Can you rotate the box 90 degrees?

If you eliminate the outlet in the switch box, then the box only has to move a couple of inches one way or the other. I'd be surprised if that couldn't happen. (of course depending on where the studs are)

Has the GC opened up that wall? Does he know that the wires are short or is he just throwing that excuse out there because he doesn't want to do it?

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you are not the first to have this problem.

Or if space is really tight, could you replace the 3-gang box with a single 4 inch box and then use an offset mudring to squeeze it down to a single opening (either inside or outside the tile area). Use a double-switch in the single opening and exclude the receptacle.

Offset mudring:

Double switch:

Another thing....

The vertical lines you drew are lined up with the cabinet edge. Will the counter overhang the cabinet at all? Should your vertical lines actually be an inch to the left?

Hi all! Very quick replies, thank you! After I had submitted this question, I had thought about either a stacked switch and move to the left, and leave the outlet, resulting in 2 singles. One outside the area (switch), one inside (plug). But I don't know where the stud is. The GC had it opened up and closed it when the electricians went in there to rewire and add an outlet - this is what irks me, he should have consulted us before he did that, of course. It's not too late, but to relocate might be a problem, something about the wires not being long enough. But I'm really not wanting to accept this as is, some solution has to be done.

There are no cabinets above the dishwasher, so it would be a straight tile job across.

I also thought of turning it 90 degrees and that's a good option as well! Again, depending on the stud location.

These comments are useful, the more we have for options, the better we can try to use one depending on what's behind the wall. I'm also not happy that we have to come up with the options, that's his job... I'd appreciate any other ideas! And of course thanks again to the folks who posted.

This is what we did on this wall, the tiles were installed higher, keeping in line with hood area to minimize the different high and low spots. There is no tile on other side of slider.

Greg, just so I understand correctly, are you suggesting to use a single case/box for the plug, then use a double stacked switch but exclude the faceplate Is this what you mean by receptacle? | understand using the offset mud plate to move away from a stud to gain room, but not what you mean about the switches. Or perhaps the outlet is a single, and you're isolating the switches within the offset mud ring? Sorry, not really knowledgeable about the electrical stuff. Thanks, appreciate it!

Thanks for the photo Skipjack! I think it looks fine in your example. I just worry that light green glass tile looks strange going to the floor...

Get rid of the 'plug'. (Note: the term is actually receptacle. A plug is the thing that you stick into the receptacle). It seems unnecessary. There is already one over near the window.

That leaves you with just two switches.

If you change the big box that currently houses the two switches and the receptacle to a 4 inch box (it's taller than the box that you currently have but a little narrower), then you aren't really shrinking the box very much so the wires will hopefully still reach the box.

Then you use an offset mudring so that part of the box is hidden behind the drywall (but still accessible through the mudring).

This leaves an opening that is just the size of a single typical switch.

But you need two switches, so use a double switch as shown in the picture above. It fits in the same space as a normal typical switch.

Here's a kind of visual:

The switches now fit to the right of the red line (or flip it around and push the switches to the left outside of the tile area if that's more appropriate depending on what's behind the wall and where the wires are coming from)

There's another solution.... Get rid of the outlet and change the box to a single with dual rockers for the lights. Place them all the way to the left - outside of your backsplash. You can't do half and half because the tile usually goes under the switchplate which would leave it raised on the side where there wasn't tile.

This should be a fairly easy fix....

Good luck!

Simply open the wall. It will take 5 minutes to make an investigation hole. You have three outlets? Make one outlet inside the field if tiles. Move the box to the sliding door stud an there should be room fro the box and a small receptacle cover. If not the above options for double switch will work.

You did a beautiful renovation spend the $500 now vs blaming whoever. It needs to be corrected without getting into a compromise where you are spending hours trying to adjust for what should have just been corrected.

Call electrician back and have it done. End tile at end of counter. Done.

all good comments! I'm sure you've all heard desperation and frustration from homeowners on how these things should have been brought up. If I can bring the suite of potential options forward and just get it done, then this is best. Arguing with them about doing it is the most unpleasant part but we should hold firm. I appreciate everyone's input! And especially the visuals, you folks are very kind to help illustrate. I agree, making the solution work, rather than the work-around, is better. The "short wires" may be a problem, but we'll see. We'll give it a try!

One thing for the outlet, they insisted because of code (?) that it had to be there? Which I guess that I don't understand because there's one to the right already, and I thought it was every 3 feet. But the one higher up might branch off of it, not sure. There were designs to put a small TV there, possibly in a cabinet.

In a kitchen there has to be two 20 amp small appliance circuits, each protected by GFCI.

You are also required to have a receptacle for each section of counter that is 12" or wider, and receptacles must be installed so that "no point along the wall line is more than 24" measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space". It seems like you could remove the receptacle by the switches and still meet that requirement.

Bruce

Thinking that the receptacle on the left is required for 210.52(C) may be jumping to conclusions, since I do not see a receptacle lower on the wall for the receptacle required by 210.52(A).

If a receptacle is required for that little 10 inch space that isn't countertop (and the receptacle with the switches was satisfying that requirement), then I'd run a new wire from the switch box down to the ground and install a receptacle down there at the normal receptacle height.

It is not a little 10" wall space. A wall space is not defined by sheetrock. The fixed panel on of the sliding glass door is also wall space. Many inspectors would also consider the side of the cabinet without doors as wall space.

Using the switch box as a junction box for wires not related to the switches in the box can easily result in more wires in the box than allowed by code.

But if that 10" wall space wasn't there, the inspector wouldn't insist on a receptacle to cover the fixed panel of the sliding glass door, would they?

Many inspectors would also consider the side of the cabinet without doors as wall space.

Really? That seems ridiculous to me. (Note: I'm not arguing. I'm just surprised. I realize that you have a much, much better understanding of the nuances of the code than me)

Re: box fill

I was going off of my suggestion above to use a 4 inch box with a mudring for the switches. There would probably be plenty of space if they did that. Although obviously the electrician would have to confirm that. Otherwise, running the new cable from the receptacle for the TV may be an option.

But if that 10" wall space wasn't there, the inspector wouldn't insist on a receptacle to cover the fixed panel of the sliding glass door, would they?

Yes, that is what they make floor boxes for ;) or, I would put it in the side of the cabinet.

Many inspectors would also consider the side of the cabinet without doors as wall space. Really?

They have reworded that part at least twice that I know of, and it is still confusing to most. The CEU training illustrations all show a low receptacle on the back side of peninsulas, presumably because it is a room divider forming a wall for the dining room (even where there is an overhang for seating, which I would call a bar) Oddly enough, non of the illustrations show a receptacle on the back sides of island cabinets, which I would think is what a fixed, freestanding bar is, but an island is not always a "room divider" between the kitchen and dining or other room. The inspectors do not often include the 2' end of a peninsula (actually more like 20" at the toekick) in that 6' measured along the floor line either because it could be considered part of the kitchen, not a room divider, less than 2', and not part of the dining as is the back side.

Essentially, if a blank side (no doors) of a cabinet faces another room, other than the kitchen, then it is counted in the "spaces measured around corners, and unbroken at the floor line", and as a "room divider"... according to most inspectors interpretations I know of.

Here was our solution to a similar problem in my daughter's kitchen. Although you don't have an upper cab as she does, it can be handled the same way. It might not appeal to everyone, but it actually looks like a design feature. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do!