Faron, Thank you so much for writing back right away. You are so knowledgeable and generous with your time. I just want my walls to look nice and I was afraid if I skipped the primer, the paint may not stick. These forums (especially Michael) has taught me how important it is to prep the walls before painting and I can see how nice my other walls look by following this advice and making sure my painter did what I told him to do. But my bathroom was just painted and I am not changing the color much at all. I guess it is my fault for taking a shower too soon in the room and not putting the fan on in the room after each shower since I have no windows and that is why the paint is now streaking. All the other rooms look great and the other bathrooms have no problems that are rarely used. I do have the guest bathroom that I can take showers in for one week. I rarely use it since I like taking showers in my master bathroom with the glass doors than in a tub with a shower curtain. I only use that bathroom for guests or to wash my little doggies. I guess for one week, I can use the guest bathroom to shower in despite a little smell from my doggie's puppy pads in there. I guess I should feel blessed that my townhouse has 2 1/2 baths and has a lot of room. I just keep the puppy pads in there since in the winter time my spoiled little 5.8 lb Maltese, Sassy does not like to go outside. My other little doggies will go outside in my fenced in backyard on the stones but not the little Miss Princess Sassy who has always been like this knowing her cuteness will win out. I am just changing the color slightly since the BM Navajo White is only slightly less yellow than the Deep Cream and the Navajo White which I feel will go better with the bone colored Jacuzzi and the two bone colored sinks and the bone colored toilet, as well as the taupe tiles up the sides of the Jacuzzi and shower stall. The extra gray in the Navajo White surprisingly does not look gray to me in that room but warms the walls up and takes away the lemon cast that to me just did not look right against the taupe tiles. They are so similar in color and the formulas show it (Navajo White has 4 Less Units of Oxide Yellow and 4 more units of Gray and 1/2 extra unit of Orange than the deep cream color but otherwise they are so much alike in formula) but the room will then appear less lemon but still happy and bright and be semi-gloss like I wanted since I have no windows in it and I want to be able to clean it easily when I brush my teeth and get my walls dirty. I love my new pictures and my new olive towels and new olive rug and I feel they will go better with walls that do not have that lemon cast to them. I guess I should ask the paint store for a "liquid deglosser" and they will know what I mean? I can degloss part of the bathroom except for the tallest walls I will not be able to reach even with a tall ladder since I am not quite 5 feet. Maybe I can do what I can before painter arrives and he can do the rest. I think he is not that tall either (but much taller than me) but has tall ladders and long poles for his rollers. I had the painter tint the primer deep cream last time for the deep cream room and bone white tinted for the bone white room. I guess that was not really necessary since the colors are so light. The painter used the Deep Cream tinted primer for the Philadelphia Painted room telling me it was not worth going out to buy new primer. I wonder if this is why that room turned out more yellow than I had thought it would be.

Thank you all for you opinions! OK, if I go with semi the SW rep told me to use the "Metal Latex" over the dark primer. Is that good stuff? The BM impervo doesn't come in Semi right? So in order to get the impervo's smooth oil-like finish I have to go with satin sheen or choose another trim paint? Does anyone just use the type of paint they used on the wall, but in a higher sheen? I'm using SW Duration Home in satin on the walls...so could I just use that in the semi gloss on the trim? Or will it REALY not smooth out enough? For Turkish Coffee the painter said 3 coats, not the normal 2. Is he talking 3 on top of the primer then if everyone primes first??? He didn't clarify, but some of the cheaper estimators said 2 coats. (I made the dumb assumption primers were a given and weren't counted when they were talking about how many coats)

RHM, I will admit that I am fussier than most about my whites. You say you want to brighten up the walls, so my first question would be "what color are your walls now?" Your trim is Alabaster - a light white that is slightly dirty with a little gray green cast, Your cabinets are somewhere between Alabaster and Dover White. If you measure the light, chroma and hue of Dover White vs Alabaster the biggest difference is the Chroma - how gray is it vs how colorful is it. Dover White is less gray so the so the color looks like it is a bit darker and does not have that slight green cast. The first number is light - So Simply white is the lightest color The second number is the chroma - the lower the chroma the more gray , the higher the chroma the more color. The third number is the hue 90 is yellow, 182 is green - this comparison gets tricky because yellow gets kind of olivish green as it goes to gray and when the chroma is really low, like in alabaster I can see that hint of green. Dover White CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 93.765 8.230 99.280° Alabaster CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 93.002 5.636 99.953° Simply White CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 95.648 4.657 106.615° Personally, the first two colors I would test are Dover White and Neutral Ground. I think Neutral Ground is a bit too dark, but I like a little contrast between the wall color and trim color, so I may do 3/4 Dover white and 1/4 Neutral Ground. How I test and blend colors to get exactly what I want is really simple. I own a box of oral medicine syringes - you can buy them from Amazon. When I find two colors that I like, but really want the color to be something in between I mix several variations of the two colors and paint them on 8 1/2 x 11 240lb water color paper. 1 cc of color A + 3 cc of color B 1 cc of color A + 2 cc of color B 2 cc of color A + 2 cc of color B 2 cc of color A + 1 cc of color B 3 cc of color A + 1 cc of color B I mark each sheet with the "recipe" and then test the colors against the colors I already have in my space.

We closed on our house today wahoooo! I only got to spend about an hour there but looked quickly at the samples for trim/doors/ceilings. I think I've narrowed it down to three possibilities: BM Simply White, SW Extra White and BM Super White. I thought about BM Chantilly Lace too. Basically, looking at the finishings, my first gut is that BM Simply White looks the best. I just worry it may look too yellow once up on everything. At least that's what I read (and you know how reliable the internet is). First question: has anyone had experience with BM Simply White? Does it just read warm or do you see the yellow in it when it's one trim/doors/ceilings? So I may go that direction, or wonder if I should go with a cleaner white but something close. Something still a little warm... As for the runners up, from what I can see SW Extra White and BM Super White are very similar but Extra White maybe looks a little warmer? Maybe because it has more chroma? Is this understanding accurate, Lori A. Sawaya?? And it seems to me that the order of warmth would go SW Extra White, BM Super White, BM Chantilly Lace... is that a correct reading? Again for context - East/West exposures with a lot of shade. Wall colors aren't chosen but would likely be something along the lines of BM Edgecomb Gray, BM Ballet White, BM Chelsea Gray, BM Natural Cream. Daughter's room will be BM Opal. I'll try to take some pics of the finishings tomorrow but would love any thoughts on this. Thanks!