Glue or Float premium wide plank engineered hardwood floors?
Jackie Patterson Brenner
3 years ago
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engineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See MoreEngineered hardwood floor, float-in and room transition
Comments (3)SJ McCarthy, Oana, Thank you both. I did some more research, including calling Kahrs USA and a few local flooring companies. Here is what I learnt - - Kahrs customer service sounded fairly confidence that as long as my total dimension is within the numbers in that installation specification (40feet, 1/2 inch clearance at perimeter) no t-moulding is needed. - Local floor companies also expressed this(no t-moulding) isn't going to be a problem, as much as they are familiar with the business, they are not installation contractors. Then I sketched a my floor plan and drew expansion direction in each room and hallway. I have concluded this is going to be recipe for disaster, unless the expansion rate is really, really small, which i think isn't the case given the required 1/2 gap at the walls : - Assuming each area (rooms, hallway) expansion happens from center and towards walls, I'd have room expansion force, hallway expansion force going against each other at the door, given bedroom is much deeper, likely the stronger expansion force will push the boards in hallway towards the wall opposite of the bedroom, so the movement would be > 3x of the movement if hallway is expanding independently. - I have another room on the other side of the hallway, about 6 feet down, same thing would happen there, only on different side, this would push the hallway into a slight 'S' shape, which would be pretty visible given the hallway is pretty narrow. - Above only count for expansion perpendicular to board direction, the force along the board direction would also be different given hallway is much longer, it might not be a problem if the 'click lock' system allows adjacent board to 'slide' , but if that's not the case, the forces in my case, could rotate the boards at the door for contraction, things would be the same but at opposite direction. combine the seasonal expansion/contraction, my guess would be that in a couple of years I'd either see gaps between boards or the locking loosened. Now I understand why a expansion gap at the door is necessary, basically it absorb opposite movements in different directions. Given we don't want to see the speed bumps on our floor, looks like float-in installation isn't an option for us. Thanks! X.T....See MoreNail and glue 1/2" engineered 7" wide hardwood planks
Comments (7)Traditionally a nail-down "wide plank" hardwood receives "glue assist". That is to say glue is applied to the back of the planks and then nailed into place. Your problems will be SHRINKAGE due to VERY DRY conditions. A wide plank is VERY tricky to install in DRY climates such as yours. And to be clear, "wide" is anything 5" or wider. Your 7" wide planks are VERY wide. The wider the plank, the MORE it will shrink. The more it shrinks the bigger the gaps (where water and urine can fall into). The more it shrinks the unhappier you will be. A solid, narrow strip hardwood (such as 3" wide planks) would be the best option if you want wood. Some of the worst shrinkage/splitting/checking occurs in DRY climates. Humidity is SUCKED OUT of the wood so quickly it starts looking like 20 year old cedar shakes. Please check to see if you can ADD humidity to your entire home at the touch of a button (whole home humidifier). If you do not have this device, I highly recommend you purchase one. I would suspect $6K should get you what you need - but that number is highly dependent on size of your home and the type/size of your furnace/duct work....See MoreSite Stained Nail Down vs Site Stained Glue Down Engineered Hardwood
Comments (9)If you are on slab, I'm not sure what you would be nailing TO. Adding in a sleeper subfloor would be very expensive and will still require a vapour barrier underneath. *Technically a glue down SOLID hardwood can be done on slab - but it isn't recommended unless your HIGH END flooring installer has done it successfully in the past. A glue down engineered floor is technically "more stable" in the widths they are suggesting, but I would question a comparison to a 2.25" solid hardwood. Especially if the solid NARROW strip hardwoods are rift or quarter sawn. The same adhesive would be used regardless of plank structure (solid vs. engineered). The RIGHT adhesive (aka. EXPENSIVE glue) MUST be used over slab in TX. And then the proper SPREAD RATE must be used (lots and lots of the expensive glue will be required) as well as the PROPER TROWEL profile/depth will be required. These expensive adhesives ($100/gallon is common) will achieve 30-50sf per gallon. These adhesives will be the vapour barrier. The most expensive ones will have "limitless" moisture content as one of their key features. Even with the TOP adhesives, the installation will still be cheaper than a sleeper subfloor + nail down installation. The sleeper subfloor would mean a lower priced flooring professional can be hired to achieve the nail-down installation. The glue down method will require the higher skilled professional with all the knowledge required to install a glue down wood floor PROPERLY. And the next issue is the HVAC system. Regardless of the installation method, your HVAC will have to have the ability to maintain a CONSISTANT level of humidity. Sometimes A/C isn't enough in high-humidity environments. Sometimes a whole-home dehumidifier is required in extreme humid areas. Please review your HVAC system's abilities to TIGHTLY control humidity (somewhere around 40% is PERFECT...and it must be maintained 24/7 for the next 25-60 years). Start there. Spend more money for the upgrade on the HVAC system so you can have the wood floors - regardless of width/composition....See MoreJackie Patterson Brenner
3 years agoUser
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agoJackie Patterson Brenner
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years ago
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SJ McCarthy