The area where you live (super hot climate vs. temperate) will dictate which is more appropriate for your situation. Someone in Seattle would be happier with LVT than someone in Florida. In Florida, tile is the norm, whereas in temperate areas or areas with a true winter, the tiles would be poo-pooed by the next homeowner. The value of your home is also part and parcel as to what works. It would be ill advised to install $25K worth of tile if your home is only worth $100K. The opposite is true of course. The true measure should also be the homeowner themselves. There are LVT products out there that are phthalates free (more expensive) and allow or have cork underlayment as part of their construction (again, more expensive). The cork underlayment will help (a little bit) with the echo in the space. And BTW...both vinyl and tile will have almost identical issues with echo. The vinyl will be a SNICK better. If you add the cork (assuming it is allowed) it will be a bit better than that. But that's as good as it gets. Both have issues with noise. A vinyl plank with all the things you want = $4-$6/sf for material. Install is a bit cheaper than tile...but if this is glued down then it won't be much cheaper. At the end of the day, a HIGH END glue down vinyl plank with an allowed cork underlay (also glued) will cost the SAME amount as a nice porcelain tile installed. Once all the bills are paid, you are going to be within a few hundred dollars of each other. Which leads me to say - get what you want and what works for your family. Be aware of the inherent value of your home and your area but get what works for YOU. And remember: babies are only little for a few years. After that they become more adept at avoiding hurtful situations.

Another thing to consider when looking at the engineered floors is plank length. I just realized why I didn't like some of the photos I saw ... they had too many short pieces which gives the floor a choppy look and to me, it looks too much like a tile effect. The Uptown Floors suggested above sound great, and I will look at them more closely, but they still have "shorter" board (12" to 8 ft). I am looking at another company with board lengths from 3 ft to 12 ft. Those longer boards make a big difference in the overall look in a larger open floor plan. The longer boards do cost more, so I need to do some more comparisons and value of spending more for a more pleasing look. Their other specs are mostly similar. I think floors are going to be my hardest decision!

I cannot fully explain how truly beautiful the bed is...I love the concept of using the rubber wood and to see the Japanese joinery in action is something else. My husband was very surprised at how easily and quickly this bed was assembled, and the price was much lower than other beds I had considered. As for the storage beds, we bought one for my son and it has almost negated his closet. I considered one for us and actually was pretty set on it until we made some upgrades to our closets and bought a better dresser. In the end, I felt the storage bed would make the room feel "heavier" and I decided against it. I'm glad I did because we love the Thuma bed. Good luck! Your closets are beautiful.

The 'change' is not in opinion...it is in YOUR location. The original concept for THAT poster = slab above grade. Yours is BELOW grade. Gluing down is always a risk below grade. We MUST assume your slabs vapour barrier has been breached. MUST. It is the ONLY safe way to approach this. Your sales person is doing her job. She has experienced the difference between a glue down (over well prepared concrete) vs a floating floor that was POORLY prepared. Yes. There is a difference. The DIFFERENCE in 'feeling' is in the 'proper' vs. 'poorly' prepared concrete. A well prepared subfloor = a solid feeling floor. Always. That adds a huge amount of cost to your project for a glue down option. You would need to add in $3-$5/sf for concrete SEALING...and then you start dealing with the installation/floor prep costs. A glue down vinyl is top of the table...yep. It is what gets 40-50 years out of a floor. The COST is staggering. The adhesive adds another $2/sf to the cost of the floor....especially below grade. And yes, any slab that has even 1" of it below the surface of the ground means the ENTIRE THING is considered 'under ground' = below grade. That's how it is supposed to be looked at. If you do not want the chemicals, then go with floating. Remember: your concrete must be flat....that can add $3/sf to prepare. And you need a vapour barrier (10mil polyethylene sheeting) and then the vinyl can be put down. A floating floor = more expensive to purchase but cheaper to install (all the way around). Your sales person may not be educated in MOISTURE mitigation. Even a single course on moisture mitigation (4 hours) will illuminate her and would allow her to understand a glue down floor vs. a glue down BELOW grade. Two very different beasts.