Old pine floor questions: need advice on treatment/stain/finish! Thx!
H J
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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hu818472722
3 years agoH J
3 years agoRelated Discussions
would you finish this old pine floor?
Comments (13)Yeah, just go for it! People pay good money for antique, reclaimed, and/or distressed wood flooring. No "ifs" - It WILL work, if you do a careful sanding and finishing job. If the sample in the photo is any indication, you'll have beautiful honey colored floors and IMHO, removing them does compromise the authenticity of your 150 yr old house. It will look "rustic" in the sense of being old, but not in the sense of being rough or crude or grungy. I just re did my old pine floors on its last legs using Bona Deeptone sealer + Mega poly finish and it exceeded all expectations. Others may suggest using Waterlox or some other easily renewed finish (I would go the latter route if your floors are still reasonably thick - I only went with the poly because mine were sanded down by PO to the tongue and groove and there was still poly on it in places - so I was pretty much stuck with poly) Don't use drum sander, don't get hung up on it looking "new" or unblemished but do sand enough to brighten the wood, take out surface scratches and stains and smooth to a silky smooth feel. The buffer or orbital sander using a higher grit would do it - maybe start with 80 and end with 180-240. If hiring it out, make sure they're in tune with the concept of antique floors and not into extreme sanding to make them look new. Some guys are, but some aren't. They are not making 150 year old old growth flooring anymore and leaving it/preserving it is really the best thing esthetically and in terms of dollars and sense. Law of supply and demand right? Yes soft woods will dent but just a little care is all you need - remove shoes, go over with a dust mop periodically to pick up dirt and abrasive matter. The wear your family puts on it just becomes part of its history - and having an easily renewed finish means you'll just re-do it periodically without it being a big deal....See MoreHow to refinish 160 year old pine floors
Comments (4)Looks like a soft pine (white pine or spruce) therefore getting a commercial drum sander to remove the paint is going to remove a lot of material in a hurry. Then applying a finish like polyurethane, which can only be removed by sanding (again) locks you into a cycle wherein your historic material is carted to the landfill as dust in garbage bags. Within a few cycles, the flooring will be abraded down to the t&g, and effectively ruined. The good new as I see it is that these floors have not been previously sanded, as they apparently been covered with area rugs and a painted border (a very typical treatment in the 19th century). There's no reason why you couldn't repeat this, and choose your personal floor paint color, and use a Persian (or a modern rug) of an appropriate size. It would look 100% authentic. There is an issue of which I must make you aware. Those never-painted central patches are never going to match the wood underneath the painted borders if both of them are stripped down. The bare patches have 160 years more oxidation head start, and will be darker when varnished. Artful (painfully so) staining work can diminish the differences a great deal, as will a flat finish, but this is really an art, and a historic floor specialist (or experienced, determined homeowner who's good at wood finishing, or gets ones self to that point) would need to take charge. We hand scrape old/historic floors where there is high regard for them or they are nearing the point where the t&g will become exposed. Our hand scraping bears no relationship to the current factory process of intentionally putting scraper tracks into material for the sake of added texture. We are scraping to have total control inch by inch over how much material gets removed, where; to keep material removal to the minimum level to render the floorboards smooth and finish-ready. The scraper gives complete control and can leave an even layer of oxidised wood (patina) that a power-sanding would render very much flatter, but with infinitely varying degrees of patina. With a cupped board, fo instance, a sander will sand the cupping completely out, in the process removing less material at the center (low point of the cup) and greatly more material at the edges, rendering two lighter stripes and a darker center. On wide pine boards this is very pronounced. This is too long, sorry, here is a pic of one of our scraped-process floors, of wide heart pine, where there had been very bad weathered. sun-faded patches in line with the window, and the 14-16" wide boards would not have withstood drum sanding. Casey...See MorePine floor finish after bleaching old water stains
Comments (3)That worked great and didn’t turn the floor green like the baking soda solution I tried first. Thanks!...See MoreToo much pine... planning on painting. Need your advice!
Comments (99)There is no chance of us redoing the floors. They were done only a short time ago and are of good quality. While I may not have chosen them myself, we do like them and they work with the ceiling and will be great for not scratching from sand brought in on bare feet. Cabins in our area come at a premium. The square footage cost is 5 times that of the square footage cost to build our home again and they often go into bidding wars. So you can understand that we have a very limited budget to make it our own after the purchase. That's why we feel so fortunate that the previous owner looked after things so well and took pride in maintaining their vacation property so that we're at least not having to put money into maintenance issues. Most properties we had looked at had a ton of maintenance issues to contend with first. Since the floors and ceiling work well together, that's why we thought painting the walls for a more lake house look and addressing the kitchen cabinet fronts to "demodernize" them were our best options to start for our three season get away. We will definitely put one good sized area rug in the living area, but with everyone coming up from the dock/beach all day long, a ton of rugs won't work well. If I paint, would SW Alabaster work in the living/dining area with the warm wood ceiling, fireplace and northwest daylight? Or do you have other suggestions for a paint color? And do you like the rugs in my links? jjam you said go light. They're light with a touch of navy, but washed out vintage like. I've attached the links again below. What do you think? Thank you to everyone for trying to make this an extra special place for my family... Possible rug? Another possibility? Rug with soft colors - have one in my home Much lighter than appears in picture...See MoreH J
3 years agoH J
3 years agoMaryKat
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agokempek01
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoCeladon
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agomjlb
3 years agoG & S Floor Service
3 years agoH J
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agomillworkman
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoH J
3 years agohu818472722
3 years agonibling
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agol pinkmountain
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoheatheron40
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agongifford87
2 years agoKaterina N
2 years ago
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