The cause for moving rhododendrons to shadier areas is after they get attacked by lace bug insects or show signs of sun scald. Some varieties are susceptible to lace bug and some are susceptible to sun scald. Whitish specks on the upper surface of leaves and dark spots varnish-like on the bottom are symptoms of Rhododendron Lace Bugs, Stephanitis rhododendri, and Azalea Lace Bugs, Stephanitis pyrioides, small insects with transparent wings on under-surface of leaves. Large leaved rhododendrons are susceptible to sunscald if the plants do not receive enough moisture before the soil freezes. The leaves curl in cold winter weather, exposing the central part of the leaf but not the edges, resulting in the area near the main vein becomes desiccated and turns brown. To prevent this, water plants thoroughly before the first hard frost, protect from drying winds, apply mulch, and locate in partial shade. Unfortunately there are several different clones in the trade labeled Scintillation. The one I have is definitely susceptible to sun scald. It doesn't harm the plant, but is unsightly. If yours look OK then there is no reason to move them. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.

Thanks for all of your wonderful help. "The hot humid months are when rhododendrons are most likely to die of root rot. It is best to not water unless the new leaves are limp in the morning. They will always be limp in the heat of the day. That is normal. Do not let that bother you." Okay. I'll try not to let it bother me. Thanks for the tip on identifying leaves for stress. "I did that for a while. When the hardwood mulch decomposes it gets artillery fungus and also depletes nitrogen from the soil. In now only use pine bark mulch." So, you think I need to change to a different mulch. I suppose I can do this right below the plant but not throughout the yard, there's just too much of it. It is interesting what you say though. I had a Blue Spruce near where I have the Rhododendrons and the Blue Spruce died last summer, late last summer, from what appeared to be a fungus. I wonder if this artiillery fungus. It was definitely a fungus. "1) Hydrangeas thrive with aluminum sulfate. It kills rhododendrons. While hydrangeas need acidity and aluminum to be blue, rhododendrons are slowly killed by a buildup of aluminum in the soil." "2) Hydrangeas thrive in moist areas. Mine are planted in a bog and love it. Rhododendrons die in moist areas, they need EXCELLENT drainage." Well, I hope I have the skill to keep this going and water the Rhododendrons less than the Hydrangeas. I have them grouped about ten feet apart. I have never added aluminum sulfate to the soil. I have added acidfying soil conditioner this spring. Ultimately, I think I will need to replant the Cat Album Rhododendrons or replace them all together. Any other helpful tips to creating fantastic Rhododendrons in our hot/humid climate (zone 5-6), near Kansas City. What type would you select to plant here? I would like to plant azaleas too. Rhododendrons are proving to be the hardest plant for me. They like excellent drainage so I put them on a berm, but they don't like winter wind so elevating them is not so good. I don't have any azaleas planted but I once tried those too, and failed! I thought it was either because of our naturally alkaline soil (pH tends to be around 7 - 8) but it could also have been too much peat or too deep or too/not enough water... this is tough. The local nurseries and home depot are supposed to pay attention to our vicinity/climate but they sell Cat Album Rhodos fresh out of the greenhouses when there's little chance for them to flourish here.

I am a very wet blanket on this forum as I seem to come in and say, "That's very difficult unless you have the right set-up," and I am even starting to annoy myself. Rhododendron is difficult though. On the other hand, if you don't try, then you won't have a chance of success. Try and mist them as much as you can. On the other hand, if they are confined in plastic somehow, make sure they have access to air somewhere. Good luck.

It is frustrating and sometimes impossible to figure out precisely. The explanation for the browning is usually that the plants withdraw moisture from the leaf extremities first - tip or edges. This happens very often when there's too little water. Too much water can damage roots which then triggers the same response. Likewise with soaking then drying out excessively when it happens over and over again. Excessive fertilizer salts are not flushed out from the container mix can be another factor. Air temperature and the temperature of the planting medium are also involved. Your planting medium should be fine. The goal, however difficult it may be to reach, is consistent moisture with no extremes. Thinking in terms of weather, temperature, frequent checking of moisture content with your hands can help. A specific number of waterings a week is not likely to meet the plant's need every week of the year.