There are three boards in it. The display board in the console (connects to the sensor board) takes the user input and runs the cycles. The sensor board mounted at the left side beside the drum reads the drum RPM and position for opening/closing, takes input from the temperature thermistors and thermostats and moisture sensor, operates the door grabber/opener/closer and lid lock. The motor board mounted in the base at the left side operates the motor, and electric elements or gas valves.

May be a flaky display board.

Display board sounds like the likely culprit.

the difficult thing is trying to find a replacement board.

parts are becoming difficult to come by for These machines.

any suggestions on where to get the part?

EDIT. never mind. I found a few places online.

Check eBay. Either just the board ... or a full console with the board included. Check that the harness cable is included, although you can swap the cable from your old board for another SmartLoad console or board.

Note that any topload dryer can be changed to any of the various models by changing the console/display board. They're all the same other than the display board and button overlay to match (the motor board is different for gas vs. electric). The Intuitive SmartLoad and AeroSmart models have different button layouts than the basic SmartLoad models so the full console with overlay would be needed.

The top-of-line LCD AeroSmart model has a capacitive touchpanel with a fancy-smanchy user interface and many programmed cycles but they don't add much useful functionality. The LED AeroSmart model with physical buttons is fine.

The Intuitive SmartLoad model has the programmed cycles with an LCD and button interface (different overlay than non-Intuitive).

I upgraded an LED AeroSmart I bought used to the LCD AeroSmart model via a used console purchased on eBay. I have the LED panel but keeping it for a spare in case of trouble.

Of course one takes the requisite risk buying used boards/panels.

There's still a chance that the sensor or motor board could be involved. Can't access diagnostics for fault codes if the display board/panel is wonky.

Thx for the info Dadoes.

I found a few places online selling new display boards.

Now I just need to decide if I want to put the money into this dryer or bite the bullet and get a new one, especially not knowing if there are more issues than just the display control board. The washer and dryer are both over 15 years old.

Dadoes -

how do I remove just the circuit board from the back of the housing?

thx.

mm

I wouldn't spend a whole lotta money on a 15 yo machine. You have to decide that beforehand. also - how long do you want to hang up your laundry to dry before you get annoyed?

Press the (gray arrow) tab down, grab the tab at the left (red arrow) and slide the board to the left to align the slots around the perimeter and lift it out of the housing.

These F&P topload dryers are unique, work very well in my experience since buying one in 2004. I have bought three more used ... passed my original to my mother, refurbed one of the used for myself, other two are spares.

Well, no luck.

I bought a used control panel off EBay for $35 bucks.

I installed the new display board. And still no response when pushing any buttons.

The machine still goes through its start up beeps when you plug it in. But no sounds or lights on the control panel.

The eBay listing said it came off a working machine. I can only assume that is true and the part isn’t bad.

So at this point, I think I have no choice but to purchase a new dryer.

Bummer....I loved this machine. So easy to clean and maintain. I got about 15 years out of it....so not bad, I guess.

Dadoes - any suggestions on dryer brands/models?

Also, thanks for all the help over the years with this machine and my GWL11 washer.

Hopefully, the washer still has some left in it....

mm

You might pull the front panel, check for burned wires at the motor board. The top must be raised for that, which gives access to the sensor board which could be examined for evidence of a blown component. Presumably you've checked for a tripped breaker (one leg of the 240v).

I haven't bought a new laundry appliance in years but a Whirlpool or Maytag dryer would be my go-to. Many appliances are in short supply due to COVID impacts on production so you may have to take what you can find. I read recently that some manufacturers made supply decisions last year that had an effect of reducing construction quality but Whirlpool chose not to do that ... assuming the info is valid.

Machinery can be confounding, and electronics particularly can be fickle.

The machine has been working consistently since my last post. But we have been very gentle with it.

Today I took the machine out of its place and decided to do a good lint cleaning on the machine. Cleaned the vent pipe and outside outlet. Took off the lower rear panel of the dryer and cleaned the fins on the blower.

I took apart the lint filter housing.

Lots of lint buildup there AGAIN.

And I just replaced the lint screen a little over a year ago and it has failed again.

That really seems to be a weak part of this machine. The screening is so fine on the lint filter any little granule seems to tear it.

A replacement lint screen is about $100 or so. Frustrating.

I’ll order that and hope the display panel stays working.

I just wish I could figure out what causing the panel to be intermittent like it was.

I didn’t see any evidence of issues with the connections on the side of the dryer (in the picture I posted here).

thanks for the help.

mm

Last screen I bought seems to be made of more sturdy material than previously.

I haven't directly checked the condition in a few years.

There was a design change on the bucket housing which eliminated the raised rings on the backside to help minimize lint accumulation.

The problem with a torn screen is it allows lint to pass through and build-up below in the somewhat narrow route to the blower, which can obstruct airflow.

Be diligent about shaking debris out of everything before washing, or before transferring from washer to dryer.

Dadoes-

forgot to ask you...

Now that the display panel is working, how can I go about accessing any fault codes?

Do you think there will be any fault codes from when the display panel would not function?

thanks.

mm

I'll address this in a few days when (hopefully) the electric power instability here has settled. New normal = what needs to be done and can be done while power is on.

There aren't many codes on the dryers. Washer codes are much more detailed. Fault codes are in the display module so depends which panel you have on as to what code is in it.

Take your time. You obviously have more pressing issues at the moment...

Sounds like you are down South....best of luck to you...that's a lot of winter for an area that's not prepared for it....

Presumably the panel you have on it is the same as the original. Keybuttons to access diagnostics functions are different on the various panels.

-- Machine turned off. Press/hold Auto Dry Down, then press Power at the same time. Release both when the panel activates. Press Power to exit diagnostics. Or disconnect the power cord for several seconds.

There are several levels of diagnostics. Most of them are for engineering development and factory testing, not useful for operational troubleshooting. Auto Dry Up and Down buttons switch between levels.

Initial is level 0.

-- Last Fault is level 3. Press Auto Dry Up three times. Fault code is displayed in binary via the Drying Progress LEDs. There are 22 fault codes so I'll list them in following reply.

-- Sensor bars test is level 5. Press Auto Dry Up two more times. Or exit Diagnostics, start over, and press it five times. Touch a damp cloth or your fingers across the sensor bars, the pattern of LEDs on the panel should change as moisture is registered and then dissipates when the bars are not touched.

There is a Data Download mode for use with an optical reader tool. I imagine you don't have one ... but it's accessed by entering diagnostic mode and pressing the Regular cycle button. The reader is placed at the red Auto Sensing LED.

There is a Showroom Mode, which flashes the panel LEDs randomly to attract attention in a store display. Cycles can presumably be set but the machine won't start. Disconnect the power cord or toggle the breakers off to exit Showroom Mode.

Codes are interpreted via the Drying Progress LEDS, adding from right to left: 1, 2, 4, 8, 16.

1 = Communications Error (between the sensor board and motor board)

2 = Drum Gap Cannot Be Located ... a gap in the pattern of dimples embossed on the right side of the drum, which are optically read by the sensor board to determine drum RPM, rotational direction, and "home" position for opening/closing the drum door.

3 = Drum Stalled.

4 = Invalid Option Link Read (problem with the motor board detecting the heat source option (presumably electric vs.gas)

6 = (Drum) Door Jammed

7 = Motor Current Excessive

8 = Exhaust Sensor Over Temperature

9 = Exhaust Sensor Under Temperature

10 = 24 Volt Supply Measurement Error

11 = Lid Lock Open Circuit

12 = Lid Lock Switching Device Failure

14 = Sensor Module Fault

15 = Sensor Module Fault

16 = Airflow Restriction (presumably detected via erratic readings from the thermostats on the heater box)

20 = Door Actuator Stalled

21 = Door Actuator Required Excess Voltage

22 = Door Actuator Open Circuit

23 = Door Actuator Movement Interrupted by Low Voltage

24 = Door Actuator Movement Took Too Long

28 = Data Retrieval Error Following Loss Of Power

29 = Brown-Out Data Retrieval Error

30 = Lid Lock Unable to Lock

Michael and Dadoes I'm glad the collaboration has your dryer back in operation again, I have the same dryer and hoping it keeps going since I'm now so used to the ease of toploading, auto lint filter cleaning and no more balled up damp in the middle sheets with the auto reverse. I bought a used one to keep in garage as a spare, maybe you can have a chance to do the same.

Thank You Dadoes for all the info sharing! On my way home to apply some of this treasure trove of knowledge!