I really understand your frustration. We had a Whirlpool washer that died after 4 years. It was leaking oil and sounded like a jet engine taking off. Then the water started coming out. Repair cost was $600 which of course was absurd. I was NOT happy with Whirlpool. I'm sure you know Whirlpool owns Maytag, but most brands out there are lacking in qualtiy.

When our Whirlpool died, I researched brands up the ying yang and the bad reviews for everything drove me nuts. Someone finally told me just to shop for the features that appealed to me and forget about any certain brand. I did just that and finally ended up with an LG top loader simply because it just fit my needs best. It's been almost 4 years now and I have no complaints. You just have to know the quality today is sorely lacking. I had several sales people tell me 5-10 years. One said to cross my fingers and toes if you get to 5 years.

Speed Queen has been recommended here by several people. I did look at SQ but the selection was really limited and didn't appeal to me.

We owned a Whirlpool before the Maytag. Didn't do a great job of cleaning and after an incredible amount of research I decided on the Maytag model because it was similar to the Speed Queen. Additionally, I thought a machine with an agitator (like the old days) would get clothes cleaner. My Whirlpool was beautiful but didn't clean well. The Maytag is a basic white, just like my parents had back in the 60's. I thought eliminating the bells & whistles would help but I was sadly mistaken. A repairman recommended that I stay away from LG and Samsung due to their problems. But, it sounds as though you've had luck with LG. What model do you have?

lbucelli, the mechanism on those machines is reasonably simple. It's odd that so much trouble is happening. Three service techs were successively on-site for the same problems/symptoms until the pulley was replaced? The clutch (which isn't so much a clutch as a gear linkage) disengages to agitate and engages to spin ... which function is it not running?

Hmmm...our Whirlpool cleaned great but was so crazy loud my neighbor could hear it. The noise came first, then oil started spitting/spraying out from underneath. Then the water came. What a MESS! The repair technician said the $600 in repairs wasn't worth it. LOL, really???

Actually, a repairman told me the problems with LG and Samsung have more to do with getting parts than actual performance. Our daughter has a Samsung, and we have friends who have either LG or Samsung. Our daughter's Samsung washer is about 8 years old and they just had some repair work done that wasn't a big deal. No problem finding a repair technician or parts. Maybe it could depend on your location...?

I checked and the model # for our washer is WT5270CW...dryer is DLG4971W. Really pleased with both.

It took me a long time to decide on another washer. I was so paranoid about making another mistake. I'd no sooner make up my mind when I'd see bad reviews. The truth is you'll see bad reviews about every brand out there. As I mentioned before, don't get stuck on a brand. Shop for features and price that suit you.

dadoes, it doesn't spin.

The three techs were on site for the same problem until the pulley was replaced. We live in a major metropolitan area (Fairfax, VA, outside of Wash DC).

I am puzzled by your having to pay for a service call. Did your model come with something other than Maytag's own warranty?

I ask because, AFAIK, Maytag's factory warranty on the MVWP575 washers is supposed to be 5 years parts and labor for residential use and three years when the washer is used for "commercial applications." The ten year "parts only" coverage kicks in after the "parts-and-labor" coverage expires.

If somebody is telling you different, here's a link to the Maytag warranty document:

https://www.maytag.com/content/dam/global/documents/201809/warranty-w11123642-revC.pdf

Seems to me your 2019 washer still should be covered for both parts and labor whether you are using it at home or for a rental property.

For the most part they do not cover labor any more. I would be shocked if they actually did! It is a shame!!

Although I do see what you are saying jwvideo, "will pay for factory specified replacement parts and repair labor to correct defects in materials or
workmanship that existed when this major appliance was purchased" almost makes it sound like they will repair issues that would be a result of manufacturing. Hmmmm...

@lbucelli, I'm glad to see you again, although, I wish it was on a better note!

First off -- I am extremely disappointed, as I just recommended this exact machine to someone who was looking for a conventional washer.

One thing I would like the point out, is this is manufactured by Whirlpool. They also own the KitchenAid, Admiral, Estate, Jenn-Air brand, among others. The reason I point this out, is a few members who have had issues have been able to contact Whirlpool directly, and convince them to replace / send out another tech to look at their machines. It may be worth, calling and making a huge stink / issue, and seeing if you can escalate your complaint to a supervisor, or sending a email to the CEO's Office. https://www.elliott.org/company-contacts/whirlpool/

I would consider sending a email detailing that you are on your 3rd repair, that you are extremely disappointed, and how you purchased a "commercial" product at a premium, expecting reliability and can't fathom why this inferior product is being still sold. Your now sitting around buried with dirty laundry, etc.

If that does nothing / or they don't offer a solution, I would consider replacing the machine, after the latest repair, but most certainly NOT with a LG or Samsung Machine. And we can get into that later.

Once again, I'm sorry for what you are dealing with. Hopefully something better comes of this.

There should be fault codes recorded in the machine's memory that service techs can retrieve to diagnose the problem(s). The mechanism is simple as I mentioned above. Typical malfunctions involve 1) the mode shifter, 2) splutch assembly and pulley, 3) motor capacitor, 4) lid lock, 5) controller board, 6) basket hub.

Some cases involve the anchor nut for the transmission pulley loosening, which may or may not result in damage to the pulley and/or the splutch. Blue LocTite should be applied to the transmission drive shaft threads to secure the nut against loosening. Spin would be affected first, then agitation depending how far the nut loosens until the pulley falls off.

You could consider the suggestion of sending an email with the details. All I can offer is my numerous attempts to get help from Whirlpool with our washer were useless.

Everyone has an opinion with brands. Once I got past that it was much easier to make a choice.

I am from the Fairfax area and am surprised B&S is not being more supportive. They at one time had a reputation for being a quality organization. Regarding Whirlpool, I will say this for them: when we moved into our house here in TX we had a KA oven start losing its porcelain coating, and WP replaced the entire oven with little hassle. Overall our KA appliances have been a disappointment, except for maybe our microwave oven. I would never consider any laundry appliance that they manufacture now. Maytag was one of the brands I once had great respect and affection for, but not the current products. A real shame.

lbucelli, these photos are not your specific model but the mechanism design is the same.

A new transmission

The spin drive is the outer part. A metal block (separate piece, not shown) fits onto it and anchors to the drive tabs, the spin basket is bolted to the drive block. The agitator is bolted to the agitation drive shaft at the top which comes up inside the spin drive and can turn separately.

Transmission mounted under the tub.

Drive shafts at the bottom of the transmission. Agitation is the metal part in the center. Spin is the plastic exterior part.

The pulley bolts to the agitation shaft. The agitation shaft always turns when the motor runs. The motor runs in alternate directions (clockwise and counterwise) for agitation. The spin cam (white) fits onto the outer spin drive. The cam moves up and down via the mode shifter to shift into and out of spin. The gear splines on the cam mesh into the outer teeth on the pulley to drive the spin when the cam is lowered. The cam lifts up to disengage it from the pulley for agitation so the pulley drives only the inner shaft.

Shows the cam raised for agitation. The mode shifter has an arm that fits into the hook at my finger at the upper left to raise and lower the spin cam. Note the hook is in a different position on this photo vs. above. The mode shifter also has a sensor to monitor basket rotation so the control board 1) knows when spin has stopped to unlock the lid, and 2) doesn't shift into / out of spin when the basket is turning.

All the drive components

"Maytag was one of the brands I once had great respect and affection for, but not the current products. A real shame."

Sadly true. Both my siblings have Maytag washers over 32 years old. I've told them not to expect that from a new Maytag or any other brand. Today it's a real crap shoot no matter what you choose.

dadoes, do you do house calls? LOL! I'm am extremely impressed with the amount of time, effort and input you and Laundry Mich and everyone else has contributed to this thread. It makes me wonder if the service technician have been trained to your level of knowledge.

The latest is that they are coming our next Friday, May 7. Based upon online researching it sounds like the clutch is bad so I asked them to ensure they bring a clutch when they come, which they have ordered. Let's hope that the clutch gets to them prior to next Friday.

@lbucelli, I was just wondering, is there a update? Did the repair men resolve the issue? Did you reach out to Whirlpool?

This machine, is still something I'd like to continue to recommend. And I would love your input.

It has been an ongoing saga with Maytag, They came out on May 7 advising 3 parts were needed - control board, actuator and lower harness. When I called for status on Friday, May 14, Maytag advised they wouldn't be able to give me a status on the control board for another 2 to 3 weeks because it was on backorder, and then it would take another week to schedule a tech because they won't schedule tech until they have all parts. At that point, I'd had enough of Maytag.

In the interim, I'd been doing a lot of research on washing machines but they were difficult to find because of pandemic. I found good reviews on an Electrolux EFLS627 front loader (never had one before) and was able to get the last one on Friday. They delivered yesterday and I'm now a happy camper with a working washing machine. So far, I love it!

I would not recommend Maytag to anyone at this time. I was very disappointed with the quality control. And when I put a review on the Maytag web site, they advised me to reach out to Facebook instead of contacting me directly, even though they had my email. they had the same 'canned' response for all dissatisfied customers. BTW, I don't write bad reviews because I don't want to hurt someone's business but I had to this time because I don't want anyone to experience what I did. A machine that broke at 8 months old, and then continued to have problems.

Wow.

The plastic components are enough to steer me clear from these products.

Maytag washers had a plastic gear in the transmission for many years, nothing new about that. Whirlpool also in the direct-drive design produced from 1981 through 2012.

Yikes! This thread makes me nervous for the time when my decades-old Sears Kenmore washer and dryer (which clean and dry well and are still quiet) give up the ghost! And I don't want to even think about my 26 year old Sub Zero refrigerator/freezer. Seems that buying and maintaining appliances of all kinds has gotten soooo complicated and time-consuming over the years.

Just realized I probably jinxed myself by posting comment above. :(

Karen,

Sears, as you may know, doesn't itself produce Kenmore appliances. They source from the various manufacturers. The first three digits of Kenmore model numbers is a code for the source manufacturer. Your machines probably are Whirlpool (code 110.). The serial numbers are coded for the year and week of manufacture. Cite them if you want to know the age more accurately.

Hi dadoes! Knew but didn’t remember that fact until I read your comment. I was really just - lightheartedly - lamenting the amount of time, patience, and information required these days to select and then maintain home machines...especially when those machines don’t seem as durable as they used to be. Now I’m off to interact with one computer about diagnosing & fixing another computer system! :)

Why oh why are they making garbage nowadays compared to the stuff of yesteryear? You would think stuff would be improved.

Lament the selling of the Maytag brand. A co-worker gave me his 30 year old washer (swore it had never needed service), which I used for 6 years (no service) before gifting it (I was relocating) to a neighbor. She used it for 3 years before its demise at age 39. "They" don't make anything like they used to.

"Why oh why are they making garbage nowadays compared to the stuff of yesteryear?"

My first thought is they want our money more often than what used to be many years, such as the 39 years chiflipper just posted. As I posted previously, our Whirlpool died just after 4 years.

We have hard water. New FL machine has a "POD" holder but I've read that powder is best for front loaders. Powder work OK with hard water? Any suggestions?

Good luck with your new Electrolux. Sorry about your old, new one. That's terrible. Powder would be best to keep your washer free from muck. Use liquid sometimes if you like (or pods), but you'll stay out of the muck-zone using powder, hot water and sanitize cycle every now and then. Hoping you have better luck with this washer.

eta: hard water will increase your dosage amount by a little bit. If you can order some STPP on amazon and put that in with your detergent, it will help your detergent work and rinse better.

Sea Sea, Thank you for the info; I ordered the STPP. Do I put it in the same cup as the powder detergent, or in a separate area (ie, the one for bleach or fabric softener since I don't use these products)?

^^^ What dadoes said.

I purchased that Maytag commercial set after comparing it to Speed Queen, I've had it for about 3 years now, no issues. My daughter also purchased the same set 2 1/2 years ago, but she is using hers a lot more (every day) and she has not had any issues either, I would highly recommend them to anyone I know, and I have on multiple occasions.

Tom, i thought the same as you until last weekend. I am almost to year 4 and had zero problems until it just BROKE. washer filled with water and woukdnt drain, motherboard frozen, grinding metal sound coming from drum. cant get anyone at maytag to honor that 5 year warranty. just to have a tech show up is 145.00 plus whatever parts and additional labor i need. never again.

I have an old boss who recently listed her home in Maryland. I looked at the pictures, and when I got to the laundry room I saw her Maytag washer and dryer, circa mid 1980's. Beautiful condition. My folks' 20 plus year old Neptune dryer is still going strong. I don't think we will see that with any Maytag manufactured in the last 10 years. It is really sad to see once proud brands become just a name.

I could've sworn Maytag competed with Speed Queen Laundry!

The Maytag MVWP575GW washer has been replaced by the MVWP576KW which was the lowest-performing agitator washer of all models tested by CR. Its washing performance achieved a 1 out of a possible 5.