What is confusing about this post is that in the US FRT sheathing has no fire-resistance rating only a flame spread and smoke contribution classification and it does not improve the fire endurance of a fire-rated assembly such as a one-hour exterior wall to any significant extent. Why it would be specified or required inside of a wall assembly that might be exposed to a fire in an adjacent building is puzzling. The only time I have needed to use FRT wood framing was in a non-combustible multi-family structure and it would not have been acceptable in many others states. In a wood framed building typical US codes are concerned with limiting the temperature of a wall surface on the opposite side of a fire for a specific amount of time and for the assembly to still be intact after a hose stream test. If I were the architect I would not be concerned with FRT sheathing where not required but the construction of the wall to provide adequate fire protection which so far appears to be missing. The use of a wood fiber and concrete composite siding would have little or no effect on the time inhabitants or the fire service will have to do what they need to do. If the goal is to save property a sprinkler system should be installed. This post was edited by Renovator8 on Fri, Sep 19, 14 at 13:11

alexashome- It sounds like your plumber is incompetent and/or lazy. Modern toilets typically measure a bit less than 12" from the back of the toilet to the center of the outlet, which is called the offset. If the distance from the wall to the center of the sewer line in your floor was substantially greater than 12" (which is possible in an older home) he should have explained that you would have this problem and offered suggestions. The best option would have been to move the hole in the floor closer to the wall by getting at the sewer line under the floor and re-doing it. If that is not possible, then an offset flange would get the toilet 2" closer to the wall. There are also some toilets that can be ordered with a 14" offset, rather that the standard 12", and the combination of that toilet with an offset flange would allow you to have the toilet up against the wall without redoing the sewer line. As for the toilet not being level, this can be caused by an unlevel floor or a toilet flange that is sitting too high. If your situation is because of the flange, the plumber was negligent in not setting the flange lower (which would been more work and more cost to you). If your situation is because of an unlevel floor, the plumber was negligent in not using plastic shims to level it and prevent rocking. If you decide to follow any of these suggestions, use a new plumber and not the hack who did the work you are unhappy about.

... in any case, once you start shaving off space down to the thickness of a couple fingers, what really counts is air circulation, heat and humidity in the air (A/C on all the time or not), and where the heat pipes are underneath the metal cladding of Your Chosen fridge. To get fresh air to flow around it and to give the air an exit path too, it would make sense to put a mini fan (the size of what you see inside a PC) somewhere under the cabinets, without any kickplate either. The manufacturers won't help you because they don't want to discuss how close is just barely close enough and not too much -- and they wouldn't want to start saying that arid climate dwellers have a bit more freedom to squeeze the fridge and humid climate dwellers have to leave more space... If you build the fridge into an airtight plastic bag, it will fail as a fridge because its heat will be retained in the bag surrounding it. Same thing for a smaller and smaller space, you just end up heating the material surrounding it. I know the small LG has a lot of its heat pipes in the front sides near the door gasket, adn this is mentioned in its online PDF. Someone posted here how it still manages to work even after he built it into a tight space and had it practically "plug" the space. It's a 24" wide fridge. HTH

Check out Dimplex.com, they have many electric fireplace units as well as many fireboxes to choose from and mount on the wall. You can most likely find a local dealer to see in person. We recently had a custom light natural maple credenza made from an Amish company and had a Dimplex firebox installed in it. It needs no special venting because the hot air blows out the front into the room but it does require a separate line due to the heat fan (if you don't use the heat fan, then maybe you won't need the separate line). We have clear glass beads on the bottom of the firebox and it is essentially an LED light show! We actually have a wall mount firebox installed in a piece of furniture. http://dimplex.com/en/fireplaces/wallmounts We never thought we'd use the heat element, but we have used it once or twice and it works great. Honestly, we are so happy with our finished product, decorating our FL condo is still a work in progress, but here is what we have so far. I know its not really what you're looking for, but just an FYI. I wish the pic would show off the flame/lights as they really look, we think they're beautiful.