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Home Decorating Design Dilemma Flooring

Best option to transition from tile floor to wood

3 years ago

I am remodelling my condo and separated the kitchen with the tile.Now I am looking for the best transition options from tile to wood. The level is the same, I saw a 1/4 inch break strips used before, however I looks like the wood must be finished perfectly in order to do this transition, unless I can put the edge that goes under to the floor side, the metal will than cover the edge if the floor. Tiles that go against are uncut so it should be pretty clean. My cobtractor suggesting the t strip but I feel like this is not something that correctly in style, although if someone could help me find a flat t strip may be that would work. Thanks for the help.

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Comments (3)

kculbers
3 years ago
I have this same issue. I am having a very experienced carpenter make custom oak floor transition pieces ( from my wood look Pergo kitchen floor to the porcelain wood look tiles) that will be the same stain color of my oak stairs. He will also make one going from my porcelain wood look tiles to my wall to wall rug. Best of luck to you❣️
SJ McCarthy
3 years ago
The Schluter strip transition is one of the best options. You only need a 'T' molding if your wood flooring is floating. If your wood floor is permanent you can have a properly level transition used.

Your tiler sets up the schluter transition or you can pay your WELL TRAINED wood flooring installer to create a level (most like custom) flat molding.

Either way it works.

Is your wood floor a permanent floor (nail/glue/staple/cleats) or is it 'floating'?
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OK, so basically there is no magic bullet that I'm just unaware of. So fabrication: The piece that abutts the tile should be level with the tile and the thickness of the tile and thinset. The part that will cover the wood floor will receive the rabbett. If the tile and thinset is roughly 1/2" and the wood is slightly lower (maybe an 1/8th), about how overall thick should I make the piece? 3/4"? Also, would you fasten it with a bead of adhesive then nail and putty? Thanks
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If acoustics is something that concerns you (keeping noise out of a space is more difficult than you can imagine) I would look at something like a floating cork floor (click-together) with a 1/4" cork underlayment. The two put together can have the same acoustic insulation as 4-6" worth of poured concrete (20 dB or so). If you are worried about spills or animal issues, then a coat or two of polyurethane can be added to the floor once it is installed. Cork is impervious to moisture....but it the SEAMS are the weak part of this chain. A laminate seam sealer will also work...but I prefer the 2 coats of water based poly because it adds tremendous amounts of WEAR protection as well as moisture protection. It is an option...which is to say it is a 'wood' product (cork oaks produce cork bark for the cork industry) which takes over all the duties of carpet...without being carpet. It's kinda cool that way. Just a thought.
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"https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5839841/hardwood-and-tile-floors-both-squeak-after-transition-strip-replaced#n=2" Did you not see the answers from the other day? Post pics that may help as well.
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Photos would help us help you boost them here in the comments
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Lana Shulman
Original Author
3 years ago
I think it’s permanent. When we measured with laser it was completely straight line but after laying tiles it starts flash with floors but goes about 1/4 inch gap to wards the end. I think by the time we get to the end it will be more than 1/4 inch. I was thinking to take off more about 4 inches of wood and lay a piece of sand wood opposite direction to make a transition point but that will probably only work if time end up flash with floor height that I will see only after wood is sanded.

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