub with water first so that there's weight in the tub before you caulk. Yes, water sitting on that tub/tile edge over time can cause moisture to wick horizontally through the grout and cause the issue you see on the drywall. Caulk the tub/tile joint to prevent water that sits there from being drawn into the grout.
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Chelsea Ervin
Original Author
2 years ago
To give some perspective on the problem, this is one of the outlets:
Amy Lynn
2 years ago
Even if you could find a cover that doesn't need to screw in, the plug will be recessed too much to due to the tabs being behind the tile. All you need is a Dremel tool to notch out around the flanges. Then put spacers behind the flanges to bring the plugs out where they belong. You should be able to do this without damaging the tile if you use the right cutting tip and have a steady hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXiS4yl3bYY
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
2 years ago
Back the screws holding the outlet into the box out please. Push the outlet up or down to pull the top or bottom out, then pull it out the rest of the way. With the outlet out of the way, grind or core out the tile as necessary to accommodate the outlet plate mounting screws. Reinstall the outlet on top of the tile and with clearance for the plate mounting screws.
HU-867564120
2 years ago
What Joseph said. But, if the outlet wont move up or down to wiggle the tabs out, take the screws out and with a metal cutting blade in the 4"grinder, cut the receptacle loose from the tabs and remove everything and replace with a new receptacle.
PRO
Debbi Washburn
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Take the cover and use tape to mark where the outside edge is. Then do what Joseph suggested - or chip away very carefully enough to expose one of the tabs. Get the outlet out and put spacers in behind it. If you have a dremel - it works great to remove just enough - you can even use it to make a whole for the screw from the switch plate very simply.
User
2 years ago
a dremel with a diamond blade will cut into the tile like butter. I did it last week and was able to get super clean, precise cuts with no chipping.
dennisgli
2 years ago
I'm with 867564120 - break the "ears" off the outlet; remove it; and install a new one.

How do we fix outlets after we accidentally tiled over flanges?

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kayozzy

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Chelsea Ervin
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How do we fix outlets after we accidentally tiled over flanges?

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Chelsea ErvinOriginal Author

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Chelsea Ervin
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