oops, meant we bought it in 2005.

There is a known issue with *some* (not all) of the early DEGX1/DGGX1 dryers having a defective drum bearing, either insufficient lubrication or the bearing housing can develop hairline cracks. Squeaking/Creaking noises during operation are a symptom. F&P issued a service bulletin on this several years ago, with a replacement bearing kit being the fix. Your service tech should be aware of it already, or should be able get access to the info if not already aware. If the problem has been happening for that long (and your service tech can provide documentation of it), F&P should be contacted to check if they'll cover the repair.

FWIW, my DEGX1 bought on 10/8/2004 hasn't had any trouble. I have cleaned the lint filter housing a couple times (easy DIY, one screw involved), the last time after drying a down comforter that lost a few bits of feather.

thanks for letting me know. I'll contact the service tech and tell him, It doesn't seem like they know much about FP unfortunately.....

Sandlll --

Is the squeaking sound you were getting sound like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71TH5LTVGfI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlKwugfSIg

I have been having the creaking problem on and off for the last couple years. Thankfully the dryer has stopped yet.

The service dept from my dealer is gonna be coming out in about a week to help me fix the problem (hopefully F&P will cover under warranty). My unit is about 2.5 years old. I've read good things on this site about F&P covering things under warranty even after the 2 years is up.

Good luck...

any updates sandlll??

dadoes:
You said:
I have cleaned the lint filter housing a couple times (easy DIY, one screw involved), the last time after drying a down comforter that lost a few bits of feather.

How did you do that? I have a great deal of lint now coming out my vent. I clean the catcher every load, but that doesn seem to help.

Your filter screen may be torn, letting lint through.

Have a Phillips screwdriver ready. Remove the lint bucket. Remove the screw that's toward the bottom inside the housing. The grill can then be removed. Tilt it out from the bottom first, then down and out. When reinstalling, insert at the top first. The bracket-looking piece at top of the housing is the lint scraper. Be careful not to pinch the sensor wires.

There's also a recessed screw at the bottom of the large circular ring below the sensor bars. Remove it, then press your hands on the surface of the ring and rotate it slightly clockwise. It will detach from the drum and can be removed. The circular lint screen is attached to the ring and will come out with it as a unit.

The ring can be removed without first removing the bucket housing, but you'll want to remove the housing to check for lint accumulation behind it. When reinstalling the ring, orient it so that the screw will align properly when the ring is turned slightly counterclockwise.

You can carefully unsnap the filter from the ring if you wish to clean it. If it's torn and needs replacement, www.searspartsdirect.com carries F&P parts.

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Mine has a cracked lid and 9 months old. At first I was going to have to pay around $200 for the replacement lid. I was insistent that it should be covered under warranty. Then they emailed me and said it was on it's way. $200 for this cheap plastic lid seems really high. Looks like it might be worth $50 tops. The dryer is pretty awsome but the washer is only so-so. Any frontloader I have used is much better at stain removal and don't wrinkle the clothes as much.

Milo2000, a lid at the source I mentioned is $86. Another source lists it at $89.

There's no reason for the lid to crack unless it's abused. It's not under any stress in normal use. My GWL08 washer will be 10 years old next month. My IWL12 washer and DEGX1 dryer five years in October. The lids on all of them are perfectly fine.

I have a GWL10 that will start a regular cycle, run through the water fill part, then power off. You can't turn it back on until you pull the plug for a while. I replace the control board and it still does it. I am going to try to get a code using the procedure above. Will let you know what it is when I do. thanks.

cramnitram, your pump may be the problem. GWL10 has a different electrical design, used on just that model. The pump is part of the machine's power circuit to the controller board, among other functions. The pump motor has an (auto-resetting) overload protector. If it overheats and shuts off, the entire machine will effectively be dead until the protector cools and resets. So, examine your pump for signs of leaking or a bad bearing, or perhaps accumulated lint/debris in the tub outlet and around the impeller that may be putting it under a load. If you have access to a volt/ohm meter, the pump should read 33 ohms. If there are ANY signs of a leak at the pump, DO NOT continue using the machine until the problem is corrected. A pump with damaged/corroded windings due to water exposure can go to high resistance and burn out the controller board.

Pulling the pump is easy, no tools needed. It mounts to a metal plate beneath the tub. Unplug the machine, remove the wires from the pump. Look for a plastic latch on the plate. Hold the latch and rotate the entire pump body counterclockwise, it'll drop off the mounting plate. Have towels ready for any residual water in the tub sump. Lube the pump's seal face with liquid dish or hand soap before reattaching it to lessen the friction when rotating it into locked position.

If you need to replace the pump, be sure to get the correct one for GWL10. A GWL08/GWL11/GWL15 pump WILL NOT work on a GWL10. SearsParts lists it at $54.99.