Thanks TXSkeeter! I believe you could be correct on both issues. The Door Repairman that told me the doors would have to be replaced before selling was not trying to sell me doors. He was encouraging me to keep the doors. He said in the San Diego, CA area many are of this type (since hard winters are not expected). IâÂÂll try to contact him to see if he can help me find heavier springs. The openers have worked since the mid 80s (with repairs), they or I could use a little help. I feel one set has stretched more from âÂÂCyclesâÂÂ/Use because it feels heavier. As far as I know these type doorâÂÂs weight is not balanced to stand open at any point. The springs should carry the bulk of the weight. I have seen single and double sheet metal doors that were almost impossible to open due to broken springs. ThatâÂÂs the #1 reason I w/n want a double wide door. They are handy with todayâÂÂs Trucks. Plus, if the house w/n designed âÂÂGood Newâ with the span for the double door, I feel you will get some sag. There is 2.5 âÂÂof 2X4 just above the case openings below the 3/4â Ply 2 Cabinet Units mounted vs built in. The 2X4 can go if needed to fit panel doors due to screws cabinet to framing and threaded rod bottom of cabinet to above supports on top of truss ceiling joists. The Over Kill in the 70s was my nature âÂÂBut Not TodayâÂÂ. Brass bushings and tempered bolts are fitted in the arms to allow more years. We or I had planned to move bake to a Simpler Life after retirement but things and Grands have changed. We moved here in 1973 on the last street, now there are miles of streets/homes south of us to the next towns. Enough Said!

If you use old hardware, make sure it is the type that can't come off of the track, like the one posted above. I have similar old rollers that I'm going to use. They roll on the outside of the pipe, but they still can't come off. I have childhood memories of a kid who narrowly missed disaster when he managed to knock a huge barn door off of the tracks, and it came crashing down. Most barn doors have a roller at the bottom which holds the door in line whether opened or closed. My hardware didn't come with one (or the pipe, for that matter), but it's easy enough to rig up something. My barn has modern hardware, and the bottom guide is just a plastic guide wheel. Probably not necessary indoors, unless you have pets or children that might push the door outward. I'm going to try to find a small vintage roller when I install mine. I'm also trying to figure out a clever way to latch the door, as ours will be on the powder room, and some folks like to be able to secure the door when using the 'facilities'.

"I went to work in an office that had a pocket door that never worked right because someone had driven nails into it at some point and it was never the same after" (palimpsest) Yes. This happened to us when DH nailed the baseboard on the wall between the laundry and kitchen. The door came off track. When we renovate I will replace or remove. However, this was builder grade. On our extension I added three pocket doors. The one I had put in for the powder room is a solid core door, not thinner than most doors, as I wanted as much sound-dampening as possible with such a device. We used Johnson Hardware - not the home depot variety which runs $ 40 or so, but commercial grade. Look at the Johnson site under 1500 Commercial Grade and you will also find non-standard size frames (door max thickness 1 3/4"). Use a good carpenter.

Aside from the fact that your rough opening may be manipulated to accommodate a barn door, does the overall style of your home support this door style? Since the show Fixer Upper, I feel like there is a barn door epidemic that really does not relate well to most homes and looks strange and out of place. Aside from the function question, I think the style question also needs to be raised for your space in order to ensure your home remains cohesive as well as functional.