Agreed. If I were doing the work, I'd add a 6-mil poly barrier between the framing and the the cement board...because it'd cost about $2 in materials and take 5 minutes of my time to do it. So why not, even though it's not required. That would omit the need for Redgard. If the corner bench is boxed out, then I prefer the membrane to cover the bench and the floor. I wouldn't want to build my pan, install the membrane, run the membrane up the walls, then on top of that box out a built-in bench and cover it with tile with the frame of the bench not being covered by the membrane. It could set up a scenario for long-term water damage to the bench's substrate. If you're talking about a wall-mounted corner bench, like the "Better Bench", then that just hangs on the wall, it does not have to be included under the membrane. An alternative which provides flexibility of use is a small teak bench. It can be in the shower, moved out of the shower, or moved around in the shower as needed. For pictures, they first have to be loaded onto a third-party hosting site like photobucket or it's equivalent. When your picture is loaded, right click on it and in the drop down menu left click on "Copy Image Location". Then come back here and type: <IMG SRC="paste your url here" WIDTH=400> and then paste your photo's location in between the quotation marks above in place of the red "paste your url here". I add the WIDTH=400 to restrict the width of the photo so the picture doesn't end up being so wide that it generates a scroll bar. You could change "400" to a larger or smaller number. Mongo

Cold-weather... thank you for your thoughful response. I have some comments and questions for clarification, if you don't mind: If you’re thinking of raising the deck, a deck-cabinet gap can be concealed far easier than the tub-deck gap, but the deck is hard in the wall tile, so that's a big bite for the tile installer to eat. >>> You are sooo right about the tile on the deck being against the wall and since the bottom has crackled glass tiles you can't raise the deck tile without it coming against that glass... and that you can't replace just one row of the glass without it messing everything else up. Darn!!! Guess that option is out.Any tub installer who left it that way is a screw up. The tub installer was the ONLY person who was in a position to fix this thing. Since that person did not, that person gets the prize for the ultimate screw up. If he/she could not do a better job, he/she should not have done any job. The entire onus is on the tub guy to do it or to not do it. >>> The really frustrating part is that I have been a part of the process - trying to get them to do it right (I had to tell then that they used the wrong material - drywall instead of mortar... and I only found that out by researching and talking to people). The GC wanted to give them another chance to fix the issue and since it was only putting mortar in, we didn't think they could screw that up (wrong!!!). Now we have a mess. That's a fiberglass/plastic tub with two things to be aware of. One, the feet can be cut, and they can be set in a bed of mud along with the tub belly. They’re wood blocks covered with resin. Two, the top can be scribed, but only by someone far more competent than this guy. That tub should hang by the top rim and sit firmly on the bottom mud at the same time. It should be set in the mud (which could have a separator layer like a plastic bag or a piece of shower liner) with a load of water in it. >>> Unfortunately it is near impossible to get to the back right corner of the tub because it is filled with all kinds of innerworkings of the tub. The good news is that the ONLY corner that lays flat against the tile is that back right corner... so presumably they can work on the other 3 corners. The mortar does have plastic on it now... so I guess that's a good thing.. would they have to take all the mortar out first and then do something with the feet? By scribing do you mean shaving the top of the feet off? (I hate to say this but in the framer took off a couple of the back feet off at one point... because he thought they were part of the shipping material.. not supposed to stay on the tub). And by mud with water... do you mean mortar like shown in the pic? Caulking/sealing/bridging a quarter inch gap is absurd. The sealant is to stop water from seeping, not to stop pencils from rolling. Sealant thickness should be nearly unseen. It has no strength. Cut the tub. Everything points to the tub person being not skilled enough to eat a donut without a bib. Since the top edge of the tub is NOT level, cut! I can’t see how the GC could allow this. >>> Funny that you should mention pencils rolling - I just took a pic tonight to send to the GC and one of the pics showed a pen under the edge. Okay, not funny at all. Thank you for explaining about the sealant and why it has to be fixed. Cut the tub. >>>What do you mean "cut the tub"I'm gathering from everyone that this is a big problem that just has to be fixed.. it's not an aesthetic thing (which is bad enough... that big gap is going to look bad) but I'm going to have a problem down the road...

Thanks for all the comments. I ended up getting a nice 13 amp grinder with a concrete grinding wheel. Since about 1/5th of the floor is the hump I opted for the grinding. So far I have taken about 1/4" down. As far as the "pros" and "experts"... this concrete was done by the "pros". The rough framing which I've had to fix in multiple spots was also done by "pros". The HVAC runs that I have had to re-adjust so that sheet rock will fit on the walls was done by "experts". The upstairs tub, which had the overflow leak all over the downstairs ceiling, was also done by an "expert". All those things are what makes me a DIYer. Thanks again for all the perspectives.

My tub was from 1999 so way worse! Yours does not look bad! I updated 3 years ago to a free standing tub and love it! You will have to replace flooring though since it will show on a free standing tub. You will also have to fix the walls where the tile was. We did a total master bath remodel. My recommendations would be to go to a large bath/kitchen showroom and sit in some tubs to see how you like them! Also to figure out the size you want. Most run very large. I am only 5'2" so didn't want a 7' tub where I would just float around in! Mine is 5 feet I think and its perfect.