custom, as in a local person..and finished locally. ? Is it PEELING or SEPARATION w wood changes ? ..don't do it yourself....you have to mess w it to smoothe it out/ touch up and/or fill??? to do a good job. ... The maker should have a look [is he still there and you can reach him?] and there's a couple ways to address whatever this is.....if this is the only location at issue.... Every door???

It’s every door and yes separation. The maker was a very nice man but not someone I would rehire. There were major quality issues with all our custom millwork paint finish throughout the house—think he cut corners on priming the wood—so I don’t want to go back to him.

can you get the exact paint? call a good finisher.

I have the exact paint but what would they be doing?

I was more thinking about how it can be covered somewhat decoratively, are there no options?

That is not peeling. That is bridging of the paint between the floating center panel, and the stiles and rails. They sprayed the coats too heavily during the finish process, and didn't pick out that bridging. Winter shrinks wood, so everything shrank but the coating. Which is why you are getting that bridging cracking and looking so nasty.

The cure is to pick out all of that with dental picks, and fold a piece of sand paper and lightly sand the contact area of the panel and frame. Then use an artists brush to lightly prime with BIN, and the topcoat. Depending on what that topcoat was. Never ever caulk joins of floating panels. This is well covered in the Kitchen Cabinet Painting Experts group on Facebook.

Also get a humidifier to maintain the humidity in your home during winter. Indoor air should be between 30%-60%, year round. Your air is too dry. As humidity levels increase from spring to summer, snd the wood swells, your problem will disappear. It will reappear when the weather turns and things dry out. The dry season is the time to address it

as above: if you have the paint , it would be better than "covering" w any kind of profile piece. you could create a profile for the 3/8 inch return part of the frame where it connects w recessed flat panel. but if you have the paint.....it can be dealt with. I wouldn't necessarily say for anyone to fiddle w this, EVERY DOOR.... like Beth or COOKS KITCHEN could/would... call a finisher/painter. If you have a good paint store..BEN MOORE paint...they usually have a list of guys doing interior cabinet work. Do this first before you adhere a profile strip .I think the outcome will be fine......main thing is that you have the paint. You can have great skill w brushes and fine work but getting the match to blend properly is so often the obstacle.

Thank you both. One question, if I went profile strip route, is there such a thing as brass or other colors, and is there somewhere I can even research that? I’m just worried bc of the low craftsmanship of the cabinetry overall that the paint issues are going to be ongoing.

I would not recommend the addition of any profile. The difficulty of that is higher than the touch up. You would need a cabinet maker. And it will have the same normal shrink/expand issues. At that point, you might as well buy new doors and have them finished properly.

Do you know what finish they used for the cabinets?