I seriously considered Omega before we decided to go with a local cabinet maker. I looked at Porch Swing and Smokey Hills. I think Smokey Hills is a rich saturated grey and Porch Swing is light, almost a white wash. Note: I do have a very bright kitchen. I would have gone with Smokey Hills. However I wanted a dark perimeter and a lighter island, whereas your second cabinet finish of walnut is also dark. You also said you love the richness of the brown. Do you want richness of brown and of grey? When you have looked at pictures of kitchens for inspiration have you loved kitchens with all dark cabinetry or with more contrast? Think about, not only the individual components, but also how they will play together in the complete tapestry you are creating. You said you have evolved from white, to cream to gray, it is great to recognize that. And perhaps since that seems to be an evolution of lighter shades maybe Porch Swing is correct for you. Or, maybe not. It might be time to throw out the walnut island. Maybe it should be a Smokey Hills perimeter with a Porch Swing island? Perhaps you should bring in the walnut as a countertop instead of as a cabinetry finish? Go back to your inspiration photos- not just for the exact finishes, but for the feel. Don't be afraid to stay the same, and don't be afraid to throw away anything. Sometimes the design doesn't feel right and you are working on the wrong component. I spent a lot of time worrying about if my kitchen would be too dark with the dark walnut cabinets I selected- when I finally threw out the butcher block top and decided to use my quartzite on both the island and the perimeter it all worked. Lots of fairly esoteric advice here I hope I haven't caused more confusion.

Matching a finish is tough. In my experience, which is also limited to that of an observer, it requires a piece of the actual wood, unfinished. The wood filler or putty for that particular wood, My DH made a gouge across the test piece & filled it. Then he sanded, and took different stains and tested them across the gouge until he'd mixed a great match. The thing is, he didn't say OK until he'd put a sealer coat on it, and finished that to the same burnish as the cabinet. If you have the money, either get someone in, who won't destroy good, well-made cabinets. Or take down a cabinet and take it to them to repair it. You could possibly ask to be shown how, but I don't how well that would go over. Did you ask on the woodworking forum? Good luck! Christine Formerly C F Muehling

sawdust maker, I am actually pretty handy. My family used to call me "Kelly Vila, this old townhouse" because I was a big DIYer in my last house. My question was more of "will this work? versus can I do it?" Thanks for the reply on the artist brushes. I know I have some of them around. The wax sticks sound like a great idea, too. linda, the good news is that it is not a factory finish. It was stained by a painter a month ago and he left me some stain for the door and the staircase. (The scratches are on the right on the lower half. I seem them very clearly in person. lol.) kmealy, thanks for the link. That is a great website. jon, sorry that you can relate. Hopefully, this will not happen very often. I usually keep the dogs in the lower level but I did not secure the doggie gate very well. We had a scratching incident on the old door but that was about four years ago. Thanks for all the replies and advice. Here is a pic of the devil. He looks like he feels bad doesn't he?

I typically finish the surface almost to the final coats without repairing the gouges and then use shellac sticks and even paint (japan colors) to make the repair. The last few coats of clear finish then crate a uniform surface sheen and protect teh repairs.