We were supposed to go the plugmold route but had issues with color, size, etc. But we didn't want receptacles in the backsplash. We ended up doing skinny receptacle boxes mounted to the underside of the upper cabinet. The light rail on the bottom of the cabinet conceals it perfectly. Additionally, the electrical wires were able to be better concealed going into the box vs. the plugmold. Might be something to look into for you too.

I think I may be missing something obvious, but in case I'm not..... cloud_swift, I think that setup works for you because you have those really nice Columbia Gorge stone outlet covers that attach with magnets. (Which are wonderful, btw. I hope I can afford to get some made when all is said and done.) If you had used outlet plates instead I think their top screws would have run into the stone right behind those top screw holes. In murphysf's case the covers need to attach with screws. For those Decora outlets there are 2 screws that go into the small threaded holes at the very top and bottom of each outlet -- the one in the middle between the two "ears" on each end. (I just noticed the red arrow pointing to it at the top of her photo). In that photo, the topmost screw won't work because it will run into the granite right behind the threaded hole. I see three options there: - A magnetically-attached outlet cover, if those can be bought and not just custom made. - The option you mentioned: some sort of cutout or drill hole to make room for that screw. - Use a really short screw there. Just long enough to engage the threads, but not long enough to go into the stone. It would probably take some fussy trial and error with a grinder. For the bottom, if jerzeegirl's "outlet extender" idea doesn't work you could try just putting a small scrap of stone, wood, or whatever behind the bottom set of "ears" to hold it the right distance out from whatever is behind the stone. Laura, insomniacal and long-winded

But if that 10" wall space wasn't there, the inspector wouldn't insist on a receptacle to cover the fixed panel of the sliding glass door, would they? Yes, that is what they make floor boxes for ;) or, I would put it in the side of the cabinet. Many inspectors would also consider the side of the cabinet without doors as wall space. Really? They have reworded that part at least twice that I know of, and it is still confusing to most. The CEU training illustrations all show a low receptacle on the back side of peninsulas, presumably because it is a room divider forming a wall for the dining room (even where there is an overhang for seating, which I would call a bar) Oddly enough, non of the illustrations show a receptacle on the back sides of island cabinets, which I would think is what a fixed, freestanding bar is, but an island is not always a "room divider" between the kitchen and dining or other room. The inspectors do not often include the 2' end of a peninsula (actually more like 20" at the toekick) in that 6' measured along the floor line either because it could be considered part of the kitchen, not a room divider, less than 2', and not part of the dining as is the back side. Essentially, if a blank side (no doors) of a cabinet faces another room, other than the kitchen, then it is counted in the "spaces measured around corners, and unbroken at the floor line", and as a "room divider"... according to most inspectors interpretations I know of.

@dann1888 What is your preference between the cans or the LED strips? Do you anticipate any awkwardness with wiring if we have plugmold at the back, and this lighting at the front? @halett&co That's a great look. I wish I had known about this design issue before I ordered the cabinet so that I could have modified the design accordingly -- it's too late for me to add in longer side panels but that would have addressed most concerns!