I find it interesting that so many people here whine about not knowing wood would have grain, or mitered corners shift, etc., yet you're mentioning "too smooth!" Arrrghhh!!! That would be the perfect, imaginary factory wood finish, wouldn't it? Anyway, I don't have a lot to offer, other than the experience that if the MDF is absolutely sealed with paint/finish, whatever, it shouldn't react to humidity -- as you've experienced in your display. IRL, you have families hitting, slamming, rubbing, hanging off, scraping and abusing the doors and drawer fronts. It might (might) chip. As far as a glaze or brush stroke effect, why wouldn't that be as simple as painting with a brush? It's just paint, which after primer and the base coat, is going to act just like paint acts. If you leave brush strokes (or glaze) it's gonna be there. I have seen the 5-piece drawers and drawer fronts. I've also seen the panels MDF (for warping) and the rails and stiles in wood. Both are lovely. I agree with you on the 1-piece with rounded routes. na-huh. Way-cheap-o looking. Cheap, as in no quality, not as in inexpensive. All that said, I guess I'd check into the type of finish and how many coats, types of sealer, etc. That's going to make or break your doors. I suggest asking about Cabinet Coat as a paint finish. Have fun with this new option!

Thank you everyone for your time. I appreciate your feed back and value your opinions. I am a reasonable person and just looking for advice to ensure that I am not being taken advantage of. My contract clearly states, Maple. We have had our kitchen custom made with dovetail soft close drawers and hard rock melamine boxes. We had originally gotten quotes at those box retail stores as we started to layout our dream kitchen. It was than, when I was doing my research that we decided we wanted wood. I don’t expect to get anything for free. I just want to pay for what I got. For the size of our project, I was originally quoted $55k for wood and $40k for MDF with the box retailers. The plan was to wait for a “Kitchen Event” when they would offer 20% discount or save the tax. That way we could get the wood kitchen for the approximate price of MDF. Therefore, I know there is a price difference between wood and MDF. I also realize this price point was for the entire project, including install. When working with my overall contractor, he suggested getting a quote from this custom cabinetry/woodworking company. I was pleasantly surprised, when we were able to get exactly what I wanted IN WOOD as well as not having to sacrifice any inches, as compared with the box retailers. We were able to fully customize our sizes, where the box retailers limited you to standard size boxes with fillers. More importantly, since they came in right at our budget of $40k, I did not get them to specifically quote us on their price difference between MDF and wood. We did not pay upfront, as I recommend no one ever do! We did everything right, paid the deposit, paid an installment upon delivery and last installment upon completion. We must have been blinded by the beauty. Keep in mind, we went through a $200k 16-month renovation. We took it right back to the studs, knocked out walls, no flooring, no ceiling, limited lights, limited plumbing, dust and dirt and no kitchen for about 6 weeks. So, once it stated to get put back together, we were just so thrilled, that honestly didn’t look that closely. As others have commented it is hard to tell the difference between wood and MDF when they are painted. We were also well aware of the risks. That the paint could crack/chip if the wood expended etc. However, we never wanted to deal with MDF again, after ripping it out of our old kitchen. The main benefits of wood for us, was knowing they would be more durable, and we could repaint them in future. Apples to Apples, I just can’t find a clear-cut answer on the price difference for wood to MDF based just on the door fronts/panels. I realize some say there is no price difference, but I have quotes stating otherwise. But on a percentage basis, I am not sure what the door/panels cost in relation to the whole project. Regardless of price, they will have to replace all the fronts with wood, according to my contract. They have admitted to making a mistake. I would have been willing to accept financial consideration if it had been reasonable. I honestly, don’t think he is being reasonable at $9/door or panel. If he must replace it all, with new material, labour to make and labour to install it will cost him a lot more than $700. I don’t feel I am being unreasonable, nor does my overall contractor. I was just hoping to get a better idea on the price difference between the two. Since we were only looking at getting the fronts replaced. I am not sure it is fair to use the price difference of the entire project as a comparison. I have limited time during regular business hours, usually the only time when the custom places are open. Reason why my other quotes of from box retailers who are open until 9-10pm at night. I was only looking for some guidance where it is available 24 hours a day! I plan on taking the time now to get our plans re-quoted at 2-3 custom cabinetry places, even if I have to pay for them to do it. I will be seeking legal advice as I suspect the difference to be in the thousands on this size of project.

Who knows what happens in the future.. I think the structural laminate panels make a terrific looking counter particularly for a modern aesthetic---which is what I assume the OP is seeking given that OP wants a 3/4" counter and a waterfall. I mentioned it as an alternative because no one else had suggested it. And because it can have a life after it serves as a counter. With stone, not so much. There just isn't much use for a discarded stone or quartz countertop. Beyond tossing it in a canyon for erosion control. Not that you will be tossing it. More like rolling it over the edge with the help of your friends.

@User notes, "Most of the custom ones in my orbit are actually using Medex or ultra refined." This starts by disqualifying 95% of cabinetmakers and then discusses the quality of the 5%. Let me offer a piece of wisdom that is far more insightful than any discussion on sheet goods... Quality cabinetmakers will find ways to make quality cabinets, while cabinetmakers who don't make quality cabinets will not suddenly start just because of a material change. I have to order MR50 MDF in lift quantity and typically if a regional supplier is ordering truckloads of special order products they are going to go ahead and keep a couple of pallets in stock. Since my regional supplier has two of the 50 most populous metro areas, I am dubious that it is widely used even in custom cabinets. --- Doors: MDF has a finish ready core and so if you are doing any type of raised panel door then there is a good reason to use MDF. Even high quality veneer core plywood doesn't have a finish ready core and so is not a great product when anything other than the faces will be exposed. Cabinet boxes: There is no advantage to choosing MDF over plywood other than cost. Having said that, there is no advantage to choosing copper electrical wire over silver electrical wire other than cost. Because we design cabinet boxes to only need compressive strength, MDF is good enough for cabinet boxes. It doesn't even approach the structural strength of plywood and doesn't have the impact resistance, but they are just kitchen cabinets and MDF is less expensive. There are plenty of good MR 50 NAF MDF's (moisture resistant for 50 minutes, No Added Formaldehyde), but there are also BS1088 and BS6566 plywood that are literally used to make boats. NAF MDF is a fine product and I wouldn't have a problem with it in my home. It doesn't really outperform comparable plywood, but it doesn't need to. A great cabinetmaker should consider the performance and price of materials and there is nothing wrong with finding a material that will hold up well enough for a great price. A note on MDF entry doors. An entry door built from compressed sugar will last four months if you put a great coating on it. MDF isn't very impact resistant and I wouldn't build a door out of any type of MDF unless I skinned it in something that is, and reinforced the hinge and bolt areas. I mean a good sized 12 year old could kick the entire lock assembly out of an MDF door.