I just stumbled upon this discussion and felt compelled to make my contribution. I know brick because I work for a brick manufacturer. However, I will try to keep my personal bias at bay. The first issue to address is durability. When installed properly, either option will provide many decades of service. Both materials have the compressive strength and moisture absorption ratings to withstand the harshest climates nature can throw at them. There is actually another factor affecting cement pavers, but since it doesnt actually cause failure of the unit, I will address it in the appearance section. Either way, make sure your bricks/pavers are designed to go in the ground. Not all cement materials, nor are all bricks designed to do this. It was mentioned that the deterioration of house bricks in a patio was unheard of and that it would actually be an advantage to find reclaimed bricks from a demolition project. DO NOT DO THIS! For a segmental paving material to withstand Mother Nature, it must have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi and a maximum absorption rate of 7% after a 24 hour soak in cold water. I have seen historical test data from the mid 1900Âs that showed that many solid house bricks (which were often used mistakenly as pavers) had compressive strengths around 5,000 psi and absorption rates in the double digits! Needless to say, those ill-fated patios are either long gone or a horrible eyesore now. Now that you can be comfortable in choosing a durable product, the second issue to address is appearance. Additional factors besides just the look of the brick/paver should be considered. For instance, do you want your pavement to match the colors of the bricks on your house? Will you be incorporating any retaining walls in your project? No matter how hard you try, you simply cannot match a clay color in a cement product and vice versa. Brick makers do not currently make a dry-stack retaining wall system; therefore a brick retaining wall will require more work. However, if you are trying to create a stately atmosphere it may be worth the additional work (or hiring of a mason contractor) to build your retaining wall. The first factor of appearance, the look of the actual brick/paver does speak pretty much for itself. However, I do want to address some comments from the thread. To my knowledge (I have not researched this) cement pavers have always had their colors mixed throughout the paver. (End lack of research warning.) What is actually happening is fading due to ultraviolet radiation. This can be mistaken for the coloring only being on the surface because with time cement pavers will actually wear down. This is evident in a cement paver project once it has been installed for about 10 years. Because the erosion is visible (you can actually see the aggregate) it is commonly believed that coloring is superficial as well. I do not see the issue of erosion as a durability factor since the units will still be in one piece and the pavement system as a whole will not fail. (Personal bias warning in effect)However, after all your hard work and money put into your project, wouldnÂt you want it to look the same as it does now in ten years? (End bias warning.) To be fair, cement pavers can be sealed on an annual basis to ensure their color retention. However, when you add up the cost of initial construction and yearly maintenance over ten years, you could probably install solid granite for about the same cost. (I havenÂt done the math and may have exaggerated, so research it for yourself and see.) There are advantages for both products (Although one list may be longer than the other!) and your unique concerns and application should be considered. In addition, other pavement options such as bluestone and granite are worth researching and considering as well. I know this has been an extremely long reply, but I sincerely hope it helps you make an informed decision. While there are not as many "genuine clay paving brick" retailers as paver retailers, we are out here. Do your research and you will find us!

Totally depends on preference. Pros & cons to both and nothing is totally maintenance free, although some things may require more maintenance than others. In our Upstate NY climate, everything takes a beating - regardless of selected product. Long story short, I will never have another deck nor do I prefer poured concrete. Decks take too much of my time and money for maintenance (even composite) and I just don't care for the stamped concrete. In our climate, poured concrete shifts as do pavers. Pavers (or natural rock) are much more forgiving to shifting than concrete which generally (not always) eventually splits & heaves (even slightly) around here. Pavers shifting are easier to remedy than poured concrete should you desire to do so. I spend a total of 30-60 minutes a year maintaining the paver patio which includes weekly sweeping and minor weed killing in the cracks. Zero cost in supplies - just time. Probably not much more in maintenance for a poured patio either. The deck we used to have required washing, water repellent treatment (staining if preferred), tightening screws/bolts that came loosened up over time and occasionally replaced pieces of floorboards that became warped or split, parts of the skirting (should you choose to have one), and spindles on railings which became loose over time from bumping, leaning etc... The patio allows us to be ground level with shrubs & flowers which we used to only see from above on the deck. Fast growing plantings around the patio can screen things out pretty quickly as well, should the need be there. When your up on a raised platform like a deck, sometimes it can be more challenging unless you integrate a wooden screen into the design (which requires maintenance like the rest of the deck - more time & money). Regardless, I would remove the existing slab before I'd do anything. Should you go with a deck, the footings will need to be dug into the ground which will require removal of the concrete. Patios (poured, paver or stone) are only as good as the base they are built on and the current slab would need to come out to do build your new base. Only opinions and preference but it's good to consider all options that you are to make the best decision for you.

Brick is generally softer and more prone to breaking. Also will be slightly smaller than pavers. Stone will be irregular and require more careful fitting. That, in my opinion, are the only drawbacks of the three. Decide the look you desire and go for it. The base is the same for all and is important that it be proper for your climate.

thank you for your feedback jannnicone. i do see your point. the larger format vs a smaller format. something i hadn't considered. yes, the travertine is said to be 'cooler' on feet and south florida summer weather can get very hot. but the nicer the grade of the travertine the smoother it is.. and in my opinion it can be slippery. the height difference is not a concern as they sell them at differing heights in case they will be installed over a concrete base.