Well, that explains it... :-)
5 years ago
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well, it's not a peach tree it's a nectarine,,,now what??
Comments (10)Oh, I forgot to mention that orig owner said tree is 10 yrs old,,don't know variety,,also had what I interpreted as peach curl that didn't do anything about since didn't know what it was,,bore good fruit, but not every year. 1/Thinking that planting second tree for "insurance" is good idea. DO YOU THINK RAINTREE NURSERY IS GOOD FOR BAREROOT TREES? Reading lots of posts last night. 2/Can I do any preventative things to stop any peach borer or that gel moth from every happening? 3/Regarding the little tree that maybe rootstock...can I find out by digging between the 2 trees since only 3 ft apart, to see if any root links them? Trying to see ASAP if that baby tree should be pulled out since it is multi-trunked etc. Could I put new tree in that hole (or big tree hole if doesn't pan out) while waiting the 2-3 yrs after serious pruning to see if it will bear any decent fruit? That way by the time I know I can already have another on the way. Is it bad to replant a 2-3 yr old nectarine/peach (newbie tree) should this main one fizzle out? Just thinking outloud and know you guys are much better at this in real life than anything I could read from previous posts or in books. Thanks again, Nicole...See MoreIt's not marijuana, but well, what is it???
Comments (5)I got the impression that the flower spike belonged to a separate plant near the base of the larger plant. The larger plant looks almost identical to the hibiscus plants I have....See MoreWell this explains a lot . . .
Comments (3)Hey ! No fair ! Thats where I got my start in bromeliad collecting,(1989). Lots of good memories,and meeting Dennis,Linda,Wally and Dorthy Berg,and touring Selby. Actually,I can understand his dilema,a lifetime of effort,some hardships along the way,and retirement calling. But a very colorful life,and still good days ahead. Whatever the future,I wish them the best. Thanks for the information Mike. Good job. Bob...See More1st time Japanese maple prunning
Comments (2)First rule of pruning Japanese maples - use a very light touch. They require minimal pruning. 1) It is always acceptable to remove dead wood at any time. 2)Lower limbs help to establish trunk development - don't be too hasty in removing but if they become or encounter obstructions, go ahead. 3)Never remove more than a third of the total canopy mass at any given time. Unless you are thinning out a very mature JM - which yours is not - I can't envision when this rule would need to be exercised. JM's just do not require that much pruning. 4) Crossing limbs or those that rub together should be addressed. If not a concern now, ignore. In zone 8b, snowloads are generally not a concern - that would be the only other reason I might consider pruning. Other than removing any dead wood and possibly the removal of one of the lower branches (save the other for next year), I see no other reason to prune. And with the lace leaf, cascading branches are SOP. If they are hitting the ground you can trim them back slightly but for heaven's sake, untie them!! FWIW, my collection of Japanese maples gets pruned only to remove dead wood and the odd very wayward branch. A mature 'Sango Kaku' has been thinned once. Sources on Japanese maples often use the term 'judicious' pruning, indicating the need to exercise caution and discretion when pruning. Better to take off too little than too much :-)...See More- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
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